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New Hot Dawg installed

Motor2Wheel

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2015
Messages
10
Location
Southern WI
We have a low ceiling height in the shop, but were able to hang the heater with the 5' min floor clearance just fine. I was concerned with the spray foam insulation coming into contact with the vent pipe and wanted to pay real close attention to this. After the heater was hung, I punched the hole through the wall and roughed the pipe through. Using B double wall with a thimble.

I then removed the insulation from the area around the vent pipe and built a frame inside to screw drywall onto. The cavity is completely packed with Rockwool insulation, which is pretty nasty. I then buttoned it up with drywall and attached the thimble.

The vent pipe is required to be 1/4" slope for every foot in length. The picture shows the vent installed before adding a hanger to achieve the proper slope. It actually is more than 1/4"/ft, but I believe it is still OK.

The gas is plumbed with all hard black iron to a coupling at the appliance to allow for easy removal. There is a gas **** also within reach off the main line and a sediment trap.

I used an electro-mechanical type thermostat with the R, W, and G lines ran so I can have the fan run without heat to circulate air.

The unit works perfectly and the position is optimum, I feel. I still have to install the new windows in the place, which have been ordered. The heat was needed to allow for work out there in the meantime with the old windows in place or boarded up.

I have a Big Maxx in my house garage which works great in that area, but I needed more in this place and I'm glad I went with the Modine 100K unit.
 

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Motor2Wheel

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2015
Messages
10
Location
Southern WI
I forgot to mention that I can touch the vent pipe after the heater has been running for a while, not for long of course, but it really gives me comfort knowing that it doesn't get too hot. Thanks.
 

BillChoneser

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Joined
Oct 29, 2015
Messages
5
Horizontal vent configurations are Category III. For residential installations, this requires the use of an agency approved (UL1738) Category III vent system.
 
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Motor2Wheel

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2015
Messages
10
Location
Southern WI
Thanks, Bill, you are correct and I reviewed this in my installation manual. I did utilize connector hardware and fastening screws as also outlined in the instructions to join the sections together.
I will also be putting in an CO sensor to keep it even more safe for me and anyone else, but the fact is, this is a drafty old barn to begin with. I'm mainly trying to keep the temps up while working out there, rather than sleeping.
I've had a ventless heater in my garage for about 2 yrs before switching to the Big Maxx. The difference was incredible, no more headaches and tools sweating!
 

Champ128

Active member
Joined
May 3, 2015
Messages
33
What Bill is saying is that b-vent is not a category III vent material, it is category I.
 
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Motor2Wheel

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2015
Messages
10
Location
Southern WI
Thanks, guys. I am going to upgrade the system to Cat III so everything is good. Should be pretty straight-forward at this point, as long as everything fits with the new pipe.
 
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