To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

New growth lumber vs old growth

Zaffer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
94
Location
Radiant, VA
My garage currently has old growth true 2x6’s for the ceiling joists, at a 6’2” ceiling height and spanning 9-1/2’. I am planning on moving the ceiling up to 9’ so I can utilize the space better and install an insulated garage door.

I was thinking about putting in 2x8 SYP instead of the old growth 2x6’s, but should I? The current joists were floored over and used for storage by us and PO’s with no issues and I would still use it for storage, just not as much stuff since I’ll be losing 3’ vertically, which is fine.

Thoughts?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Lumber is expensive and old growth is desirable. However, it's ***** to nail w/o predrilling. If you choose the pine which I'd likely do, you can sell the old stuff for pretty good money. It will likely not be used in any construction, but more like furniture, maybe Adirondack chairs.
 
OP
Z

Zaffer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
94
Location
Radiant, VA
If I reuse it, I would end up screwing it into place as it’s balloon construction and I would use a board underneath front-to-back for added support/leveling surface. I get I could sell it, but I like the old growth and it usually doesn’t flex as much. Everything I’m finding this far seems to indicate that an old growth 2x6 is about similar in strength over the same span as SYP 2x8’s due to how tight the grain is. I just didn’t know if I should just because I could. While lumber prices are starting to fall, the quality of today’s lumber isn’t exactly great, at least where I live.

I would pre-drill due to how tough the wood is. It would be a little more time consuming, but I wouldn’t have to drive anywhere and buy wood.

BTW, the joists are 24” OC. I will also install bracing between the joists as this helped A LOT when I did this in my house.
 
OP
Z

Zaffer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
94
Location
Radiant, VA
We’ll, after taking a closer look at everything, it looks like I’ll be installing 2x8 SYP for the ceiling joists for the following reasons:

1) I can use the existing joists to stand on while I install the new ceiling joists.

2) some of the current joists have had bore bees in them and I’m not sure how it would affect the strength of the wood.

3) The old wood is rough sawn and some of the edges are not square, so not sure how this would affect a ceiling covering install (Sheetrock, plywood, etc.).

4) Due to being balloon construction, I would maintain the structural integrity better while moving the ceiling up.

The rafters of the roof are 2x4’s and do not have any ties or a center beam, so don’t want to risk severely compromising the structure while doing this. I know chances are small anything would happen, but I’d like to minimize the possibility. I am planning on installing ties in the roof, just to add a little more structure, even though it’s been standing this long (at least 80 years) without any issues.
 

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,224
Location
West central Indiana
Just move one up at a time and not during high winds. 2x6 is an appropriate sized floor joist for 9.5 feet span according to the span tables.

If worried about strength, glue/screw a 2x4 to the bottom of the 2x6 (like the flange of an I beam) If you use proper structural screws and a good polyurethane construction adhesive in proper amounts it will be as strong/stronger than the new 2x8's.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
Z

Zaffer

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
94
Location
Radiant, VA
I ended up using new 2x8’s for the joists as the overall length was 119” and at least two of the 2x6’s flexed a little more than I was comfortable with when I stepped on them. It cost me around $150 in lumber and hardware. I ended up using 2x6x16’s for the “support” beams; they are screwed to the vertical 2x4’s to support the joists and tie everything together. I’m going to go back with L-brackets to tie the joists to the support beams. I figure the more I can tie together, the better.

Thanks for the ideas and letting me bounce some off of everyone!
 

bob15

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2011
Messages
6,863
Location
Northeasten, CT
Not really sure I would call it "old growth" but rather rough cut or true dimensional lumber.....which can be still bought.
 

billconner

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,971
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
Rather than tieing 2x8s to 2x6 ledger, which usually was a 1x6 let into the studs in balloon framing, it would be better to tie 2x8s into studs. A 12" or so block under the 2x8 nailed into studs would do much more than the L-brackets. Look at job site built ladders - always blocking under rungs. Wood fasteners are too subject to withdrawal.
 

Wolley

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2022
Messages
420
Location
Maine
Old lumber isn't as magical as some make it seem. True old growth would be from a tree alive pre Columbus. Most forests on the east coast have been harvested several times in the past 200 years. A rough sawn 2x6 is just old lumber and if the species and grade is the same is no better than a new one.
 

billconner

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,971
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
I know my house near Chicago was but in 1903 or 04, balloon frame, and all rough sawn. I believe from northern Wisconson. It sure appeared to be much tighter growth rings then new lumber like 10 per inch versus 5 to 6 in new, and when I cut it, smelled like fresh cut pine. And the studs were mostly 20'.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom