New guy needs a bit of adevice on impact recommendation

[The.Uncle.Tony.]

Hey. I'm new around this site and I'm glad I found it. I've recently started a new career as a locomotive mechanic coming from furniture repair and I didn't realize how many new tools I needed to get. I have , what can be modestly called, a **** ton of tools for woodworking and upholstering. That being said , besides basic hand tools, I am in need of more mechanic oriented tools.

With that being said, I could use some advice from fellow tool guys.

So I'm looking to get a cordless impact driver and wrench. However I'm on a bit of a budget right now. So after looking around for deals and doing a bit of research, the choices I've decided to choose from are the following:

Option 1- buy a used air impact wrench (I've seen a few for dirt cheap on ebay/Craigslist/letgo) and either a BRUSHED Makita impact driver that's on sale at home depot for $99 http://m.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-...n-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Kit-XDT042/206025693

Option 2 - same as 1 except with a BRUSHED Milwaukee same price (comes with a free work light) http://m.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-...mpact-Driver-Worklight-Kit-2656-21L/207132462

Option 3 - go all in on the kobalt 24v brushless line and grab the impact driver and wrench along with any future powertools

Every powertool I own is a mixed bag (brand-wise) of corded tools, with the exception of a craftsman regular driver, and I really don't care for it. Im at a point where in about 6 months I'll be making enough money to afford a brushless driver and wrench (either makita or Milwaukee- leaning makita). That being said I absolutely need both right now. I like the kobalt warrantee and the battery prices. Plus they're both brushless at a great price.But I'm iffy on the brand. I'm tired of mediocre cordless drills.

Thanks for any input

 

[jshillin]

Are you looking for an impact driver for small things or something to use on lug nuts, axle nuts, crank pulley's etc? If you are going into automotive, I'm getting it's the latter.

If it is the more automotive geared impact, get the 18V Milwaukee Fuel. It's an animal and has done everything I have asked of it so far.

This is just the bare tool.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...ith-Friction-Ring-Bare-Tool-2763-20/204410434

 

[md21722]

I would think locomotive work is heavy industry and involves 3/4" - 1" air tools, and lots of big sockets. Plus angle grinders, related abrasives, and stuff like that with the yard supplying much of it. Do you need to supply all tools or just the smaller ones?

 

[The.Uncle.Tony.]

Well it's working on trains so I'd say it's pretty heavy duty lol.

What I need mostly is a 1/2" impact wrench, anything larger, the company provides. Also an impact driver for the tough screws etc. The company also provides and other tools (wrenches etc) that are larger than 1". So those would suffice.

I really drool at the Milwaukee fuel stuff but they're a bit pricey for me right now .
It's why I'm looking at the less expensive brushed tools as opposed to the brushless. Or I saw the kobalt brushless tools that are at a price point I can afford. I just don't know a lot about kobalt power tools.

 

[Empty Pockets]

Welcome, Tony. There is a good group here. For what it's worth, I'll cast my vote for Milwaukee, as well.

Please update your profile to include the general area in which you live. There might be a local vendor with a good option, as well.

 

[nrj]

I'm sure the Milwaukee would be a fine way to go too, but I haven't used. I have BL Makita and battery life is great, charge times short, and the 1/2" impact does amazing things. If you'll have the cash to upgrade in relatively short order you'll already have a charger and some batteries so not a big loss and you'll still have the brushed anyhow. I'd go Makita or Milwaukee. If 1/2" impact is key, Makita XWT08 is the real deal.

 

[1950mercury]

Buy the fuel...buy once cry once...buy the kobolt cry twice...once when you buy it 2nd time when you replace it

 

[Voi]

Not knowing exactly what sort of fasteners are common with locomotive work I'd like to offer a fourth option.

Buy a brushless impact wrench and get a square to hex adapter for non socket work.

I doubt this will cover all of the needs for locomotive work but it might get you by for the next six months without buying both tools, thereby putting all of your current money into one good tool.

For the record, I don't own a cordless impact wrench but for the last few years I've used my impact driver as much or more for socket work as I have for driving screws. If my current driver dies I might very well get a compact Fuel wrench and an adapter.

It really depends on what your torque requirements are for both tools.

 

[Distrophe]

I recommend stepping up to brushless. Some of the older versions arent nearly as expensive as the top fuel.

Impact driver price alone is about 60 for brushed or 80 for brushless, non Fuel.

 

[The.Uncle.Tony.]

Welcome, Tony. There is a good group here. For what it's worth, I'll cast my vote for Milwaukee, as well.

Please update your profile to include the general area in which you live. There might be a local vendor with a good option, as well.

