New garage going up 30x40x10

[CVPIJoe]

Hey guys,
Been reading on here a long time and decided to make a post.
I am building a new 30x40x10 stick built garage in NE Ohio. Due to township zoning i was faced with some difficulties. I originally was planning for a 40x60x12 but the township would not allow it. They settled on what I am building now.
The garage will have a 5:12 roof pitch
Cathedral ceilings inside with scissor trusses (needed to go this route for height)
2x6 walls fully insulated
walls will be covered in plywood and ceiling in sheetrock
100 amp panel
full hvac system
20x9' garage OH door with jackshaft opener
I think that is all the big stuff.
My plans were all drawn and then we ran into some hurtles with installing a lift. Being that I can only do 10' walls due to zoning, the lift will be placed in between trusses and the post will be boxed around with drywall. That will also mean the lift needs to be centered. So i changed from two garage doors down to one large one.
I buy and sell former police cars and emergency equipment so that is my main reason for the garage. It cost me much more then i had planned but it will be worth it to have my shop at my house. Right now i have a 16x50 shop but it is 45 min away.
I will update with the progress, and any tips will be appreciated!

 

[rok_hunter]

Congrats on getting started! With 10' walls, what do you anticipate being able to put on the lift? It's easy for me to assume you've already thought of that but it's also an easy oversight when you're excited about a build. I've got a friend that put a 4-post in his home garage, 8' or 9' ceiling, and he can only put a low-profile car (sedan, 'vette, etc.) on it to raise, and then only enough to get under it on a chair.

For insulation are you looking batts, or foam? I've got closed cell foam on my 2x6 walls, the sound insulation ***** but temp regulation is on point.

Ditto for HVAC - full system like you'd see on a house, or mini-split? My 30x40x12 in Florida has the mini and so far has done a fine job keeping the building cool. We dont get as cold as ohio but the humidity makes 20° absolutely miserable - we'll see how the heat function does then.

For power, some say "you can never have too many outlets". Buddy of mine took that approach and laments that so many of them are behind stuff and unusable. I went with about every 8-9 feet, depending on stud placement, and every 5 feet over my workbench. I also planned a 220v outlet where I expect to add a welder, and put a single exterior outlet centered on each wall. For lighting I put two rows of lights, one at the "front" and one at the "back" of the shop, each on a separate switch. That lets me use the lights where I'm working, or light up the whole thing when I'm moving around. An LED motion-sensing light (also on a switch if I want it on continuously) above my drive-in door handles the exterior illumination. Side note - deciding on my lighting setup was the single hardest part of my build.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[CVPIJoe]

Congrats on getting started! With 10' walls, what do you anticipate being able to put on the lift? It's easy for me to assume you've already thought of that but it's also an easy oversight when you're excited about a build. I've got a friend that put a 4-post in his home garage, 8' or 9' ceiling, and he can only put a low-profile car (sedan, 'vette, etc.) on it to raise, and then only enough to get under it on a chair.

For insulation are you looking batts, or foam? I've got closed cell foam on my 2x6 walls, the sound insulation ***** but temp regulation is on point.

Ditto for HVAC - full system like you'd see on a house, or mini-split? My 30x40x12 in Florida has the mini and so far has done a fine job keeping the building cool. We dont get as cold as ohio but the humidity makes 20° absolutely miserable - we'll see how the heat function does then.

For power, some say "you can never have too many outlets". Buddy of mine took that approach and laments that so many of them are behind stuff and unusable. I went with about every 8-9 feet, depending on stud placement, and every 5 feet over my workbench. I also planned a 220v outlet where I expect to add a welder, and put a single exterior outlet centered on each wall. For lighting I put two rows of lights, one at the "front" and one at the "back" of the shop, each on a separate switch. That lets me use the lights where I'm working, or light up the whole thing when I'm moving around. An LED motion-sensing light (also on a switch if I want it on continuously) above my drive-in door handles the exterior illumination. Side note - deciding on my lighting setup was the single hardest part of my build.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Thank you for the reply !
So here it my thought, correct me if I am wrong. Where the 2 post lift corners are that are being boxed in, the ceiling is about 11’4”
So we are only off a little bit and being that the 12’ high that the lift is, the car cannot go over that without hitting the roof of the vehicle on the support bar on top, I don’t see it interfering with a vehicle being all the way up. But like I said I could be wrong on that.

As far as insulation they are using r-21 in the walls and r-38 in the ceiling.

I thought about the mini split because I have ready great things. But I decided on a full house system.

Good tip on the outlets. No need if you can’t use them.
Lighting was a big concern for me as well. I plan on running 3 rows of 4’ t8 4 bulb fixtures with leds in them. I hope that will be plenty bright enough

 

[BORING HOP YARD]

I went with a 4 gang plugs every 48 inches and have never thought that was too many.
I can think of several times I have ran 2-3 extension cords to the project I'm working on. Most of the time its when I have a project on the lift.

I would also recommend running conduit to any future or "maybe" future needs.
I plan on extending my shop 30 feet so I ran a branch out to that end of the shop before I covered everything up.
Plan out you 220 needs, in my shop I have 2 places I can plug in my welder, one in the middle and on by the big door.
I also use a 30 foot long extension cord for my welders so I can reach everywhere in my shop or 15 feet out the front of my shop. My 220 circuits Hot tub, milling machine, lathe, lift, heat in the office, compressor, welder outlets
My lights are LED with three switches that control front, middle and back.
I also have a white metal ceiling, The LEDs are great!
I have 200 amps in the shop, my box is almost full.