New Linley Jig Bore group

[ksierens]

Hey Guys,

I have mentioned here that I had picked up a Linley Jig Bore in the spring, and have finally gotten around to starting the restoration. Since there is not much information on these great little machines, I thought I would start a Yahoo Group.

If you have one of these machines, or or interested in them, you can check it out here:

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/linleyjigbore/info

Thanks, Kurt

 

[thieltech]

tried to view it but cant see nothing .

hope you dont have to be a member to view it .

you show do the rebuild pics and description here on garage journal !!

Would really like to see the rebuild !

 

[ksierens]

Sorry, yes you have to be a member, but I will post some pictures here also.

 

[ksierens]

I finally finished the restoration of my Linley and got it down into my shop. I still need to make thumb screws for the X and Y axes and probably a belt guard, but I am happy with it. My brother-in-law gave me the Bridgeport #2 boring head, so that was a bonus!

Below are some pictures, and I also updated pictures of my shop at:

http://s168.photobucket.com/user/ksierens/library/Shop/Kurts Shop?sort=6&page=1

 

[j p smith]

Very Nice!

 

[Bunk]

Great job and beautiful shop. Love the Benchmaster, did you restore that one as well?

 

[ksierens]

Thanks, yes, the Benchmaster was already repainted, so I did not feel bad about painting it again. I would prefer to have the original paint, just because it shows it's life, but when they are really abused, what are you going to do.

 

[PETE14]

Beautiful shop - squeaky clean.

What kind of projects do you work on?

 

[ksierens]

Thanks, clean in those pictures, and my wife and I recently stripped and re-waxed the floor. Since my shop is in my basement, I keep things up so I do not drag chips through the house, but, it gets plenty dirty.
Mostly been making parts to support the other machines, but I am also restoring a 1970 Challenger, and my daughter has a 1940's house. I will be starting on a Quick Change Gear Box for my 6" Craftsman lathe soon though.

 

[gol4]

I don't recall seeing a post by you in the OCD thread that was going around last week

Your shop is beautiful, clean and well organized. How long have you been accumulating your equipment and tooling?

 

[ksierens]

Thanks, and yes, I would admit I am a little OCD. Some thinks I have had a very long time, but most of the machines I have gotten within the past 5 years.

 

[410John]

I know this is an old thread, but I have a Linley jig bore machine. Messed with it bunch when I first got it. Then life intervened and I haven’t touched it in two years.

 

[RoninB4]

-The Linley is a nice machine, albeit a bit small. I had a chance to buy one from a friend but he only had two collets, they're a bit expensive to buy so I passed on the machine. The table movement was quite smooth.

 

[410John]

I found that 3AT lathe collets fit. Just have to shorten them a bit. I have to get back to this machine. I’ve just been busy. I have a few collets, plus the 3AT’s.

 

[RoninB4]

I found that 3AT lathe collets fit. Just have to shorten them a bit.

-Interesting, didn't know that. Like this one?



-How much of the threaded portion needs removal? I liked the Linley for the smaller footprint, I ended up with a Mitsui-Seiki 3B jig borer but it has a considerably larger footprint. That's a good and bad thing. Would enjoy seeing your Linley whenever you're finished.

 

[410John]

I don’t remember how much I cut off. I think all the threads. I wasn’t precise.

 

[410John]

I found those pics in my phone from when I first got the machine. The machine was at my Father’s. When he passes I had to get it out of his garage. It’s was In a boat shop that we rented that rented a shop from us. So, I been aware of this machine since the early 90’s. There were a collection of collets, but they mistakenly got sold at an estate sale.
Here’s a pic when it was at my Father’s

 

[RoninB4]

-With the inherent accuracy potential of any jug borer what do you use it for? Yeah I'm being nosy so you don't have to answer that question. As a retired toolmaker I'm just curious about what others do. I've used several brands of jig borers and wish I used mine more.

 

[410John]

I’m not sure it the bed is level. I eventually plan on using my VW fly cutter with this machine. Maybe slot some holes. I know it’s not a milling machine. But, it sure looks like one.

 

[RoninB4]

I’m not sure it the bed is level.