Will do. Thanks.

Buy the fuel...buy once cry once...buy the kobolt cry twice...once when you buy it 2nd time when you replace it

LoL you're probably right.

Not knowing exactly what sort of fasteners are common with locomotive work I'd like to offer a fourth option.

Buy a brushless impact wrench and get a square to hex adapter for non socket work.

I doubt this will cover all of the needs for locomotive work but it might get you by for the next six months without buying both tools, thereby putting all of your current money into one good tool.

For the record, I don't own a cordless impact wrench but for the last few years I've used my impact driver as much or more for socket work as I have for driving screws. If my current driver dies I might very well get a compact Fuel wrench and an adapter.

It really depends on what your torque requirements are for both tools.

Not a bad idea, I thought about that but I was worried that that might be too much torque. Don't want the striped screw of death syndrome lol.


Thanks for all the suggestions folks .

 

[Hiball]

Curious to what Rail company you work for that "doesn't" provide "All" required tools? Did they send you to school?

 

[theoldwizard1]

What I need mostly is a 1/2" impact wrench, ...

Then save up and buy WHAT YOU NEED ! Those are toys compared to a good 1/2" impact. If you are on a tight budget, the Habor Freight 1/2" Earthquake is really a good tool.

Also an impact driver for the tough screws etc.

For really tough screws start with a hand impact, like a Lisle 30200 and then add a Wivco Shake N Break (this requires an air hammer).

Personally, I would wait until I had the funds and the buy a Milwaukee M12 3/8" Fuel impact AND a 3/8" to 1/4" hex adapter.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For the record, I don't own a cordless impact wrench but for the last few years I've used my impact driver as much or more for socket work as I have for driving screws.

I'm sure you know it, but you are loosing a lot of torque through those adapters.

 

[BajaBound]

I would start with a 2763 if you are working on choochoo trains but the 2655 or 2755 are great options.

 

[Voi]

Not a bad idea, I thought about that but I was worried that that might be too much torque. Don't want the striped screw of death syndrome lol.

I'd have the same concern. If you went that route I'd make sure to get one of the impact wrenches with multiple torque/speed modes.

When I made my previous post in this thread I had overlooked that you specifically needed a 1/2" impact wrench.

The only 1/2" cordless I can think of with multiple torque settings is the 2nd Generation M18 Fuel Compact.

I don't know the max torque specs of that model but I'd certainly check and see if that can get you through the next six months or so. I suspect that's a tool you'd find useful for your new job regardless.

Somehow I have this idea in my head that the 1st generation Fuel 1/2" compact wrench didn't have multiple speed settings but the 3/8" did. I can't double check that right now but I will try to do so shortly and post back. [EDIT] My kids are home since we're flying out later today. They're excited and wound up and making it nearly impossible to do something as simple as search out the specs on a cordless impact wrench.

 

[theoldwizard1]

... I was worried that that might be too much torque. Don't want the striped screw of death syndrome lol.

For really tough screws start with a hand impact, like a Lisle 30200 and then add a Wivco shake n break (this requires an air hammer).

^^^^^ no stripped screws !!

 

[Voi]

Somehow I have this idea in my head that the 1st generation Fuel 1/2" compact wrench didn't have multiple speed settings but the 3/8" did. I can't double check that right now but I will try to do so shortly and post back.

I just looked up the 2655 that a previous poster mentioned. That's the first generation M18 Fuel 1/2" and it appears to have three modes - so I was wrong.

Note that the 2655 has pin detent retention. Not sure if that's recommended for your new industry. I don't know the model number for that generation 1/2" with a friction retention system if that's what you prefer or if it even exists.

I'm sure you know it, but you are loosing a lot of torque through those adapters.

Yup, I sure do. In some older threads a few posters have mentioned that they feel the compromise isn't as great when using a wrench with a square to hex adapter versus the alternative of using a driver with a hex to square adapter (which is what I do now).

I think the ideal setup for me would be a M18 3/8" Fuel and then have an additional 12V impact driver (either M12 or one for my current Bosch 12V system). Over the Thanksgiving break I spent a lot of time switching back from a socket/adapter to a torx bit and there were times when both my wife and I needed an impact driver. The above combo with adapters would give me a lot of options without buying into too many tools.

 

[The.Uncle.Tony.]

Curious to what Rail company you work for that "doesn't" provide "All" required tools? Did they send you to school?

What they do is an annual $250 tool/boot bonus in February..... better than nothing.

Yes there was a school/ training classes conducted by the company and train manufacturers

 

[The.Uncle.Tony.]

^^^^^ no stripped screws !!

