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New garage floor slope questions

youwish2bme

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Clayton, NC
Guys, I've seen from reading old threads that 1/4" per 4' is pretty normal. What about from side to side? I have about an 1" of slope towards the center of the door. I have always thought the sill (where the garage door sits on the concrete) should be level? Is that not correct? Thanks

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pattenp

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Virginia - USA
Not considering floors sloped for center floor drains, most I've seen are either just flat or flat side to side with a slope down from rear to front for drainage out the car door. The floor at the door is flat/level for the door to seal when closed.
 
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youwish2bme

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That's what I thought I have about 2" of slope from the sides towards the middle. Then a total of almost 4" in 15'

This *****....

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7th Kahuna

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I have never seen that either. Back to front sure, but not sides to middle. Do other homes in your area have the same design? Assuming there are no cracks, my guess would be someone either made a mistake or had a specific goal in mind but didn't think it entirely through. 2 inches is a lot in any case. Sound like you may have a project on your hands. Has the garage door been custom fit?
 

7th Kahuna

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Check the foundation plans, if they exist. It's probably fixable either way, but it would be good to know where you stand with respect to the plans. I have no idea where you live and no clue whether inspections were required, etc.
 
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youwish2bme

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Unfortunately there is nothing in the plans that specifies what was expected. I told them I wanted a half of a brick of fall from the back half to the front and it's very uneven as it relates to the slope.. I'm more than a little frustrated..

I live near Raleigh, NC...


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7th Kahuna

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Is the slope not even addressed in the notes? There must be something. It's odd to me, living here in California where everything seems to be spelled out, to continue to hear about places where the permit is basically for the garage and the contractor seems to be responsible for determining how it is built. There is another similar thread going right now for a garage where the foundation retaining wall is failing. That one seems to be working out in the owner's favor. If you have a local planning department or Dept of Building and Safety, etc., I might call (or go) and see if I could talk to someone and get an official comment as to whether this construction falls within the range of what they consider acceptable or normal. In other words, you need to determine, one way or another, whether you have any recourse with the contractor. At the very least I'm assuming there is an issue with the garage door. If you reach an end, having exhausted all your other options, you most likely could pour a self leveling slurry over the existing floor then cut the driveway back from the opening and repour to the new floor level. The slurry should bond well as long as you have kept the existing slab fairly clean and free of oil, etc.
 
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7th Kahuna

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You mention that it is uneven, I wonder if the floor was poured hot (starting to set up) and the slopes were the result of the limited work time? Another possibility is that they set the screed boards wrong. The more I think about it, the more certain I am that they fouled up the pour. They just happened to be able to make it smooth and figured they could convince you that you got what you ordered. Any pictures?
 
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youwish2bme

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I think that my only recourse is to saw cut back beyond where the slope begins and repour the concrete. While expensive I'm not going to be happy with the current situation. The building being 26 wide and 36 deep this is in the front 15 feet that there is 3 3/4" of fall towards the door and there is over an 1" from side to side.

Here is a pic to show the slope from side to side..



 

7th Kahuna

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Well, that's not as bad as the mental picture, but I wouldn't be happy with it either. I don't understand 3.75" of fall in the first 15' unless they anticipated an issue with water sheeting toward the garage. 1/4" per foot of fall is ideal for drain lines and certain exterior paving but inside the garage 1/8" would have been fine. Personally, my biggest issue would be the slope to center, the result being a door that doesn't seal properly.

If you were to repour, I wonder if the full 15' would be necessary. How far back would you need to go before the centerline elevation was the same as the elevation at either corner of the garage door? Reach that point then continue until you have another 3/4" or so of rise and that might just be your cut line. It wouldn't be perfect but it would be better. It would also save you having to adjust the door jambs and possibly rehang the door.

Just a thought, not sure it would work, not sure I'd be happy with that either.
 

metalhead212121

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maybe... just maybe... this thread will help you

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117543

took me a while to find it but I KNEW I posted on a thread like yours. I like you STILL (AFTER ALL THESE YEARS) hate looking at the gap that I have.

After all these years STILL say to myself I can either pound it all up (again), try what others posted in the thread I posted, OR live with it as is.

Please keep us posted as to what you decide to do.
 
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youwish2bme

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Here is what the slope looks like from running a string line and measuring down to it to determine what the fall is..

 

Flexia

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Akron/Canton Ohio
I would stress to them that the door doesn't seal right because of the bad concrete. It looks like it takes a lot of force to get the door down. That weather strip is completely smashed on the sides. It ***** that you keep having issues with your build.
 
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youwish2bme

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Update... We were able to come to an agreement where I pay for half the concrete and he will provide the labor to remove and pour it again.


Hitch
 
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