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New Garage Questions

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,259
Location
Maryland
Hi,

I'm a long time lurker. I built (had built)a 36 x 32 detached garage in my last house but the whole shebang was sold due to divorce. So new house now has a tiny 20 x 20 "double" car garage. I'm planning an attached additional 32 x 28 one and have two questions at this point and would love to get some good input.

1) For Pex in the floor, as I understand it, 200-250' is the desired max length of each run. What size pex is best? Recommended spacing? Then I can figure out how many runs. I'm not planning on installing the heating right away, so how should I terminate the lines? Just have them sticking up 4-5 feet? Should they all be bunched together at where they will exit the floor? I guess it's important to mark them as pairs. Also, how far embedded in the concrete should they be? I'm aware of the need for insulation below them, etc.

2) I'm going with 12' ceilings for a lift eventually. I know I need to pour the floor thicker and avoid pex where the lift will be placed. So.... two basic questions on lifts:

a) Is a 2 post better than a 4 post? Why? Cheaper? Unobstructed floor? Please give me your pros/cons.

b) Let's assume 2 post. Then do you all have one that is highly recommended and the best (like, for example, I think most of us think highly of snap-on hand tools and Ingersoll Rand air compressors)? And is the location of the lift mounting points fairly standard? I won't be buying the lift immediately so I don't want to screw up on where I reinforce the floor.


Ok, here are the garage plans. Attach a 32 x 28 with 12' ceilings via a new 9 x 19 mudroom. The new mudroom will house a pantry and laundry area. The entrance to this mud room will be through the old powder room which will be moved to the current pantry. The new powder room location is where it should have been in the first place! And we do now have a second floor laundry room, so why put it in the new mud room? Because the new fangled high efficiency washing machines spin along a horizontal axis which means they bounce in an up and down manner and the house shakes so much you'd think it was going to fall down. And I'll get to remove a wall and enlarge the master bath into the current second floor laundry room. It'll be cool (eventually!) Back to garage plans. I'll use attic trusses to get a decent sized storage area up top. I'll have permanent stairs to the attic. We'll put in two functional dormers up top too. I'm going with two 10' wide by 8' high fully insulated doors, 2 x 6 framing, and am thinking of putting in a rough in for a toilet and sink. Being attached, it will have a front and side man door and also a door to the mudroom. The idea of not even going outside in the rain or snow or cold or dark to go to your abode sounds really cool to me. I tried to make the current garage work but without a shed, it's half full of yard stuff. And even so, there's just no room to do anything to the car.

I know, go as large as you can, you'll never regret it. I think this is as large as I can afford, and as large as the stupid HOA would go for. Really, I think that having an extra 8 feet in both directions will help a lot. The 32' width will be eaten up a bit by the stairs, but I still see this as a really nice size garage.

I'm in the quote stage. I am always amazed at the huge spread in quotes. First one was 111k. Second today was 78k. Only substantial difference was that the first guy was really building a second story and not just an attic. He had a 32 x 12 room up there. Using attic trusses, I'll have a 32 x 4 section that is 6' high or more. The idea was storage. Another 33k for more storage means I'll never retire. At 58, I'm ready to retire and restore old cars!!!!!

Thanks for your comments and suggestions!
Tom
 
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97CV

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Joined
Mar 21, 2008
Messages
87
Location
Romulus,MI
My two cents.

Although I like the space saving of the 2 post...I cant stand the obstruction when i want to open the door on a four door sedan when on said lift.
 

