New Garage in Virginia

[pops98]

After going through the zoning commision and getting turned down for not being able to prove a hardship, I asked the zoning Dept. what was the appeal procedure. They said of I could attach the garage to my house via a breezway, I could build the garage without any variences at all.

So I am ready to get started with the garage and modifications to my house.
I will be building a 36x30 garage and I have a few questions

Which is better, a footer with block foundation or a monolothic pour?
what about the temp? would it be better to go footer and build and close in, and pour the floor after the garage is built?

What is the normal cost per foot for garage construction?

Building in Portsmouth Virginia
Thanks for any info I am sure many of you can answer these questions with sound logic

 

[g17jimmy]

I built a 30x30 pole barn(with a 10x30 lean to on one side, total 1200sqft structure, 900 enclosed) Right now I've spent ~$25000, and have just a bit more wiring to do. Overall, including the porch, about $23/sqft.

I have a friend in Charlotte, NC that spent about $38/sqft on a 36x30 detached garage, with a brick face/vinyl sides. His attic area can be finished to make a room at some point.

 

[Pure Oil]

Hi, in your part of the country don't they normaly do a footer and then pour? Out West here the monolothic pour is very common. Next, are you thinking of building it out of block? or wood frame? if wood frame, 2"x6" (nice and stout) or 2"x4" (cheaper)? or a combination wall of both? 8 ft sidewalls or 10 ft sidewalls? (that extra headroom sure is nice).

 

[WickBuildings]

We have a dealer near your area that can assist you with your building needs. If you are interested in more info let me know. 803-260-3258 (Wick Buildings). Check us out on line at Wickbuildings.com

 

[dipper]

The nice part about pouring the floor after the building is weather tight is that it allows the soil to compact better. There is also less chance of the slab getting messed up from rain when you pour. I did a poured footer and block wall from 48" below grade for my build. It's pretty much what is required in my area of NY.

 

[MXtras]

Howdy, Pops! I am in your neck of the woods, right around the corners from the sound of it.

Can't answer your specific questions about construction costs unless you do it yourself - then you pretty much determine the cost based on the level of finish. Concrete cost is up there - I think it's still around $100/SqYd + installation.

Personally, I like a few rows of block around the base. It gets the sole plate up a little further away from the termites and gives you more ceiling height while building with stud length boards.

Scott

 

[Kevin54]

Personally, I like a few rows of block around the base. It gets the sole plate up a little further away from the termites and gives you more ceiling height while building with stud length boards.

Exactly. With a monolithic pour, any water on the inside has a chance to wick up thru your bottom plate. With block, your walls are up off of the floor. So you eliminate any chance of water to the bottom plate, water wicking up the insulation, etc.

Kevin

 

[5wndwcpe]

A 30x60 building has a pretty good size slab. One thing you may wish to consider is access for the flatwork once the building is up. I opted to erect the structure and then pour the slab. Because of this, I have to pump the concrete in due to the length of the building. I chose this route mainly though because I had wanted all of the fill to be compacted/settled to my liking and on my time table, not the masons.

Also, if you go with footers, have the excavator hog the holes out wide enough to install your perimeter drain next to the footers, not on top. Have your mason use forms for the footers. Yes, it's more work, but you'll have a nice level foundation to work off of. DAMHIK.