New Garage Build - Thoughts?

[cdnhawk]

Hello all,

Long time browser/reader and taking all the suggestions in from all of the great garage builds out there.

I have been working on a design with a local drafter, here is what I am building:

Garage Size - 20x30
12ft Ceiling to accommodate 2 post hoist
Storage area above for all kinds of goodies

What I would love your suggestions/opinions on is the overall layout of the prelims that were recently shared with me.

1) Garage Door - Current size in drawings I feel should be 12w x 9h as I don't want a tight squeeze in any vehicles in the future

2) Roof Pitch - Does this seem to be too little or does it matter (I am located in Ontario Canada)

These are really early days and totally open to your ideas.

Thanks so much.

Jason

 

[brownbagg]

20x30 is really small. need at least 24 x 30 to work on one car
stem wall at least one course, alot of dirt get at the bottom of the wall, its nice to hose it out,
floor drain, yes
if you do any body work, you need pull points in slab

 

[anomm701]

What are your plans for the garage? Wood work? Vehicle shop? Storage?

 

[Steve in UT]

That's a shed! Go 32'X32' 10/12 roof with spread web trusses. 10'h x 12w doors. If you have to go single bay 24'x32' is min. JMHO.

 

[cdnhawk]

20x30 is really small. need at least 24 x 30 to work on one car
stem wall at least one course, alot of dirt get at the bottom of the wall, its nice to hose it out,
floor drain, yes
if you do any body work, you need pull points in slab

Thanks for your suggestions, unfortunately 20x30 is likely my max size due to my location.
Floor drain is an excellent idea, I will have to look on regulations on adding this in
No body work for me

Since my primary use of the hoist will be a mix of storage/ atv maintenance I was considering a 4 post hoist, but that might take up floor space.

 

[cdnhawk]

That's a shed! Go 32'X32' 10/12 roof with spread web trusses. 10'h x 12w doors. If you have to go single bay 24'x32' is min. JMHO.

Thanks Steve, I wish I could go bigger to be honest. Cant due to size of property (Residential). Door size makes sense to me as well though. Roof trusses was planning on scissor style to get max height of interior. Assuming that is the same reference as web trusses?

 

[cdnhawk]

What are your plans for the garage? Wood work? Vehicle shop? Storage?

It would be a storage for 1 car and working space for ATV maintenance.

 

[CraigStu]

- Be sure you check carefully on code requirements for a floor drain. I believe there are many areas that do not allow them at all. Some will require an elaborate septic (probably not the correct term) because they don't want shop fluids draining into the ground.
- I'd go up to 10/12 on the roof for more storage room. It makes for a little more work but not a big deal unless building this yourself.
- I like your idea on the garage door size. I would however check to see if there is a more common that is close which may reduce cost some
- I strongly prefer 2 post lifts for everything except more or less permanent storage.
- You can go w/ a mix of truss designs. Something like scissor or cambered for where the lift will be and attic or common (storage rated) for the rest.

https://www.constructiontuts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Roof-Truss-Types.jpg

 

[dougf]

I have a 20x30 and really wish it was deeper. If you are limited to square footage play around with the depth for a little more room to work on stuff, 24x26 or something similar.

 

[cdnhawk]

Thanks Craig, yes I hear the same before about the floor drains. Especially in my area.

• Appreciate the suggestion on the roof pitch change, I am going to make that update!
• Going to research about the garage door more, it is a good point. Especially I would prefer to get something that is somewhat insulated vs just a steel roll up door.
• Yes I have read quite a bit about the 2 post lifts, it seems I might to move to a 4 post as it would be better safe than sorry
• Actually that is exactly what i am doing with the truss setup. Scissor style trusses for the majority of the roof, then attic style for the mezzanine area. Appreciate that link

- Be sure you check carefully on code requirements for a floor drain. I believe there are many areas that do not allow them at all. Some will require an elaborate septic (probably not the correct term) because they don't want shop fluids draining into the ground.
- I'd go up to 10/12 on the roof for more storage room. It makes for a little more work but not a big deal unless building this yourself.
- I like your idea on the garage door size. I would however check to see if there is a more common that is close which may reduce cost some
- I strongly prefer 2 post lifts for everything except more or less permanent storage.
- You can go w/ a mix of truss designs. Something like scissor or cambered for where the lift will be and attic or common (storage rated) for the rest.

https://www.constructiontuts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Roof-Truss-Types.jpg

 

[cdnhawk]

I have a 20x30 and really wish it was deeper. If you are limited to square footage play around with the depth for a little more room to work on stuff, 24x26 or something similar.