-The one my friend had was out. The column wasn't perpendicular to the table when I did an indicator sweep of spindle-to-table. The lead screw was butter smooth and appeared to be in good working order. So.....we removed the column from the base and found a couple of odd shims that were NOT machine shims (they look different). I shimmed it back as best as I could with what he had and he called it good for the handmade bicycle frames he made. The column isn't difficult to remove (4 bolts?) but it's not something you want to bare hand by yourself. It's not terribly heavy, just clumsy to gently set down back on the base so you don't raise a ding on the critical mating surfaces.

I eventually plan on using my VW fly cutter with this machine.

-A fly cutter for VW heads? I suppose it depends upon the depth of cut and what type of material you're cutting. None of the single column jig borers were very good for side thrust cutting, even the Moore's (VERY good jig borer) weren't very good at it. The milling option was more for cutting a witness mark and were only a few .001's deep. The gantry type jig borers/mills were much better at this but I still don't take more than .007-.012 when I do this. If you're going to use a fly cutter (single tool bit type?) then you better make sure the column is perpendicular to the table or you'll have leading/trailing marks. Sweep/tram the spindle to table. Just a suggestion.

Maybe slot some holes. I know it’s not a milling machine. But, it sure looks like one.

-For slotting holes I would suggest plunging the end mill for the majority of the slot, leaving a minimal amount on the sides for a cleanup walk when milling with the side of the end mill. Even on a Bridgeport I prefer plunge/move/plunge when slotting. Less chance of overloading the end mill sides or clogging the flutes that leads to re-cutting the chips. Single column jig borers can leave a bad surface finish on the slot walls (vibration). The Linley will cut cleaner by plunging out the majority of the material that needs to be removed. Just another suggestion.

 

[410John]

That all makes sense. I have to get back on this project. This pic is a junk head that experimented with. The head is actually just sitting there. I did make a fixture to hold it down. I’m actually out of sharp cutting blades.

 

[RoninB4]

-You're out of sharp cutting blades? What are you using? All my fly cutters just use a standard square tool bit of HSS that I grind the geometry I want on the end.

 

[410John]

1/4 X 1/2 x 1.250 HSS. Maybe you can give me some grinding guidance. These VW shops want $50 a blade. Here’s a pic from a supplier.

 

[RoninB4]

1/4 X 1/2 x 1.250 HSS.

-Pretty standard to use a square blank but yours are rectangular and are more difficult/expensive to buy. I see no reason to use a rectangular blank. You can either get a different fly cutter that accepts a more standard square bit or just simply put two 1/4" bits in the slot to take up the excess space. I'd have to see a photo of the fly cutter opening to advise but it's not complicated or difficult to change the tooling to suit your application.

Maybe you can give me some grinding guidance.

-Sure, wouldn't mind at all. Do you have a bench grinder? You'll need one but you can re-sharpen any of these without much trouble once you understand what clearance is. Have these worked well for you or do they go dull quickly? Are you just cutting a cast aluminum head? I'll need to see a photo or drawing of:

1) the fly cutter opening where the bits mount
2) the fly cutter mounted in the machine (with a cutting bit in it) and the cutting edge just barley touching a surface waiting to be cut

-I want the photo/drawing so I can mark up an explanation in photo editing of what you need to do. The photo/drawing of the machine mounted operation should show the front and then the side (2 photos/drawings) of the cutting action. Have I explained this clear enough?

These VW shops want $50 a blade.

-That price is insanely high for ordinary HSS. there are different flavors of HSS. You can pay a lot for T-15 or M-35 but I don't think you'll need either of those with aluminum since you're not doing factory level production, you're fly cutting, can re-sharpen your own bits, and you're just cutting cast aluminum. You have the best of all possible conditions for low cost machining.

Here’s a pic from a supplier.

-You can do a touch-up on the bench grinder for what you have and not buy new replacement bits for some time. What you absolutely need is a bench grinder, an aluminum oxide grinding wheel, and a way to dress the grinding wheel. I don't feel that a lot of cash needs to be spent on any of the above. Yes better equipment often means better results but the cutting edge of a fly cutter isn't terribly fussy so most any type of grinder/wheel can work. I need to know what equipment and experience you have in order to advise. When you understand how to create a cutting edge and proper clearance you'll be able to sharpen drill bits or just about any type of cutting tool.

 

[410John]

Thanks for all your input thus far. I stumbled on this thread, but I’m not ready to take on my Linley project. I’ll let you know when I have the time to invest in it. Right now, I’m building an engine for my Beetle. It’s been sitting for 2.5 years and I want to drive it in the spring.