New Garage - Pics and asking for suggestions pls

[vern1]

My first post on my first real garage and I am looking for some suggestions pls.

The basics: 19' wide and 25' deep. The back has a 5' deep section across the whole 19' width so the main part of the garage is about 19x20. It has a metal roof and a concrete floor in pretty good shape. Looks like the concrete was done in 1979 and there is a drain in the middle but not sure if it works. The original wood siding looks pretty old and has been covered in vinyl siding on the outside. There is a steel i-beam down the middle that supports the roof. It sags maybe 3-4" in the middle which you might be able to see from the pictures.

I will use it to keep one of my cars in (1996 911 convertible) and do some light engine and mechanical work (brakes etc) and keeping it clean and polished.

My plan so far:
1. New garage door coming in April
2. Have ripped out all the old drywall that was only on one wall where the window and workbench are- there is insulation underneath. I plan to drywall the 2 walls going down the sides. I have left the insulation there but not sure if i will put insulation under the drywall on the other wall. It will not see too much winter work and given i wont be insulating the back wall or roof i dont think one or 2 walls of insulation will make much of a difference. The drywalling is really just so it looks tidier and updated
3. Lighting: i am hanging 3 - 2 bulb T8 32w lights down each side with a 7th light over the work bench on the left. I will have some halogen lights for task lighting when i am working on the car. There will also be one T8 in the 5' wide back room which will be just for storage.
4. Electrical: will have 2 sockets by the panel by the front door, 2 more in front of the work bench, 1 by the back wall and 1 on the other side wall
5. Floor: leave it a is
6. Roof: it does sag a bit and as you can hopefully see from the pictures, the weight is resting on the shims on the ibeam. The whole thing looks a bit half assed but what risks am i running if i try and use jacks to raise it slightly and reshim it. Not exactly sure how i would do this and whether its even worth tackling
7. The workbench is an old cabinet from my wifes work. Its pretty solid but will likely put a 3/4" inch piece of plywood on the top before i bolt on a vice (suggestions on vice type?)

Thats about all i can think of so would appreciate any advice or suggestion.

Many thanks!!

 

[BD1]

hi, how stable are the blocks that the beam is resting on ??? Hard to tell from photo but appears to be mortared and is what is called stack bond. As long as that is stable I do not see a problem jacking the bottom of the joist to level out.
You could do this with two jacks of your choice off slab. I would level joist and cut a 2''x4'' and rest it on top of beam and if possible run it to the peak of truss
framing and then screw each part of roof support into the new 2''x4''. If you want to get fancy you can cut plywood to screw to the roof framing where they intersect. it would be like a store bought truss where the metal plates are.
This is kind what I was trying to say.
http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/sagging-roof-2.htm

 

[vern1]

The blocks are mortared so appear to be very stable. However i am not sure i follow you even after looking at your link. The ibeam is not aligned exactly where the trjoist support are. Are you saying to run a 2x4 straight off the ibeam to the roof and screw it in? what prevents the 2x4 from moving on the ibeam? Sorry but this is all new to me and i am probably not explaing this properly. The pictures came out samller than i thought they would

 

[Jcslocum]

Vern,

Is the beam straight? You can stretch a string next to it to see.

Are the walls pushed out as well by the roof coming down? What does the ridge board look like? Soooo many questions...

 

[vern1]

Maybe this picture shows it better. You can see the ibeam at the bottom and the roof weight is not centred over the ibeam. In this case it is to the right of the beam and therefore the load bearing point is not centred on the ibeam

 

[vern1]

The ibeam appears straight and it looks like the wooden roof supports were just not shimmed high enough off the ibeam. If the walls are pushed out i cant really see it. Sorry whats the ridge board? And i cant figure out how to post larger pictures

 

[BD1]

I'm not too good at explaining either. Is the center of the beam the center of the roof ??? If not about how far from center is it.
Yes , the 2''x 4''bottom end is on top of beam and the top of 2''x 4'' goes all the way to roof. Where each existing part of roof framing contacts the new 2''x 4'' clamp and screw together. The new 2''x4'' runs vertical so when screw to existing framing it will not move. about where are you located ??

 

[BD1]

just saw the new pic. Ok, It appears the center of roof [the peak] is offset from center of beam. Run two 2''x4''s along each side of beam all the way to bottom of roof . Clamp and screw existing framing to new 2''x4''s. Jack up to level and the cut 4''x 4'' 's or 2''x4'' to lay flat on top of beam and screw 2''x 4'' to the piece laying on beam. You will have made a ''U'' shaped support with the bottom of ''u'' on beam and the sides of ''u'' going up to roof . It won't matter if its offset from the peak. Does this sound any better ???

 

[vern1]

I think i am starting to get it.

So do the 2x4's run along the steel beam to the ends where the cinder blocks are? Then i need to fasten them to the wall somehow? Since that is about 19' i will need to join the 2x4's across the beam (do i use metal plates).

Then i put a u shaped 2x4 support (screwed in to the 2x4 that runs across the steel beam) with the vertical 2x4's screwed into the roof support to hold the roof up to the new level. I presume i can or actually need to do this all along the ibeam

It doesnt need to be centred because the new supports carry the weight of the roof on to the ibeam?

 

[BD1]

Here is what I was trying to say. FIRST PICTURE: This is kind of like yours except the bottom of my 2x4 is resting on beam and you have a space. The silver metal piece where the lumber intersects is what you could make using plywood after it is level to help hold together .Plywood grain is best going horizontal for this gusset.
Second pic: I "C" clamped two 2x4 to the existing roof framing that goes from top of beam all the way to the underside of roof. Each added 2x4 contacts the existing roof framing in three locations. These would be clamped and screwed at those points tying them together. It would be at the top of framing, middle ,and the bottom.
Third pic: I laid a 4x4 perpendicular to the beam right on top ,wide enough for the newly added 2x4's to be screwed to. My photo shows 4x4 on top beam in front of 2x4 with no space. You will have a space from the top of 4x4 to bottom of your framing.
Hope this is what you are looking for. It's hard to see from pictures how yours is constructed. You are trying to make your roof framing into one solid truss. The factory made trusses use metal plates where as you can make from plywood. So where ever the wood intersects cut plywood gussets after it is level. Hope this helps. I sent you a PM.

 

[BD1]

here are the pics. They did not show up first try.

 

[BD1]

third picture was a duplicate. here is third correct picture. I **** at this. I will get the hang of it I hope.

 

[vern1]

BD1 many thanks for the info and sent you a PM with a few other questions!!

Anyone else with any other thoughts on the non roof plan??

Thanks!