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New Job as Tech.

Deafautotech

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Jan 5, 2007
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7,653
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
A piece of scaffold pole 4' or 5' long. Great for removing seized wheels and unlimited other uses.

NAH! why you need 4 or 5' long pipe if you already had snap on 3/4dr with 36" handle bar????

I had bought ratchet head, 30" handle bar as both ratchet head and handle are older model which new style are thicker... also i had bought the new 36" handle and breaker bar... so i am only tech in my ford shop that can break loose anything!!!! :lol_hitti
 
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Deafautotech

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Jan 5, 2007
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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
There are def. a lot of tool i see i have to purchase. As a entry level tech, i have no idea really the tasks im going to be set out to do other then tire rotations and oil changes (haha), so ya. i havent started yet. what kind of jobs are expected of me to be doing since a lot of you guys are suggesting all these tools for me to pick up. thanks.

i would recommend you to buy either service cart or regular 40" long wide box... NOT like my work's lube guy that just bought 7,000 dollars bottom box as snap on classic 96 triple box because he said he need room as his MSC4 has outgrow him... i told him as good luck on payments!! he said snap on guy make a nice payments for him so he can make payments. before he decide to buy, i told him if he has money to buy then pay full or NOT BUY IT! he decided to buy it... I am avoid to fiance on tools!!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/52200/52106.JPG
 
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Moose-LandTran

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Mar 8, 2008
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Location
The Brink of Insanity (England)
NAH! why you need 4 or 5' long pipe if you already had snap on 3/4dr with 36" handle bar????

I had bought ratchet head, 30" handle bar as both ratchet head and handle are older model which new style are thicker... also i had bought the new 36" handle and breaker bar... so i am only tech in my ford shop that can break loose anything!!!! :lol_hitti

I used it after i've removed the nuts/bolts. If the wheel is seized to the hub whack the tyre with the scaffold pole and it comes right off. Even the most seized wheels i've dealt with has come free after a couple "taps" from a scaffold pole. :thumbup:
 

Moose-LandTran

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i would recommend you to buy either service cart or regular 40" long wide box... NOT like my work's lube guy that just bought 7,000 dollars bottom box as snap on classic 96 triple box because he said he need room as his MSC4 has outgrow him... i told him as good luck on payments!! he said snap on guy make a nice payments for him so he can make payments. before he decide to buy, i told him if he has money to buy then pay full or NOT BUY IT! he decided to buy it... I am avoid to fiance on tools!!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/52200/52106.JPG

He needs a box that big as a lube tech? I do anything that comes through the door and even my tools don't fill my 40" KRA + side box. Still got plenty space in there. :confused:

Don't worry about boxes anyway, i used to work out of this just fine:

27052008050.jpg


Stood me in $80, for the trolley and two boxes. Before i moved up to this:

20072008097.jpg


Which wasn't expensive, served me very well and was then passed on to a friend when i found its replacement. :)
 
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muskaman67

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Jun 6, 2008
Messages
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i'm sure a decent size service cart will be fine for me. which one should i get? i dont want to feel like i have to go out and buy all these tools to fill up a big box even though i know im going to want to buy tools all the time!
 

Britwrench

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Apr 12, 2009
Messages
123
Location
Brighton UK
You should talk to the service manager or workshop controller and find out what you will be doing for the next six months or so, then you can budget and buy what you need.

Check what the dealer will supply, some of the European manufacturers (Porsche and Audi for example) are now supplying tools and are also ISO registered, which means that any measuring tools (torque wrenches etc) are calibrated and the dealer will supply them.

Take a walk around the shop and look at what the techs bought and ARE using, rather than remaining in the box and looking shiny.

The idea of a service car is excellent!! When or if you need a bigger box, the cart will be your "move around" box. Again, some of the manufacturers now supply boxes.

I would also buy a laptop or similar to make notes, start a "cheat sheet", so that as you progress you can refer back and have product knowledge (the most important part of being a tech) for known problems.

Good luck!!!
 
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muskaman67

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Messages
290
also, what kind of things am i going to be doing besides the things i listed. this is all out of curiousity.
 

olds88

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Sep 15, 2008
Messages
466
Location
New York, NY
one piece of equipment you should either save up to get or get your parents to get is a damn good pair of boots.

you will be spending hours in them daily. dont buy an el cheapo pair.

cheap boots = the equivalent to a cheap ratchet.

