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New garage build thoughts/help/costs

stangman39

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
65
Location
GA
Hi all,

Hope everyone is having a good Friday.

Last week we closed on our new house with 2.5 acres! We've been looking for over a year for a suitable house with suitable land to build a shop on for some of my classic cars. Renting space and being away from home on the weekends got to be too much!
The property has a current detached 24x30 shop and I'm waiting to expand onto it or put a new bld next to it etc.
I'd like to do at least 2000sq ft. Ideally 40x60 or 50x50.
The existing shop has water/bathroom, electric and heat.

The warehouse space I currently rent, the landlord was in contstruction before he retired and his son is handling the business. I'm looking to just get the bld up, no electric, nothing done inside tc. They worked me up a quote for a 50x50 top of the line metal bld with red steel supports etc., 2 12' roll up doors, insulation, sky lights, 6" slab, gutters and down spouts.
I think they said the bld alone before shipping was around $18K. $7500 to build it, concrete etc. etc. They had a total of around $48K. I've asked for a detailed breakdown.
I've called some other metal bld places and they said that quote is high.
Grading is minimal.

Trying to get some thoughts or ideas to try to find a way to see if I can get my costs down. This is a bld and property I plan to be on a long time and I've been told a good metal bld will be better than a pole barn etc. I'm 40mins north of Atlanta in GA.

Thanks for the thoughts!
 
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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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10,726
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SE Michigan
With termites being active in that part of the world, I'd favor a metal building also.

The concrete prep is not trivial with that building, the anchor bolt placement has to be nearly perfect, and there are large piers and grade beams which are hidden under the floor, that support the column loads.

Also, there's a lot of labor in assembling the building, once the concrete work is done.

I think you need HVAC....especially the AC part. In the winter you can probably work in a sweatshirt and not worry too much, if it gets sunny during the day (which it does a lot) you will pickup heat. However its going to be really hard to work inside one in the summer with no AC...they get stifling hot.

Best way to sort out is to get different quotes, and try to understand, in detail, why they are different. Just to add your 2000sf concrete @ 6" (this is flat slab only, is around 37 yards of concrete. If you use my simple method, multiply by $100/yd and by 3 to include the prep and labor, you get something around $11k). I'm guessing you will be closer to 50-60yd of concrete by the time the piers & beams are formed, etc, so if you add in $15k for concrete, $18k for the building, and $7.5k to erect it, there isn't a lot of extra room in the quote for things like excavation, renting a scissor lift, running temporary power...etc etc etc. The builder has to make some profit to keep his business sustainable.
 
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homebuilt burner

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Dec 8, 2014
Messages
1,763
Location
central Wisconsin
When my father built his shop in '05 the original quote was 50k for ground work, building , concrete, and labor. It ended up closer to 60k by the time it was done. 35x45x16 The pricing included no electrical plumbing or heating. So I would say that number is pretty close, but I would check around.
 
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stangman39

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
65
Location
GA
Thanks for the info.
I'm gonna shop around and get some more quotes.
One main reason for the move to the new house was so I could have my cars at home and stop paying monthly rental fees.
However, don't think a $50K build in the cards financially right now.
May have to look into a hybrid pole barn or regular pole barn if I can't get the costs for a metal bld down.

The breakdown for the earlier quote I received is as follows:
(doesn't include grading)
foundation plan $500
slab $12500
bld with gutters $17300
overhead doors $2000
erection $7500
insulation $2500
tax $875
overhead $4317.50
total $47492.50
 

thomasj1

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2015
Messages
19
Yea, the best way to get costs down is to get the input and quotes from several contractors. We've done something similar and I was surprised by the difference in price quoted by different contractors.
 
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stangman39

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Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
65
Location
GA
Updating this thread.

I've decided to go with a 40x50 steel bld.
I'm attaching a pic aeriel of my property. The plan is to use the exisiting detached shop as the short side of an "L" and add the new bld as the long part of the L going towads the back of the property. the 40" side of the bld going left to right and 50" side north south.
In my attached pic the red lines are where I plan to put the 1 14x14 garage door and also the regular entry door. Blue line is where we plan to extend the driveway.
Right now the plan is to have the back side of the existing bld visible thru the new bld. There is an entry door on the back side of the existing shop and that will be used to go from one bld to the other. Not sure structurally down the line if I can remove part of the back all of the existing bld to make them more "one"

The utility company won't mark lines on the area were are going to build since it is behind the meters. Private companies want $500 to mark the lines! So we're gonna take our changes and either find the water lines when grading for the slab or get lucky! I know where the power line comes into the existing bld.

Thanks for any thoughts.
 

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matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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Personally I wouldn't want to stack the buildings up like that. Lot of detail work in connecting them.

Id attempt to put the new one at the end of the long axis of the driveway. Unless you are absolutely boxed in by property lines and easements.
 
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stangman39

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Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
65
Location
GA
Personally I wouldn't want to stack the buildings up like that. Lot of detail work in connecting them.

I'd attempt to put the new one at the end of the long axis of the driveway. Unless you are absolutely boxed in by property lines and easements.

I don't know if I have enough room to put it at the end of the drive for a few reasons. 1 being propery line and setbacks. The other is there is also about a 3-4ft berm at the back of the drive so I'd either have to make a retaining wall or stick the bld up past the berm further back...then I'd have the berm as an incline getting up and down into the new bld. The idea for connecting the 2 was to make the permitting process easier and also not have to run new utilities. The existing shop already has water, gas and electric.
 
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stangman39

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
65
Location
GA
I'm planning to do 4 skylights.
1 walk in door on the back side
1 14x12 rollup door
For air curculation I figured I'd get some big fans.
I also may add AC to the existing building since it already has heat. Then I can add some vents into the new bld for cooling.

I decided to go against 2 3x5 sliding windows to save some $. Is this a mistake? Would cost about $1000 extra total for 2 windows/installed.
 
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