117vApology accepted
Is that calculated at 110 or 120v?I jest I jest
117vApology accepted
Is that calculated at 110 or 120v?I jest I jest
Future proof the wiring, use 125V instead.117v
The wiring is already rated for 600V. CheckmateFuture proof the wiring, use 125V instead.
I was thinking he wanted something I requested from my utility company, a larger transformer.....25kw. They balked about it, but put it in for me anyways.....thinking about it now, I believe a 15kw would have been just fine.Here they install 15K transformers, these can feed several homes - no cost difference.. I think on the consumer side, you'll be hit for the 400A panels and associated wire, that's what's going to impact you.
I was thinking he wanted something I requested from my utility company, a larger transformer.....25kw. They balked about it, but put it in for me anyways.....thinking about it now, I believe a 15kw would have been just fine.
Typically, people, even electricians, think they need more power than they do. It is breaker space that is needed. The likely hood of the amount equipment powered at the same time to trip a 200amp service is insane. Unless you are running a
a commercial business (or growing dope) you don't need anything more than 200amps.
I guess you're right, but also wrong at the same time. I do need breaker space, but I have it and am not concerned - the primary reason for the ask is because I'm setting up and planning for adding a second building, so I'll have 200A available for the house and 200A availability for the shop when we build it a few years from now. One meter and 400A service allows higher availability and capacity of additional buildings, and this design includes the simplicity of having one meter head, and one bill. And we can take the power off of the house instead of the transformer for a shorter wire run which saves cost. A couple of comments mentioned 320A, which may be an option for some cost savings and that would also meet the future requirements, so I'll look into that as an option as well with the POCO.
Being that this is a brand new buildout I get the opportunity to build this out the way I want right now instead of having to do additional buildout and costs later. For those that say it's gonna be expensive, it may be right now...but labor, hardware and services are not getting any cheaper (inflation, etc.) so consider it a long term investment in the property and future power infrastructure of the house. I mean, remember when 100A service was standard? Now it's 200A.
With that said, I updated my build thread with some info that the electricians had roughed in wiring for 30A circuits, which is not going to meet the requirements for the 240V's 50/60 at the back of the house and in the garage, so I asked they upgrade the wiring and that was completed. Looking at getting the POCO out there on Tuesday for the start of the buildout quote so I should know how much this will cost in the next week or two.
Lots of comments back and forth, I appreciate it the support and positive comments, thanks all.
some of this sounds like it could be bordering on a load management problem. if you're paying demand charges "flip it all on" can cost a small fortune.It takes a lot to overload a 200A. A couple years ago the bar in town was tripping her 200A main breaker. She has a big electric grill, two fryers, and a electric range that all have 50A plugs, probably 5 or 6 heavy 120v things in the kitchen, a walk in freezer and a walk in cooler, I think 5 chest freezers, a couple other coolers, a 5 ton air conditioner, electric water heater. Plus all the little miscellaneous. 3 panels worth of breakers
It hit 210A for a few minutes when she came in to warm up everything in the kitchen. But after things were hot it was 150-170ish. I just replaced the main breaker and said it's overloaded a little but with a good breaker it should handle it. Old one was probably 15 years old and it's the crappy GE plug in main.
Yes load management could help quite a bit. I don't think the single phase meters even monitor demand.some of this sounds like it could be bordering on a load management problem. if you're paying demand charges "flip it all on" can cost a small fortune.
electric water heater is a pretty good target for demand management. turning it off for 5 minutes generally bothers no one.
Ok bud.
Uh-oh. Is that URD feeding the panel? Is the panel inside the structure? If yes to both, is it dual rated URD? I can't believe that I am the only sap to see this possible catastrophe waiting to happen. I would never do such a thing (post a picture of one of my violations on the interweb.)It takes a lot to overload a 200A. A couple years ago the bar in town was tripping her 200A main breaker. She has a big electric grill, two fryers, and a electric range that all have 50A plugs, probably 5 or 6 heavy 120v things in the kitchen, a walk in freezer and a walk in cooler, I think 5 chest freezers, a couple other coolers, a 5 ton air conditioner, electric water heater. Plus all the little miscellaneous. 3 panels worth of breakers
It hit 210A for a few minutes when she came in to warm up everything in the kitchen. But after things were hot it was 150-170ish. I just replaced the main breaker and said it's overloaded a little but with a good breaker it should handle it. Old one was probably 15 years old and it's the crappy GE plug in main.
