New guy looking for some advice with garage addition.

[Coach529]

New guy from North Dakota looking for some advice.

Moved into a new to me house a couple years ago. Came from a nice, built by me, 26' x 30" garage at my old place. Current garage is 24' wide x 22' deep. I want to add another 18' wide x 24' deep onto one side.

I had to build a retaining wall due to elevation drop on that side of the garage.

https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/303825_1941406298741_4417904_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/315607_1992674580416_1659108998_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/294366_2014206558702_975625157_n.jpg

https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/387294_2112265970126_446385486_n.jpg

The gravel in front of the new slab will be poured this spring.

Here is a better view of the front of the existing garage and slab on the side.

https://sphotos-b.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/487447_4790422282360_2098608488_n.jpg

What I would like to do it cut the roof off the existing garage and install a new roof running the other way. While I am at it, raise the walls 2' (10' total wall height). Rafters would be steep pitch so I have lots of storage in the attic.

Dream list:

- 10' side walls
- Qty 3 9' x 9' garage doors
- dormers on roof to tie into the look of the house
- attic access inside new addition. permanent stairs.
- keep both areas seperated but have a 10' sliding bar door between them.
- new vinyl siding on both old and new.

I am more than capable of building it myself, but age has taught me to try hire some of it out. Of course $$$ dictates how much. Ideally I would like to hire out all the roof portion, but I would do the rest.

 

[Automatic Slim]

Nice work Coach. Very nice indeed.

You are straddling the threshold of demo on the one and rebuild as whole unit. Since you are replacing the siding, tearing roof and plans to reconfig is the biggest expense.

Tearing down the "old" garage and running rafters the other way would add more sound structure (see snow load) and would solve alot of headache - as trying to "tie" into existing with all your wishes would prove to be the more difficult, imo.

I know, I hate to scrap a good structure, but if you plan on staying a while, do it right the first time. Salvage what you can? You've already gone this far?

Actually kind like the look of it now w/ the xtra slab for open parking and work area, but north dakota can see reason for closure and wind protection. Tyvek that ***** up and insulate. Radiant slab would have been nice tooooooooooo....

Good luck & once again, very nice job on the pour.

 

[Coach529]

Nice work Coach. Very nice indeed.

You are straddling the threshold of demo on the one and rebuild as whole unit. Since you are replacing the siding, tearing roof and plans to reconfig is the biggest expense.

Tearing down the "old" garage and running rafters the other way would add more sound structure (see snow load) and would solve alot of headache - as trying to "tie" into existing with all your wishes would prove to be the more difficult, imo.

I know, I hate to scrap a good structure, but if you plan on staying a while, do it right the first time. Salvage what you can? You've already gone this far?

Actually kind like the look of it now w/ the xtra slab for open parking and work area, but north dakota can see reason for closure and wind protection. Tyvek that ***** up and insulate. Radiant slab would have been nice tooooooooooo....

Good luck & once again, very nice job on the pour.

If we never had winter......I would likely never even think about it. I poured that over a year ago and worked on it all last summer. It is shaded pretty good.

In the winter I simply run out of room for projects.

There is pex in the new slab.

 

[Cryptic1911]

I agree.. At this point, I'd just tear that one down. It will take longer to modify that one and make it how you want than if you just built it right the first time. Do 2x6 studs so you can have better insulation, etc. It will work out for the best, and you can run everything exactly where you want it

 

[Coach529]

That is another debate. 2 x 4 with spray in insulation or 2 x 6 with batt insulation?

 

[Automatic Slim]

by the looks of that sweet *** truck and the quality of that pour, me thinks you know what your going to do

 

[Coach529]

by the looks of that sweet *** truck and the quality of that pour, me thinks you know what your going to do

Thanks. I am an electrician by trade, but my wife and I do some some junk rehab, furniture rehab as a side gig. It is a fun hobby and it supliments her income since she works part time.

https://www.facebook.com/Kustom.Creation

https://sphotos-a.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/541584_433975346678191_431944356_n.jpg

The truck is just another hobby!!

http://smu.gs/QOlhWY

 

[Coach529]

by the looks of that sweet *** truck and the quality of that pour, me thinks you know what your going to do

That truck is another time consuming Hobby!!

http://smu.gs/QOlhWY

 

[CNGsaves]

If you're planning to extend garage to the right of the existing, I'd just build it with taller walls like you envision. I'd run roof the other way and tie-in with other building with overlap - - thus end up with couple valleys. Cut in header on right side wall for the sliding barn between 2 buildings.

However, I'd recommend a big 16' x 8' single door on the new building on right side. That would make backing that trailer into the garage a lot easier.

Good luck and post up plans and pics along the way. Love the old Chevy p/u!

 

[Coach529]

If you're planning to extend garage to the right of the existing, I'd just build it with taller walls like you envision. I'd run roof the other way and tie-in with other building with overlap - - thus end up with couple valleys. Cut in header on right side wall for the sliding barn between 2 buildings.

However, I'd recommend a big 16' x 8' single door on the new building on right side. That would make backing that trailer into the garage a lot easier.

Good luck and post up plans and pics along the way. Love the old Chevy p/u!