Boots are too hot in Florida. I am about 30 miles north of the OP and Florida is quite literally hell on earth. Can't wait to move back to NYC. Anyway, I use these steal toed sneakers from Sears: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_067B0024000P?mv=rr

They're comfortable, last me a year (they've been selling this style at least since 2004), and they're steal toed.
 

olds88

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New York, NY
also, what kind of things am i going to be doing besides the things i listed. this is all out of curiousity.

Never worked in a dealer, but at the gas station I do oil changes, tire rotations, batteries, timing belts, fan belts, radiator and heater hoses, intake manifolds (Ford 4.6s lol), fuel pumps, brakes, tires, transmission service (AT oil and filter change), clutches, engine swaps (my boss refuses to sell head gaskets, he's rather just swap i na junkyard engine), tune ups (plugs wires cap rotor), electrical trouble shooting, MIL troubleshooting (EVAP problems get sent down the road because we don't have a smoke machine and FL doesn't have state inspection anyway), diagnosing no-starts, AC compressors (they'll probably want you to get special training for this, I learned OTJ at the gas station), radiators, especially on Toyotas because ALL of those plastic radiator tanks leak eventually.

On any given week those are the jobs I basically do. Lots of other stuff I can't think of right now

They'll probably put you on as a lube tech first, where you will change the oil, rotate the tires if necessary (when the rear has more tread depth than the front), visually inspect the disc brake pads and clean and adjust rear drum brakes (many cars, even toyotas still have rear drums), test the battery, and replace if you get a go-ahead (which often means cleaning the throttle body on Toyotas, which are known not to start or idle lousy after the computer resets), check and replace the air filter if necessare, check tire pressures, etc.
 

Moose-LandTran

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He's apparently had bad luck with the bottom-end turning out to be bad in the past.

Unforseeable problem, you don't have to accept any responsibility for that. What guarantee does he have the the scrapper engine doesn't also have a knackered bottom end? Or that the customer won't drive a mile down the road and have the "new" engine blow the headgasket? If i took my car in for a headgasket and the shop would only put a junkyard engine in i'd take it somewhere they'd do the job properly. :)
 

olds88

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Unforseeable problem, you don't have to accept any responsibility for that. What guarantee does he have the the scrapper engine doesn't also have a knackered bottom end? Or that the customer won't drive a mile down the road and have the "new" engine blow the headgasket? If i took my car in for a headgasket and the shop would only put a junkyard engine in i'd take it somewhere they'd do the job properly. :)

The local junkyard give a year warranty on their engines.
 
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muskaman67

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Jun 6, 2008
Messages
290
Never worked in a dealer, but at the gas station I do oil changes, tire rotations, batteries, timing belts, fan belts, radiator and heater hoses, intake manifolds (Ford 4.6s lol), fuel pumps, brakes, tires, transmission service (AT oil and filter change), clutches, engine swaps (my boss refuses to sell head gaskets, he's rather just swap i na junkyard engine), tune ups (plugs wires cap rotor), electrical trouble shooting, MIL troubleshooting (EVAP problems get sent down the road because we don't have a smoke machine and FL doesn't have state inspection anyway), diagnosing no-starts, AC compressors (they'll probably want you to get special training for this, I learned OTJ at the gas station), radiators, especially on Toyotas because ALL of those plastic radiator tanks leak eventually.

On any given week those are the jobs I basically do. Lots of other stuff I can't think of right now

They'll probably put you on as a lube tech first, where you will change the oil, rotate the tires if necessary (when the rear has more tread depth than the front), visually inspect the disc brake pads and clean and adjust rear drum brakes (many cars, even toyotas still have rear drums), test the battery, and replace if you get a go-ahead (which often means cleaning the throttle body on Toyotas, which are known not to start or idle lousy after the computer resets), check and replace the air filter if necessare, check tire pressures, etc.

thanks. ya i have basic knowledge of how to work on cars. i do all the maintenance on my car plus do all the work to it myself along with all my friends. but when it comes to really gettin in depth with the maintenance aspect of it all i dont have much experience. im sure anything i take apart i can get it back together no problem so i think i will be ok. i know once the boss schedules me he will put me with someone prob the first day to make sure ill be ok.
 
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Merkava_4

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Dec 26, 2007
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Clovis, CA.
After awhile when I was a lube tech at Toyota, they had me mounting and balancing tires when there weren't any oil changes to do. The one thing I'd definitely do different is get an impact gun with a 6 inch anvil ... having to use an extension with a flip socket is pure unnecessary frustration. Go to flip your flip socket over, and that damn extension comes off with it. :mad:
 

olds88

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New York, NY
After awhile when I was a lube tech at Toyota, they had me mounting and balancing tires when there weren't any oil changes to do. The one thing I'd definitely do different is get an impact gun with a 6 inch anvil ... having to use an extension with a flip socket is pure unnecessary frustration. Go to flip your flip socket over, and that damn extension comes off with it. :mad:

Toyotas are all 21mm, no need for a flip socket.
 