Bib Overalls

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Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
3,318
Location
Jonesboro, Arkansas
Four post lifts are good for oil changes, transmission work, and, with a jack tray, they can be used to service wheel bearings and do brake work. They are also good for parking/stacking two cars in the same floor space. Two post lifts give full access the the car's undercarrage. They are prefered by service mechanics. If you opt for a two post lift make sure you get a model with overhead cables. The floor mounted cable covers interfer with transmission jacks and similar roll around service units. The mechanics I know prefer the models with asymetrical arms.
 

ovilla

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Joined
Dec 18, 2005
Messages
2,342
Location
Plainfield, IL
I would say to get a 2-post only if you intend to seriously do all of your own vehicle maintenance. I know a couple of folks that have bought these and do nothing more than oil changes, brake jobs, and the rotating of tires, all of which can be performed by an unobstructive 4-post lift that will also allow you to park two cars in the same one spot. If you'll be going to a mechanic for "serious" car repair, which surpasses your abilities, then why buy a 2 post that will take up a lot of space and be more of a hassle to use. With a 4 post you just drive up, set your parking brake and lift and do your routine maintenance. With a 2-post you have to get down on your knees and set the arms exactly on your lifting points (which is not a big deal since you'll get good at this after repeated use of the lift). If you have plenty of space and plan on doing all of your own maintenance, then get a 2 post lift. Cost is really a non issue as you can spend just as much on either one with all of the bells and whistles you want.
 

zj96sc

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Joined
Feb 5, 2008
Messages
63
bendpak doesn't call out any 'reinforcing' other than minimum 4" thick 3000 psi concrete where you want to install it, and it gives hole layouts and locations on their website.
 
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thammel

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Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,259
Location
Maryland
Thanks for your comments on the lifts. I plan to do normal maintenance along with anything substantial that comes my way. My retirement plans do include Triumph TR-250 restoration. Along the way, I've pulled and replaced engines along with trans pulling, so I'm capable of a lot of stuff. I'm a little fuzzy on doing brakes jobs on a 4 post lift. The way I see it, a 4 post lift has the suspension normally compressed and wheels on the car. How can you do suspensionor brakes with a 4 post lift. It seems to be a disadvantage. The key advantage seems to be stacked vehicle storage. I'm not into that.

Thanks again!
Tom
 

97CV

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2008
Messages
87
Location
Romulus,MI
With a four post you simply add bracing under the car,When you lift the carriage the frame of the car will also lift leaving the 4 wheels "free". It ***** but I have seen it done.
 

Farmallgray

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Joined
Nov 30, 2007
Messages
95
Location
Spring Mills, Pa
For the pex tubing, the most popular setup seems to be to use 1/2" on 1' spacing.
They recommend to pressure test the system before you pour the concrete. To do this, you almost have to have a manifold hooked up. It is also recommended to leave it pressurized during the pour. That way if any damage occurs during the pour, it can be fixed before the concrete cures. I poured my shop last fall 50X24. I used 1200' of 1/2" pex in 6 loops. I found the least expensive place to buy the pex was on ebay. I also got my manifold on ebay, but I'm not real impressed with it. One of the valves leaked air when I had it pressurized. I laid out 6" wire mesh then tied the tubing to it. We then pulled the mesh up to about midpoint in the concrete as we poured. I spent a lot of time studying on the web and even checked a couple books out of the library. There is lots of good info on the web.
Here are a couple sites I got info from;
www.heatinghelp.com
www.radiantdesigninstitute.com
www.radiantec.com
www.pexheat.com

A google search will turn up lots more.

I also spent a lot of time making a layout drawing of how the tubing would go. It is tuff to get all the loops exactly the same. Take lots of pics after you get the tubing layed out so you know where you can drill holes if you need to.
 

revlover

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Joined
Mar 27, 2008
Messages
264
Another thought... reason garage guys go with a two post lift is because they're constantly using the lift. You can't store vehicles on a two post lift, at least BendPak doesn't recommend it.

I would go with a four post... you get so many more uses from it for your money.
 

john56h

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Joined
May 1, 2007
Messages
64
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
How inclusive are your $78,000 amd $111,000 estimates?

I would have guessed about $50-60,000 for what you describe, but perhaps you have a lot of excavation and maybe your quotes include heat, finish work, etc...
 
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