LoL thanks. I have a decent hand impact (proto) that I've owned for a bit. I love that thing. Little tough to get into the tight spaces.

Thanks for your imput

 

[The.Uncle.Tony.]

I just looked up the 2655 that a previous poster mentioned....

Thanks for detailed help!

 

[ovrrdrive]

Keep in mind that when you buy into a cordless solution you're buying into the whole system as the chargers and batteries are all interchangeable. If you buy a cheap tool now with a few accessories and use it for a few years, if you want to upgrade you'll have to throw it all away and start over.

I'm with the M18 crew... If you can get one tool a battery and a charger now then you can work your way up by buying the bare tools and go from there. Ad a battery here and there and before you know it you'll have some tools you can work with.

I don't have a lot of it but I love what I do.

 

[IMStuner]

I go with Rigid with homedepot since they have a good lifetime service agreement on the cordless stuff. I know batteries are going to go and I haven't had to buy one for a long time.


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[Dsmdude]

I bought the Kobalt 24v brushless 1/2 impact on Black Friday for $200. I was kind of in the same boat where I needed one but red and yellow ones are $400+. Can't speak for the other tools but my impact has been great. Very powerful, I wouldn't expect it to be as powerful as the other top tier but not lacking in any way. 4.0 battery last a really long time. Beats the **** out of my snap on CT4415. I think it lists for $250 regular but it's worth every penny and I don't regret not buying a different one.

 

[4 Ever-Fish N]

Why brushless? What is the benefit? They are definitely more expensive. I have 2 Makita drills but have been wanting an impact driver.

 

[brendelac]

I was going to start a similar thread, but will jump into this one instead. I am looking at getting my first impact wrench. At this time, it will only be used for seized fasteners on automobiles.

I already own a few rigid 18V cordless tools so that was where I looked first, but I want to be sure I have enough torque for whatever I may need it for. Their wrench is rated at 325ft-lbs and is well reviewed, but not brushless. Maybe rigid will have a brushless model in the near future?

Alternately, there is a local ingersoll-rand 2135 QTiMax in the buy&sell for $150. Seems like it would leave the rigid in its dust and a very good price. The seller claims that it has never been used. My concern though is not being familiar with impact wrenches that I don't know what to look and I might buy someone's junk. Buyer beware and all that...

I think an electric drill would be slightly more convenient and is probably smaller to get into tight areas, but again, I don't want to buy something that doesn't have enough power either.

 

[bdelmar2]

For automotive work I can definitely recommend air tools, and Ingersoll rand in particular.

Having never worked on a train I can't really give any specific advice, but I'm thinking an air line might not be as commonly available? At least not when working on the smaller issues.

I have had a glance inside a train engine cab and saw a lot of dials and panels and what have you so I would imagine you need smaller stuff as well as larger stuff. I would also guess electrical tools and testing equipment would be needed.

I would also imagine the company, like most in the repair industry, want you to provide your own common smaller tools mainly for inventory control.

Basically if they provided all the hand tools then many would 'disappear' and pretty soon you have 5 guys at $25 an hour standing around because nobody can find a 10mm socket.

People tend to keep a better eye on their own stuff, and their is no point in them, um borrowing, their own tools.

The larger tools are less likely to walk off, hard to 'accidently' pocket a 2" wrench or a 3/4 breaker bar.


I'm with the guys who suggest buying the higher end, name brand, cordless tools with complete systems and common availability.

They cost more short term, but pay off in the long term and from my experience function better and have fewer issues.

From that perspective its hard to beat Milwaukee. Seems like everybody has a cordless line, but Milwaukee seems to have the largest selection and put the most effort into their lineup, especially in development.

Ryobi has a large system also, but not really what I consider 'professional' level.

I have quite a few 18v Ryobi tools for around the house, to drive a few screws, or drill a hole or two, cut a couple of boards at a time, and they work fine for that sort of thing, especially for the price. But if I was making my living doing that kind of work I would definitely upgrade.


4 Ever-Fish N:

Brushless are stronger - more torque, and use less power so they will run longer on a charge.

The brushless motors are easier to control electronically so more options and precision are possible.
Like the Milwaukee One Key system for example. You can set ramp up time, speed, and torque, pretty much endless variations from a cell phone app, and can store 4 setups at a time in the tool itself.

Also, at least in theory would last longer/require less maintaining as there are no brushes to wear out and require replacing.

I'm betting as the cost comes down all cordless tools will become brushless.

 

[gdocktor3]

I was going to start a similar thread, but will jump into this one instead. I am looking at getting my first impact wrench. At this time, it will only be used for seized fasteners on automobiles.

