New Lathe

[1oldtimer]

I always wanted one and found what I think is a good deal, I need some input. I bought it for $400, I made sure it worked and the ways were sort of straight. He said he replace some bushings, the motor with a Baldor 3/4hp and the on/off switch........and of course painted it. It came with some gears, tools, a 3 and 4 jaw, a live center, face plate and he's trying to find the drill bit chuck. From the numbers I think it's from 1928 and a junior series.

Anyhow not knowing much about lathes (yet ), did I do ok??

 

[zkling]

It will be a good basic learning lathe. Not much to screw up, yet still of substantial size to practice with. Does look like an old south bend 9" Junior. Looks to be in pretty good condition and pretty well tooled. Maybe all you will need is a chuck for the tail stock and a few other tool holders. That is based on what is pictured. Good to have the face plates, both chucks and change gears. I like the color scheme.

 

[CoopVA]

Looks nice. It does look a lot like my 9" SB...

Concerns me that the ways are "sorta straight". They need to be really straight...

 

[1oldtimer]

Looks nice. It does look a lot like my 9" SB...

Concerns me that the ways are "sorta straight". They need to be really straight...

Forgot my straight edge so I used a less the steller yard stick. I felt them and didn't feel any dips but I'll check them tomorrow night after I get my straight edge from work.

I really only wanted something for smaller work because my garage is PACKED. I know the person I bought it from and if I need bigger things made he has bigger and more equipment at his shop.

 

[zkling]

Forgot my straight edge so I used a less the steller yard stick. I felt them and didn't feel any dips but I'll check them tomorrow night after I get my straight from work.

I really only wanted something for smaller work because my garage is PACKED. I know the person I bought it from and if I need bigger things made he has bigger and more equipment at his shop.

To check a lathe bed? O brother. I think it will be a very good learning lathe and then some.

 

[CoopVA]

You'll be able to tell better once you set it up and level it... Looks like you got a great deal.

 

[sasquatch12]

For $400.00 you got a good deal. A fair bit of tooling with it along with the chucks. Most importanly is, it appears all the change gears are there. I agree it does look very similar to an older South Bend. You will get your money back out of that if you decide to upgrade someday.
Depending on what you wish to machine, some wear on the bed ways isn't 100% serious, lots of people are still working on old lathes with worn bed ways and doing good work. You just have to learn it's intracsies (Spelling.)

 

[CoopVA]

For $400.00 you got a good deal. A fair bit of tooling with it along with the chucks. Most importanly is, it appears all the change gears are there. I agree it does look very similar to an older South Bend. You will get your money back out of that if you decide to upgrade someday.
Depending on what you wish to machine, some wear on the bed ways isn't 100% serious, lots of people are still working on old lathes with worn bed ways and doing good work. You just have to learn it's intracsies (Spelling.)

Very true. My lathe was made in the early 1940s, and got used... My ways aren't bad, but they are not perfect... I've trued receivers and chambered barrels with it. It's all in the set up and knowing your machine.

 

[1oldtimer]

To check a lathe bed? O brother. I think it will be a very good learning lathe and then some.

Yup, it was official .....if it's off I can use wood shims right?

Now the fun begins, reading,trying and learning. Mainly bought it for car stuff.

 

[sasquatch12]

Run it and have fun, make some chips!
(Better than watching the dumb **** on TV any day!!) LOl

 

[John in OH]

It would have to be a real pile of junk to not be worth $400! I'm guessing it has about 18" between centers and with a 9" swing you will be able to do some "real" work with it. It doesn't appear to have a thread cutting dial, but, as others have pointed out, it has some nice accessories and should provide you with a lot of fun!

You did fine!

 

[1oldtimer]

I just noticed I forgot to take a picture of the small box of tools it came with.

 

[paulsomlo]

Here's a link to what may be the correct catalog: http://www.wswells.com/data/catalog/1931_Jr_Cat_No.22C/1931_Jr_Cat_No.22C.pdf

The countershaft assembly is probably not original - they didn't offer the adjustable version until the late 30's, I believe. If you give me the serial number, I can get fairly close on the date of manufacture. If you look at the tailstock end of the bed, between the front v-way and the flat way, you'll see most likely a five digit number stamped into the horizontal surface. Also, if you look at the inside of the bed, you'll see a casting date. Get yourself some proper oil for the gears, ways, and headstock - here's a link: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/south-bend-recommended-lubricants-238033/. You'll want the "way" oil, type A, and type C. If you have questions, and you will, the South Bend forum on the Practical Machinist website is a good place to be.

 

[John in OH]

I just noticed I forgot to take a picture of the small box of tools it came with.

It's not too late!