Mr. 100a #2 feederUh-oh. Is that URD feeding the panel? Is the panel inside the structure? If yes to both, is it dual rated URD? I can't believe that I am the only sap to see this possible catastrophe waiting to happen. I would never do such a thing (post a picture of one of my violations on the interweb.)![]()
Is there a picture to prove your accusations? Maybe I was telling a story.Mr. 100a #2 feeder
My attorney will be in touchIs there a picture to prove your accusations? Maybe I was telling a story.
Would that be the Law Office of Haagen and Dazs?My attorney will be in touch
Law Offices of Dewey, Cheatem, and HoweWould that be the Law Office of Haagen and Dazs?
Hey, I didn't even do that install. Btw it's 4/0 also, and there's the 100A feeder with #4 cu visible in the bottom corner.Uh-oh. Is that URD feeding the panel? Is the panel inside the structure? If yes to both, is it dual rated URD? I can't believe that I am the only sap to see this possible catastrophe waiting to happen. I would never do such a thing (post a picture of one of my violations on the interweb.)![]()
You touched it, you own it!Hey, I didn't even do that install. Btw it's 4/0 also, and there's the 100A feeder with #4 cu visible in the bottom corner
Ah i see while I was away the measuring stick was brought out.
Ok, so the quote is back from the POCO - 168ft total - from the road, to the transformer, to the house. All underground trenched in rock, transformer, wiring, all the bits and bobs including design for 400A service...since there was a comment earlier, anyone care to take a crack at the total?
320A service, 2 x 200A panels, a transformer pad, trenching 200 feet and providing 200A to the house came back at about $25k for me 3 years ago. I can see $30k in your case. I went with the DIY option, did the trench/conduit for $1000 (no wire), pad for another $1000, 2 x 200A service for about $3500.Ok, so the quote is back from the POCO - 168ft total - from the road, to the transformer, to the house. All underground trenched in rock, transformer, wiring, all the bits and bobs including design for 400A service...since there was a comment earlier, anyone care to take a crack at the total?
In that application 2 AWG aluminum alloy is only allowed 90A, it's normal rating.I'm thinking of the same thing. I have 2 homes on the propert, it's y and just built my 900-square-foot shop. My main home has 400 amp and then it breaks out 200 to my in-laws 1,000 sf home. I'm planning on pulling 100A from the in-laws, they only use AC and a heat pump, the rest is the TV. I've purchased a 125 Amp 12-Space 24-Circuit from Home Depot. I'm a 1 person shop. I'll have tons of toys (welder, lift, woodworking tools, and of course a beer fridge, microwave, and like 5 big screen TVs, but can't use more than 2 at a time, hence only the 100 Amps. The house is only 25-30 feet from the shop. I plan on running 2-2-2-4 through their attic from the panel to the closest point near the shop, then installing a 2" conduit under the gravel driveway. My friend has a nice trench digger so I'll be down 24" for good measure. I have 2 good friends who both have electrical contractor licenses so it will be a DIY project. All tools will be 20A, the lighting, TVs,
84KW is an immense amount of power. I think your estimations are very high.
Large Appliances:
Dryer: 5kW (Large dryer, Max heat)
Range: 15kW (Premium dual-oven electric range with literally every burner and both ovens on)
Hot Tub: 6kW (Pump and heaters running at once)
Welder: 7.5kW (Miller Multimatic 220 @ Full Power)
That's 33.5kW, vs your estimated 40.8. And what are the odds you would be having all 4 of those machines going, at full power, simultaneously? It's a scenario that will basically never happen.