Couple problems with that. The new portion is 18' W and 24' deep. It is 2' deeper than the existing so running the roof the other way will not work easily.

I am not a fan of 16' doors. 9' will be fine. The trailer will only be in the garage a couple times a year at the most, and I can roll it in by hand with a spotter.

 

[Coach529]

Anybody else.....

 

[NUTTSGT]

Are you planning on using a ridge pole and rafters or custom made trusses ? I'm guessing rafters as you plan on putting in dormers.

 

[Coach529]

Are you planning on using a ridge pole and rafters or custom made trusses ? I'm guessing rafters as you plan on putting in dormers.

Rafters more than likely!!

 

[NUTTSGT]

You'll probably have to tear into the end walls to frame up for mounting the ridge poles. If you are having a contractor do the roof, get their input for what they need for the ridge pole.

Willyou be tearing out the "center" wall ?

 

[Coach529]

You'll probably have to tear into the end walls to frame up for mounting the ridge poles. If you are having a contractor do the roof, get their input for what they need for the ridge pole.

Willyou be tearing out the "center" wall ?

No the center wall will stay.

I have a contractor coming over tomorrow to discuss options.

 

[Coach529]

Contractor came over and we discussed options.

Best option is tear it down and start over........time to crunch numbers.

 

[Garage Dog]

"Rafters would be steep pitch so I have lots of storage in the attic."

Another often overlooked way to maximize your attic storage is to have a room truss custom built with a taller "heel". This effectively raises the top cords of the truss giving you more headroom in a larger portion of you attic as the roof line slopes down to the eaves.

The only drawback is that the truss "heel" gets stacked on top of the sidewall and gives you a taller sidewall that can look out of proportion at some point.

If you google room truss images, you should get a visual.

BTW IMHO: Go with 2x6 construction regardless of how you insulate

 

[Coach529]

"Rafters would be steep pitch so I have lots of storage in the attic."

Another often overlooked way to maximize your attic storage is to have a room truss custom built with a taller "heel". This effectively raises the top cords of the truss giving you more headroom in a larger portion of you attic as the roof line slopes down to the eaves.

The only drawback is that the truss "heel" gets stacked on top of the sidewall and gives you a taller sidewall that can look out of proportion at some point.

If you google room truss images, you should get a visual.

BTW IMHO: Go with 2x6 construction regardless of how you insulate

Similar to a "bonus room truss"?

 

[Zeke]

I agree with tearing down most of it. Just the 2' added to the top of the walls is a bad approach. If you go the other direction with the roof ridge, how does that work when the roof gets to the part that is 2' wider of span?

The suggestions in post #9 are interesting but the roof line and resulting "Dutch" gable won't be fun to frame and support.

 

[kc2hqv]

If we never had winter......I would likely never even think about it. I poured that over a year ago and worked on it all last summer. It is shaded pretty good.

In the winter I simply run out of room for projects.

There is pex in the new slab.

WOW nice truck! Great photo- the lighting's really cool.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If you tear down and start over, did the contractor suggest anything to make the back wall straight across with no bump out at the new section ?

I'll agree with the 2x6 walls also.

 

[CNGsaves]

Could have forecast that "Tear It Down" recommendation from contractor before it ever happened. He doesn't want the extra work needed to make it work. That's a cop-out in my opinion. That's kind of like mechanic saying get a whole new engine/****** crate setup when all you needed was upgrade to ******!!

I'd get a 2nd opinion from a local carpenter willing to work a little. No reason you can't accomplish the 2nd portion expansion (ie 3 new walls) with some shorty trusses that tied in with old structure. If necessary, you could tear open old roof above that right wall and put laminated beam up on top of old roof with steel poles going down to the right side wall that would be beefed up to support that load. Best flow of water on roof would be accomplished by this method, along with "false-roof" cripple rafters to create the valleys.

I'd spend couple hundred dollars with an architect to dream out all your What-IF's before accepting cop-out first answer to "Tear Down" by builder.

 

[Garage Dog]

Yes, room truss and bonus room truss are the same thing.

 

[Coach529]

WOW nice truck! Great photo- the lighting's really cool.

Just a typical late summer day!!

 

[Coach529]

Could have forecast that "Tear It Down" recommendation from contractor before it ever happened. He doesn't want the extra work needed to make it work. That's a cop-out in my opinion. That's kind of like mechanic saying get a whole new engine/****** crate setup when all you needed was upgrade to ******!!

I'd get a 2nd opinion from a local carpenter willing to work a little. No reason you can't accomplish the 2nd portion expansion (ie 3 new walls) with some shorty trusses that tied in with old structure. If necessary, you could tear open old roof above that right wall and put laminated beam up on top of old roof with steel poles going down to the right side wall that would be beefed up to support that load. Best flow of water on roof would be accomplished by this method, along with "false-roof" cripple rafters to create the valleys.

I'd spend couple hundred dollars with an architect to dream out all your What-IF's before accepting cop-out first answer to "Tear Down" by builder.

It did not really go down like that.

With the criteria I gave him, it just seems like the most sense.He does not have a whole lot of dog in the fight anyway, since I am only hiring him for the roof anyway.