New guy with framing questions

[Bsj04]

From what I read flush the roof sheathing with the facia or trim if you trim it. You do NOT want the osb overhanging the facia. The drip edge will be installed right on the facia/trim and the shingles should overhang the drip edge about an inch.

 

[Falcon67]

On mine I left it proud about 1/2" because the facia and reveal at the roof edge would take up that space. The facia backer all around is 2x6. The gable ends are framed, just like the soffits.

Sample at a corner:

Facia and reveal before roofing:

Gable end treatment:

 

[Maxtork]

Thanks Guys,

Falcon, you left your OSB over by 1/2" beyond the 2x6 and then took up the gap with another board? It looks like you have something else attached to the 2x6 but I can't quite tell.

Thanks
Max

 

[Maxtork]

Hey Guys,

Not much progress lately as Mother Nature keeps ******* on me whenever I have time to work on the garage. I did get all my wood painted for the fascia all the way around. I decided to go with 2x6s to match the house.

I need you to talk me out of something though. I am going to put it all up soon and I am debating on if I should try to miter the corners of my fascia or just overlap the gable end board over the eave fascia. I know I can do it but not sure it is worth the hassle and risk of screwing up a 14 ft 2x6 if I **** up the angle. I know some people use 2x6 sub-fascia and then use another board on top as the actual fascia you see. I wasn't going to go that route, instead I was going to just paint the 2x6's and leave it at that so whatever I do will be visible in the end.

What do you guys think?

Max

 

[sophijo]

IMO the mitered joint is much weaker than lapped; prone to separating as it expands/contracts.

 

[Maxtork]

Thanks sophijo...I wasn't thinking about the strength, just the looks but that is a great point. Considering this particular joint will be kind of hanging in spaceit makes sense to build it as strong as I can.

Max