New Garage Build-What Am I Missing?

[OGJordan]

So we relocate with work every 2-4 years. We are currently in the midst of moving to Northern Alabama. Found a house, but it only has a 2 car attached and it's way too small. It's a brand new house that's been sitting for a bit, so the builder wants to move it. The neighborhood has some room $-wise, so we are doing to add a detached and roll it into the new home price. When we get relocated, our company gives us 90 days to sell, then gives us appraised value on a home and takes it over; so we're not worried about losing any $; this is our 6th move so we kind of have it down.

Anyway, I meet with the builder tomorrow to discuss the garage which they will start on as soon as the concrete guys get out there. We close in 45 days so they have to get on it quickly-if the house isn't 100% finished we can't close.

I'm gonna do a 24w x 32deep; 9' ceilings.

- Must be bricked to match the the house, and will sit close to the house (2') on the opposite side of the attached garage.

- Will have a double door (16') on the 24' side.

- The 32' sides will have 3 windows on one side, one window and a man door on the other; nothing on the back wall.

- Drywalled like an attached with light insulation. May add some A/C at some point but unlikely

- 5 outlets on each of the long walls around 3 feet high. A couple of double outlets on the back wall at bench height.

- 220v outlet in each back corner, one for a compressor the other for a welder.

- 6 t8 fixtures in the ceiling.

- No need for water out there.

- Smoothed concrete that I will epoxy later myself.

- 1 light on each side of the garage door outside (sconces to match the lights on the house)


What am I missing????

 

[devoncoolman]

10,000 lb rotary 2post lift should round it out nicely.

 

[onefastermonte85]

Idk if a two post will fit with a 9ft wall

 

[devoncoolman]

Your not getting a 10,000 lb lift in there but they do make low clearence 7&8k lb lifts. Any way. Ur list seems pretty good. I personally would want my ceiliengs atleast 12-14ft but my uses im sure are completly different then urs.

 

[larry_g]

Me I would want a welder outlet near the door to weld on projects outside.

That said I don't know what else your missing because I don't know the purpose of the building. Car parking, car building, wood working, fab work welding up ??? . I'll bet your not working on trucks and tractors so what I need would not suit you.


lg
no neat sig line

 

[OGJordan]

I build cars, main purpose for my shops. I don't like welding outside unless I HAVE to; and if that comes up I have a 110V I can take out on an extension cord. And I had a lift in one house and to be honest, I'd rather have the floor space than have to work around it. I can't imagine ever having one again; I definitely won't ever buy one again. Maybe if it was there when I moved in..... But I'm talking about the basic structure of the garage, not any extras.

 

[Bear]

- 5 outlets on each of the long walls around 3 feet high. A couple of double outlets on the back wall at bench height.

More outlets @ 4' ( 3' is bench height - they need to be a bit higher)

 

[OGJordan]

Couple of pics of type of work I do

 

[OGJordan]

- 5 outlets on each of the long walls around 3 feet high. A couple of double outlets on the back wall at bench height.

More outlets @ 4' ( 3' is bench height - they need to be a bit higher)

Good advice! Thanks, wasn't even thinking of that.

 

[rsanter]

Install several outlets in the ceiling so you can install drop cords.
I hate walking on extension cords
Think about a little shed off the back of the garage to house the compressor or frame it into the corner like an exterior access hot water closet

220 outlet mid location on each side wall

Install the sissor or vaulted type trusses so,you have a little more headroom. Or just go to 12ft walls

Bob

 

[OGJordan]

Thanks for the suggestions. Just wondering, why do you guys need such high ceilings?

 

[larry_g]

Thanks for the suggestions. Just wondering, why do you guys need such high ceilings?

Looking at your pictures above I have to ask, how do your get the bodys off the frames? The high ceiling allows for some type of over head hoist. For me its to get tractors in and have room to lift heavy parts out.

I would have you consider putting some pull pots in the floor. If you do heavy lifting and do not want a lift then consider a beam in the ceiling that will allow you to have lift ring or two to hang a winch from. Much easier than getting friends to do the lifting.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[OGJordan]

Just a normal jack and jackstands. Throw a couple of long 4x4 under the body.

 

[PanelDeland]

I would want at least an outside hose bib. Comes in really handy for rinsing off parts and detail work. I would also consider an outside electrical outlet on at least one side. Have some support built in for storage in the attic and a lift system to get stuff up there. If you have the chance, stub in water and sewer for the garage, it'll be a good selling point even if you don't add a bath.

 

[abachman]

I went with an 18x8ft garage door and absolutely think it is great. The added height is good to get in and out as is the added width, especially if one car is already parked in the garage.

 

[OGJordan]

So I got my quote back.

-24'x32'
-16'x8' garage door
-32" man door
-3 windows
-Fully drywalled/insulated walls and ceiling
-14 120V outlets
-2 220V outlets
-6 T8 fixtures
-2 outside sconses
-full bricked exterior to match house
-10' wide parking pad beside garage
-50' of 10'w driveway with a culvert under it that opens to 20' at the garage

3 week build time.

$29,750....if you add in the driveway and parking pad cost thats $38/ft of finished garage.

Sounds great to me, seem like a good price? It's an add on from the builder, so it's a take it or leave it. If I don't do it, then I'll have to contract it all myself later and fund it, this way it's rolled into the house cost.

 

[mikeburris]

I would go with the 18ft door also

 

[TTA89]

So I got my quote back.

-24'x32'
-16'x8' garage door
-32" man door
-3 windows
-Fully drywalled/insulated walls and ceiling
-14 120V outlets
-2 220V outlets
-6 T8 fixtures
-2 outside sconses
-full bricked exterior to match house
-10' wide parking pad beside garage
-50' of 10'w driveway with a culvert under it that opens to 20' at the garage

3 week build time.

$29,750....if you add in the driveway and parking pad cost thats $38/ft of finished garage.

Sounds great to me, seem like a good price? It's an add on from the builder, so it's a take it or leave it. If I don't do it, then I'll have to contract it all myself later and fund it, this way it's rolled into the house cost.

I'm looking at doing something similar and have 3 bids for about the same thing between 55-60K. Where do you live?

 

[Tempest 455]

More than anything, research the builder thoroughly!

 

[OGJordan]

We will be spending 2 years in northern Alabama for work. Things are very cheap there compared to the Northeast....well anywhere really lol.

 

[Nuts]

I like a couple of I beams flush with the floor, good attachment point for straightening frames and the like. Don't forget to put in a ground attachment to the rails for your welder.

Nuts

 

[tomshep]

Maybe some floored attic storage and stairs up there?

I would go an 18' door. I would also add one 220 by the garage door.

Did you ask if he is running a sub-panel for you electric? That way your garage is on a "dedicated" circuit.

For that price, I would go for it. It should have have some sort of warranty, depending on your state, through the builder.

As someone that has corporate relo experience, adding in upgrades in the actual purchase price can sometimes get you more coverage on guarantee-on-loss packages versus adding it after purchase from your pocket.

Tom

 

[spoonymooncalf]

Flat Roof Non-Attached Garage w/ Deck On Top

I'm new to this site. Thanks to all contributors. Great stuff on here. I've had a look for info on this topic, couldn't find anything. I have ltd. deck space in the yard (town lot), so am considering this idea for on top of a not yet built 600 sq ft shop, probably 1/2 or 1/3 the area to be a deck, the rest a regular roof. I hope to break ground in the next couple wks. I'm in central BC, Canada where we get pretty frigid winters... Thanks in advance for any tips