Deafautotech

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Jan 5, 2007
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He needs a box that big as a lube tech? I do anything that comes through the door and even my tools don't fill my 40" KRA + side box. Still got plenty space in there. :confused:

Don't worry about boxes anyway, i used to work out of this just fine:

27052008050.jpg


Stood me in $80, for the trolley and two boxes. Before i moved up to this:

20072008097.jpg


Which wasn't expensive, served me very well and was then passed on to a friend when i found its replacement. :)


i dont know why!!! but i did warning him about it but he keep go ahead.... so well ... it is not my problems.
 

mattsvt

Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Messages
7
full size trucks are a different story, regardless, all the flip sockets I've seen are 19/21mm and 3/4 / 13/16

i work at a toyota dealership and i still use a flip socket, it's not unusual for a car to come in with a lug nut or two to be replaced at a independent shop with a 19mm. but no he really doesn't need a flip socket.
 

olds88

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Location
New York, NY
I have an extended anvil 1/2 impact and a couple flip sockets, the only time i used it is when I encounter a car that I don't know the size off the top of my head, such as Mitsubishi or Hyundai.

Toyota=21mm (13/16 may work on factory lugs but might not fit the McGard wheel lock key)
Crown Vic/Marquis/Town Car/Ford Trucks=13/16 or 21mm
Honda/Nissan/GM/Chrysler/FWD Ford=19mm / 3/4
GM full size trucks=7/8 / 22mm
Germans=17mm (anyone else HATE lug BOLTS with a passion?)

Anything else I'll grab the flip socket
 
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NeilH

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May 3, 2009
Messages
171
Location
UK
Boots are too hot in Florida. I am about 30 miles north of the OP and Florida is quite literally hell on earth. Can't wait to move back to NYC. Anyway, I use these steal toed sneakers from Sears: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_067B0024000P?mv=rr

They're comfortable, last me a year (they've been selling this style at least since 2004), and they're steal toed.


sorry, i use the term "boots" as a generic term.

i dont wear what you would describe as boots either. my feet sweat in them and they are too heavy i find.

i have these (but rebranded as mac tools):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAT-Caterpillar-Trainers-Steel-Toe-cap-Shoes-Boots-11_W0QQitemZ260384318919QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Clothing_Menswear_MensShoes_GL?hash=item3ca01d65c7&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

ps. your safety sneakers are sold over here branded as mac tools and are warrentied on the truck for 1 year no questions asked.
 

CarCrafter

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Jul 13, 2009
Messages
544
Location
Somewhere in the rust belt
right now i have a 154 pc. craftsman tool set. its something i got 2 years ago and has served me well for working on my vehicle. the only thing bad is that it only goes up to 18mm so i have to buy a few more sockets to finish the basic set out i would need. i have a full set of SK combo wrenches goin all the way to 24mm so i think im ok now. and all my ratchets i upgraded to snap on. i have both torx and hex drives to be used on rathchets. plus all the screwdrives i need. have all the pliers i need. my grandpa just got me the snap on CT4850HO impact gun. do you think i will have much use for it at the dealership beings that it is cordless and not air powered.

That cordless impact will be useful in the future.

Right now, it seems like you have some basic stuff to get started with. If I were in your shoes, I'd think about getting a couple of hammers, a 16oz and a 3#. A nice set of pry bars will go a long way. You'll need oil filter cap & pliers. Air inflator & gauge. At some point, you'll want to add some more sockets, concentrate on metric sizes only at this time. Extensions for your 3/8, then 1/2, and 1/4 after that. You'll want to get a decent 1/2 impact PDQ. Don't let the rest of the guys at work sweet talk you into getting the fanciest Snapon gun. Find yourself an IR231 or the IR2131. Get some 1/2 impact sockets, and a breaker bar as well. Some long reach pliers, hose clamp pliers.