I already own a few rigid 18V cordless tools so that was where I looked first, but I want to be sure I have enough torque for whatever I may need it for. Their wrench is rated at 325ft-lbs and is well reviewed, but not brushless. Maybe rigid will have a brushless model in the near future?

Alternately, there is a local ingersoll-rand 2135 QTiMax in the buy&sell for $150. Seems like it would leave the rigid in its dust and a very good price. The seller claims that it has never been used. My concern though is not being familiar with impact wrenches that I don't know what to look and I might buy someone's junk. Buyer beware and all that...

I think an electric drill would be slightly more convenient and is probably smaller to get into tight areas, but again, I don't want to buy something that doesn't have enough power either.

First of all, do you have a compressor powerful enough to run that IR? You need a decent sized, 20 gallon +/- at least to really use that guns full potential. If/when you go to look at it, use common sense. If the nose cone is scratched up, housing is greasy, it's obvi not brand new. That's just about 1/2 off new price, but could be legit. I bought a 4 month old barely used Snap On mg725, shallow metric and shallow sae flank drive impact socket sets, 90% of them never used, for $200. Off the truck all that is over $1000, so there are deals out there. Now, I finally decided to upgrade to cordless impact about a year ago. I had Ridgid 18v for a long time and always loved them, but the impact was just too weak when you compared it to Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc. A friend had gave me a Dewalt 20v impact driver with a slim battery and I loved the power. I figured since I had a battery and bought a charger, I'd go with the Dewalt dcf899 impact rated at 1200 ft lbs. Its unbelievable. I never use air impacts any more. So, if you have air, get the IR. If you can afford something better than Ridgid, I'd say go for it. I didn't want to spend money on a tool that one day may not do what I ask, so I went with the biggest most powerful available. Oh btw, I'm not a mechanic by trade either...

 

[brendelac]

First of all, do you have a compressor powerful enough to run that IR? You need a decent sized, 20 gallon +/- at least to really use that guns full potential. If/when you go to look at it, use common sense. If the nose cone is scratched up, housing is greasy, it's obvi not brand new. That's just about 1/2 off new price, but could be legit. I bought a 4 month old barely used Snap On mg725, shallow metric and shallow sae flank drive impact socket sets, 90% of them never used, for $200. Off the truck all that is over $1000, so there are deals out there. Now, I finally decided to upgrade to cordless impact about a year ago. I had Ridgid 18v for a long time and always loved them, but the impact was just too weak when you compared it to Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc. A friend had gave me a Dewalt 20v impact driver with a slim battery and I loved the power. I figured since I had a battery and bought a charger, I'd go with the Dewalt dcf899 impact rated at 1200 ft lbs. Its unbelievable. I never use air impacts any more. So, if you have air, get the IR. If you can afford something better than Ridgid, I'd say go for it. I didn't want to spend money on a tool that one day may not do what I ask, so I went with the biggest most powerful available. Oh btw, I'm not a mechanic by trade either...

I have a 26gal husky compressor
5 hp
6.6 scfm @ 40 psi
5.8 scfm @ 90 psi
135 psi max

 

[gdocktor3]

I have a 26gal husky compressor
5 hp
6.6 scfm @ 40 psi
5.8 scfm @ 90 psi
135 psi max

That'll work fine for what you plan on doing. Go check out the IR. It is nice having a cordless though. No compressor, no hoses, and makes life easier when your wife/daughter/girlfriend call with a flat tire on the side of the road.

 

[brendelac]

That'll work fine for what you plan on doing. Go check out the IR. It is nice having a cordless though. No compressor, no hoses, and makes life easier when your wife/daughter/girlfriend call with a flat tire on the side of the road.

Just noticed this too....

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FREST98/?tag=atomicindus04-20

 

[gdocktor3]

That's the bad boy I have, but that's expensive. I bought just the bare tool for $200 brand new off Craigslist, but they go for $220 bare tool online. Then I bought a 3ah battery for like $40 and a charger for $25. You don't need two 5ah batteries for what you're doing. Buy this and then get a 3ah battery and charger off eBay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[brendelac]

That's the bad boy I have, but that's expensive. I bought just the bare tool for $200 brand new off Craigslist, but they go for $220 bare tool online. Then I bought a 3ah battery for like $40 and a charger for $25. You don't need two 5ah batteries for what you're doing. Buy this and then get a 3ah battery and charger off eBay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm in Canada. Our dollar is only worth $0.75usd right now. Even the price you paid works out to $350cdn. For the dewalt, the link I posted is as good as it gets as far as I can tell, but still a lot of cash for how often I would use it. How would these batteries do sitting unused for months at a time?