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New Garage, New Start

FarmerPete

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2013
Messages
258
Location
Lansing, MI
Bought a new house, so I'm starting from scratch. I'm not a heavy user, just a DIY guy who likes to tinker here and there. My biggest loads will be the occasional power tool/saw, a small 4-5 gallon compressor, and a chest freezer. The new attached garage has two pathetic outlets, neither is where I want them, and it's drywalled. :-( In my old garage, I had 16 20 amp outlets on 4 circuits, two 50 amp plugs, and 5 shop lights wired on the ceiling. I definitely went overboard with the old garage for my needs, but it was fun and I learned a lot.

I'm trying to keep things simple-ish with the new house. As I see it, I have two(ish) options.

1) Run new wires from the panel. It would need a good 75-100 feet or more of wire, but the basement ceiling is open. The shared wall with the basement is where I would want my workbench and the new outlets anyways. I'd have to deal with insulated walls and breaking the fire barrier between the house and garage, but if I did it well, I might be able to do very little/no damage to the drywall. Only extra frustrating bit is that the open bay basement ceiling was spray painted black. Running new wires will stick out like crazy. Might have to paint them black since I don't think 12/2 romex comes in black.

2) Just tap into the current circuit going to the garage. I don't use that much power and running a ton of electrical would be costly and unnecessary. I could run the lines from the current outlet along the wall to where I want my workbench and freezer to go. I could either use a saw to cut a stripe in the drywall to route all the wires, or I could go outside the walls with some conduit and surface mounted boxes.

With my old garage, I ran a sub panel and had open stud walls, so running a **** load of electrical was fairly easy. Working with drywalled walls certainly complicates things.
 
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u2slow

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Messages
3,584
Location
BC
Freezer circuits are a pet peeve of mine. I like them dedicated, or with a commonly used light on them for a 'tell'. You don't want to lose a freezer-load of food over a nuisance trip.

For the effort of running something back to main panel, you might as well run a 30-60amp feeder and a small sub in the garage. Surface mount the panel and a couple circuits in conduit. Plus you have some kind of 240V available for future.
 
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FarmerPete

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2013
Messages
258
Location
Lansing, MI
The new house is out in the country, and while the electric is fairly reliable, being on a well has gotten me looking to hard-wire a generator in one way or another. At my old house, having half of my important circuits on a remote sub panel made feeding my panel legally with the generator problematic. Some of those issues wouldn't be present with this house, but I'd like to avoid that if at all possible.

At this point, 240v isn't something I'm looking at. I had originally installed it at the old house because 1) I could easily, 2) I had a compressor that ran on 240v that I ended up ditching for a smaller more practical compressor, and 3) If I ever decided to get a plug-in car, having the 50 amp plugs made it stupid easy to do. At this point, the only compelling reason would be number 3, and I don't see that happening in the next 9 years.
 
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Ryanbabz71

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
492
I am in the same boat waiting to close on my new house can’t wait to decorate the garage [emoji23]

Garage floor will be #1 followed by LED lighting


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ard

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
Do you have access above the ceiling or below the floor??? Usually pretty easy to drop down stud bays and place outlets. Especially if you are lucky and the fire blocking is JUST at the height you want outlets....

Consider a sub panel, not much extra work and more flexibility. Run a fat conduit from it, up to the crawl (or down) for future use.
 
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