The depth would be 30' which would be sufficient and actually the max for my property. I cant go wider as it would run into existing structures (want to keep it a separate building from house)

 

[billconner]

I'm in midst of a diy 28 x 32 and using rafters, not trusses. Simpler, less expenseive, more clear space.

I also wonder if steel beam is worth it/necessary. You could look at an lvl, or consider a pair of columns - 12 or so feet clear between.

I whole heartedly support the curb or stem wall concept. I'd like a foot minimum between siding and wood frame and ground or slab floor.

A few more windows would probably look better in a residential neighborhood.

 

[cdnhawk]

I'm in midst of a diy 28 x 32 and using rafters, not trusses. Simpler, less expenseive, more clear space.

I also wonder if steel beam is worth it/necessary. You could look at an lvl, or consider a pair of columns - 12 or so feet clear between.

I whole heartedly support the curb or stem wall concept. I'd like a foot minimum between siding and wood frame and ground or slab floor.

A few more windows would probably look better in a residential neighborhood.

@billconner thanks for your ideas.

• Will touch base with drafter about the alternative to the steel beam
• Stem wall concept, for all four walls of the concrete? Any particular reason why, is it just more support? Forgive my lack of knowledge here. I understand the concept of distribution of weight vs the slab approach
• Noted about the windows, one side faces the neighbours so that will be denied by the city. Back has one at the top where the storage area is, side has one. Your feedback does make sense, perhaps there is room for another window (taking that idea back)

 

[billconner]

Stem walk or curb - just to keep wood above ground. Maybe you are showing it already, hard to see on phone. I'd minimum 12" above slab. That's all.

You can't have windows facing neighbor? What am I missing? Are you so close to lot line that fire is an issue?

 

[quickfarms]

Current shop is 24x34 with 16x12 foot door and that is too small

New shop will be 35x60 with two 16x14 foot doors and a 12x14 foot door

Bigger is better, with your location I would make the roof pitch steep and add a storage loft

 

[brownbagg]

i dont like windows in a shop, dont need anybody eyeballing my stuff when Im not home

 

[CraigStu]

I am w/ Bill on stem wall or curb. I see you are in Canada so I don't know what codes are like there but...I have done an add-on bay twice now. The foundation for both was concrete footers a little below frost depth and then block up 2-3 courses above the finished floor level. My contractors both said block is less expensive than wood. So for my 10ft ceiling, we did approximately 2 feet of block and then standard 8ft stick wall. The slab was poured inside the block wall and was nearly the last step of the build. Like Bill says, wood is way above the ground on the outside and inside you have the ability to hose the whole thing down if needed. No you don't need a drain, just need one of these

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200416624_200416624?cm_mmc=Bing-pla&utm_source=Bing_PLA&utm_medium=Cleaning%20%2B%20Janitorial%20%3E%20Mops%20%2B%20Squeegees&utm_campaign=Libman&utm_content=132396&cmpid=268457878&agid=1176477826230708&tgtid=pla-4577129469598682&prdid=132396&msclkid=48f22326ba261153f0984027ddb8f060&gclid=48f22326ba261153f0984027ddb8f060&gclsrc=3p.ds

 

[dcg9381]

i dont like windows in a shop, dont need anybody eyeballing my stuff when Im not home

I'm more worried about the tax-man taking a look inside and billing me for "residential space"..

Windows are a good idea, just put them substantially above eyeball height.

 

[anomm701]

I'm more worried about the tax-man taking a look inside and billing me for "residential space"..

Windows are a good idea, just put them substantially above eyeball height.

In my county if you own a llc they can assess your property at whatever amount but since you're a business owner they won't raise your property taxes. There might be a loophole in your tax code it might be worth checking out however I'm in a township not a city