 

[1oldtimer]

Here's a link to what may be the correct catalog: http://www.wswells.com/data/catalog/1931_Jr_Cat_No.22C/1931_Jr_Cat_No.22C.pdf

The countershaft assembly is probably not original - they didn't offer the adjustable version until the late 30's, I believe. If you give me the serial number, I can get fairly close on the date of manufacture. If you look at the tailstock end of the bed, between the front v-way and the flat way, you'll see most likely a five digit number stamped into the horizontal surface. Also, if you look at the inside of the bed, you'll see a casting date. Get yourself some proper oil for the gears, ways, and headstock - here's a link: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/south-bend-recommended-lubricants-238033/. You'll want the "way" oil, type A, and type C. If you have questions, and you will, the South Bend forum on the Practical Machinist website is a good place to be.

Thanks, the numbers on the bed are 38954 A. I'll check on the date code, right now it's still in the truck covered in the driveway until I make room in the garage.

 

[Steinmetz]

Forgot my straight edge so I used a less the steller yard stick. I felt them and didn't feel any dips but I'll check them tomorrow night after I get my straight edge from work.

I really only wanted something for smaller work because my garage is PACKED. I know the person I bought it from and if I need bigger things made he has bigger and more equipment at his shop.

The kinds of troublesome wear that ma be encountered on lathe ways would not be detectable with a yardstick.

 

[1oldtimer]

The kinds of troublesome wear that ma be encountered on lathe ways would not be detectable with a yardstick.

What should I be looking for other then straightness across the tops of the flats and what would be considered acceptable wear.

 

[paulsomlo]

The serial number puts the date of manufacture around June 1928.

Generally, bed wear would manifest itself through ridges along the top of the v-ways near the headstock, where the carriage rides.

 

[1oldtimer]

Ok, friends came over and it's in the garage. I think this is the date cast inside (15 28 ?). I'm going to bring my straight edge home and check the ways. I still have to put the belt on.

 

[spongerich]

Just a couple of things.

Your bench looks a little light.. a heavy rigid top can make a big difference to a small lathe. I'd be on the lookout for a chunk of bowling alley or butcher block to put on top of there.

Getting the lathe mounted level (actually, level is less important than just "not twisted"). If you can borrow a machinist's level, that's the easiest way.

If not, here's a pretty good trick that looks like it should work well...

Lastly, you want to be extra careful not to crash that lathe or use the back gears to hold the spindle when changing chucks. The 9 Juniors are nice, but parts are hard to come by.

 

[Steinmetz]

What should I be looking for other then straightness across the tops of the flats and what would be considered acceptable wear.

Check the dimensional variation between the lathe axis and the tool location as the carrriage is moved along the bed. You will need a dial indicator for this, not a yard stick.

 

[Alchymist]

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Rollies-Dads-Method-of-Lathe-Alignment.pdf

 

[paulsomlo]

That casting date looks about right, although it should be a month, day, year format. Mine is cast into the bed near the tailstock end. The date indicates when the bed would have been ready to be machined, having been cast 6 months to a year prior, allowing the casting to "settle" out.

 

[1oldtimer]

Just a couple of things.

Your bench looks a little light.. a heavy rigid top can make a big difference to a small lathe. I'd be on the lookout for a chunk of bowling alley or butcher block to put on top of there.

Getting the lathe mounted level (actually, level is less important than just "not twisted"). If you can borrow a machinist's level, that's the easiest way.

If not, here's a pretty good trick that looks like it should work well...

Lastly, you want to be extra careful not to crash that lathe or use the back gears to hold the spindle when changing chucks. The 9 Juniors are nice, but parts are hard to come by.

Thank you for the info, the table is an old (60's) desk and is all metal with a formica top. I'm still looking for an old metal shop table to bolt to the floor.

That casting date looks about right, although it should be a month, day, year format. Mine is cast into the bed near the tailstock end. The date indicates when the bed would have been ready to be machined, having been cast 6 months to a year prior, allowing the casting to "settle" out.

Thanks, so it would be 1-5-1928. It looks like it's cast into both side on the inside.

 

[1oldtimer]

I finally checked the ways with a straight edge and a feeler gauge. I saw some light shine through but couldn't put the .010 gauge in (smallest one). It's all cleaned up, has a new flat belt and it ready to go. Looks like it might work for my first lathe.

 

[1oldtimer]

One question, he hasn't found the chuck attachment yet. If I need to buy one what is the taper I need, is it MT2 or something else.

 

[1oldtimer]

Bought a used machinery manual and it's a MT2 for the tail stock. The adapter for the 3 jaw was bent, so I bought a machinable adapter from Grizzly.

 

[1oldtimer]

Up and almost running, just have to finish the adapter. Some more tooling, a quickie shelf and a chip pan (not pictured).