Small Appliances:
14.4 kW is a monumental amount of power for "small appliances". That's 8 high-powered hair dryers running at once, or 12 microwaves, or 18 coffee makers, or 40 refrigerators. I honestly don't think it's really possible for a residential home to hit 14.4kW in "small appliance" power consumption unless there were 6 kitchens and 30 people living there.
A more "realistic" "peak" small appliance load would be more like 5kW, IMO. Hair dryer, toaster, microwave, coffee maker, fridge/freezer, blender - somehow running all at once.
"House":
"3000sq/ft house x 4.8W = 14400W", where is this even coming from, and what does that even mean? Is that things like lights and random stuff people might have plugged in? 14.4kW is a ludicrous number for the random widgets and doodads someone might plug in. 14.4 kW is enough power for 72 PlayStation 5s, or about 140 70" televisions or 1,400 "75W Equivalent" LED light bulbs.
In a modern house with LEDs, I think you would be hard-pressed to exceed 500w total lighting load - even with an attached shop. Add a few TVs, computers, game console, maybe someone using a vacuum cleaner - and I think your peak "House" load would really be around 2kW
HVAC:
14400W for HVAC sounds very high since you said you have propane for heat. At most, I would expect a modern 5 ton AC system (typical 3,000 square foot home system) to consume about 5kW.
--------------------------
So I'm calculating about 45.5kW or about 190A. If you get a gas range/oven, you're down to 127A. Add a gas dryer on top of that and now you're at 106A.
I don't think I will be able to run the 2-2-2-4 through the attic now. Vaulted ceilings and other issues. Now I'm thinking of running underground from the shop then up to the 8 foot roofline under the soffit. There is a 1x4 trim that runs all the way around. I've been trying to find out what type of cable, SER or MHF and in what type of conduit. I was also thinking of making a raceway (box) out of 1x1s and a parallel 1x4 then paint to match. Any ideas would be greatly apprciated. Compared to this part, wiring the inside of the shop will be a breeze.I'm thinking of the same thing. I have 2 homes on the property and just built my 900-square-foot shop. My main home has 400 amp and then it breaks out 200 to my in-laws 1,000 sf home. I'm planning on pulling 100A from the in-laws, they only use AC and a heat pump, the rest is the TV. I've purchased a 125 Amp 12-Space 24-Circuit from Home Depot. I'm a 1 person shop. I'll have tons of toys (welder, lift, woodworking tools, and of course a beer fridge, microwave, and like 5 big screen TVs, but can't use more than 2 at a time, hence only the 100 Amps. The house is only 25-30 feet from the shop. I plan on running 2-2-2-4 through their attic from the panel to the closest point near the shop, then installing a 2" conduit under the gravel driveway. My friend has a nice trench digger so I'll be down 24" for good measure. I have 2 good friends who both have electrical contractor licenses so it will be a DIY project. All tools will be 20A, the lighting, TVs,
Just run conduit end to end and use xhhw. No need for mhf if you aren't doing direct burial and SER can't be underground.I don't think I will be able to run the 2-2-2-4 through the attic now. Vaulted ceilings and other issues. Now I'm thinking of running underground from the shop then up to the 8 foot roofline under the soffit. There is a 1x4 trim that runs all the way around. I've been trying to find out what type of cable, SER or MHF and in what type of conduit. I was also thinking of making a raceway (box) out of 1x1s and a parallel 1x4 then paint to match. Any ideas would be greatly apprciated. Compared to this part, wiring the inside of the shop will be a breeze.


Builder, owner, electrician etc
Not the power co
What was the final bill for your complete service. Many guessed at it but I didn't see what the cost was. Did I miss it somewhere?Ah i see while I was away the measuring stick was brought out.
Ok, so the quote is back from the POCO - 168ft total - from the road, to the transformer, to the house. All underground trenched in rock, transformer, wiring, all the bits and bobs including design for 400A service...since there was a comment earlier, anyone care to take a crack at the total?
What was the final bill for your complete service. Many guessed at it but I didn't see what the cost was. Did I miss it somewhere?
What was the final bill for your complete service. Many guessed at it but I didn't see what the cost was. Did I miss it somewhere?
Seems like he challenged us to guess but now that it's done he won't tell us......LOL