If you've got a ton of money, buy the best. But if you've got a ton on money, why would you need a job? If you are a working grunt trying to pay your bills and make a living, buy what you can afford to with money you actually have. I like quality stuff as much as the next guy, but I see way too many techs out there who go belly up because they have too large a financial foot print to try and fill. SO and MAC and MATCO makes some nice stuff, but your financial situation will dictate what you can afford. You can get a loan with the trucks and get a huge box with lots of fancy stuff and WORK for your tool box the rest of your life, or you can buy as go. Unfortunately, this might mean getting something from Sears/ Craftsman or the Home Depot and having to run there and get replacements afterwork or at lunch. Guess what, the nice stuff will still be available when you have the money to upgrade. Right now, its a matter of getting as much as you can with as little money as possible. Check out the local pawn shops and see what they have. Whatever you get, make sure someone will warranty it. Sears is pretty good about exchanging sockets. There are some things you can get imported, but some I definitely wouldn't trust. Some guys out there would be a nobody without their box. Hell, some don't know how to use the tools they already have. Tools are great, but skills and knowledge to use those tools are better. Don't get me wrong, I love my Macsimizer, but I wouldn't want to pay for it when I first started out. I have a good friend who is a Toyota Master Tech who has a huge tool bill. He is now thinking about down sizing from his monstrosity of a box because work has slowed to a trickle. You want to talk about his pride taking a hit. Start off on the right foot with some sound judgment and you'll go a long way.
 

speed bump

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May 28, 2008
Messages
6,317
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Butte Montana
i would recommend you to buy either service cart or regular 40" long wide box... NOT like my work's lube guy that just bought 7,000 dollars bottom box as snap on classic 96 triple box because he said he need room as his MSC4 has outgrow him... i told him as good luck on payments!! he said snap on guy make a nice payments for him so he can make payments. before he decide to buy, i told him if he has money to buy then pay full or NOT BUY IT! he decided to buy it... I am avoid to fiance on tools!!

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/52200/52106.JPG

Man he got boned at that price. Its $5500 retail and was on sale at the beginning of the month for under $4000 (at least it was on the dealers truck). After that he probably should of been able to get $500 trade on his old cart.
 

Deafautotech

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Indianapolis, Indiana
Man he got boned at that price. Its $5500 retail and was on sale at the beginning of the month for under $4000 (at least it was on the dealers truck). After that he probably should of been able to get $500 trade on his old cart.

well i was told that he had his new snap on box on fianced... he has MSC4 cart but i think he sold it to other lube tech...

i did told him to watch out what he buy... that is lot of money to me even i could buy giant box for cheapest price than snap on's... BUT all i can do is nothing... it is his problem... right now i am proud of myself to own a lot of tools and giant snap on boxes, matco cart, and 40in full wide drawers at no debt or OWE money....
 

LostHSV

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Sep 18, 2009
Messages
37
Location
Alabama
You can get a loan with the trucks and get a huge box with lots of fancy stuff and WORK for your tool box the rest of your life, or you can buy as go. Unfortunately, this might mean getting something from Sears/ Craftsman or the Home Depot and having to run there and get replacements afterwork or at lunch. Guess what, the nice stuff will still be available when you have the money to upgrade. Right now, its a matter of getting as much as you can with as little money as possible. ....... Tools are great, but skills and knowledge to use those tools are better. Don't get me wrong, I love my Macsimizer, but I wouldn't want to pay for it when I first started out. I have a good friend who is a Toyota Master Tech who has a huge tool bill. He is now thinking about down sizing from his monstrosity of a box because work has slowed to a trickle. You want to talk about his pride taking a hit. Start off on the right foot with some sound judgment and you'll go a long way.

This is the best advice in this entire thread. Part of the reason our economy is in the shape it's in is because people buy things they can't afford. Get by with what you have cash to pay for and borrow where necessary. Learn to live on less than what you make. Don't try to be what you're not and learn from the old guys in the shop who have wisdom and experience as their tools.
 

illmatyk

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Sep 6, 2009
Messages
778
Location
Yigo, Guam
When i started as i tech i just used a tool cart with a single drawer with a closingg top. I also put my 3 drawer top box on the table to hold some of my tools.

As far as buying, i buy as i go or if i feel that i need that tool. Also, if you borrow a tool more then once, its best to invest in that tool.

If your gonna worried about how people will treat you about your tool storage, dont be. I had a guy teasing me when i first started that my top box on the table was "cute", I opened his 7 drawer Homack box and he barely has anything!

Other than that, enjoy the job:thumbup:
 
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muskaman67

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Jun 6, 2008
Messages
290
^ yeah i know im going to be all worried about my storage when i decide to grab one. i dont feel like dropping a few thousand on a tool box right now so i prob have to use a little tool cart for a while unfortunately. and everyone, thanks for the responses.
 
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