New metal garage plan

[sgf13]

After writing a long detailed thread I learned I couldn't upload from Photo Bucket anymore and the delay in finding a new photo resource took too long. GJ locked and away went the post. Here's the short version.

I am in Eastern NC. We have more hot than cold weather although we do have occasional sub 32F temps on occasion. I want ease of maint. in my new workshop and the ability to handle our hurricanes and moist ground from frequent rain. Last building was 36'x26'x8' stick built with T-111 siding. This time I am leaning towards 40'x45'10' metal, although I haven't committed yet.

Here are a few of my many questions.

1.Has anyone had experience with Superior Metal Structures & Concrete out of Beaulaville NC? I looked at a building they built this summer that is being used commercially. The owner, like me, realized there is always something better if you pay more but he is very pleased with what he got. I shared some photos here so you'd see the type of construction I am talking about.

2. I am concerned that there will be a lot of extra cost with metal, like conduit and freestanding shelving or the installation of nailable wall surfaces but I really want to stay away from wood in this build if I can. Anyone found cost effective ways to deal with this?

3. I had the standard florescent shop lights in the shop I built. The man who's building I went to see installed LED tube lights but he said it added $700 in cost! He has 14' ceilings so felt it was worth it. I am open to lighting ideas since I never really liked the fluorescents I installed in the previous shop. They were dim when cold and always flickering or burning out so I am open to any cost effective options that work well. I am older now and it seems that lighting matters more to me now than it once did.

4. Any input on your experience with this type building would be appreciated.

Sorry the one photo is sideways. The photo storage program is doing that and I don't have it dialed in yet.

 

[73RR]

All steel would be nice and galvanized will certainly keep the 'brown-stuff' at bay, but how does it all fit in your budget?
Once the structure is up and you are working in it does the type of construction have a big impact? I think that meeting the needs of wind/snow/unbearable heat would be the focus and the type of structure would follow based on budget.


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[sgf13]

All steel would be nice and galvanized will certainly keep the 'brown-stuff' at bay, but how does it all fit in your budget?
Once the structure is up and you are working in it does the type of construction have a big impact? I think that meeting the needs of wind/snow/unbearable heat would be the focus and the type of structure would follow based on budget.


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If I keep the size at the size I posted it will fit the budget, with one caveat. That is the cost of electrical. When I built my previous shop I did all the wiring except for the main connection. No conduit was involved. This time I'll need an electrician to do the install. I'd call for a quote but I really can't right now since I don't have enough details yet. I do know I'll need some overhead outlets for my retractible drop cords and trouble light and of course lighting. I also need 50 amp service for my welders. Beyond that it's pretty much outlets.

Once everything is in place the type of construction won't have a big impact, unless, I want to add something later. Adding an outlet or shelf later would be more involved but probably still worth it to save on other building maintenance later on.

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[markmcj]

just asking, if you did the electrical in the last building why would you need to hire it out just because of the conduit?
Conduit is not difficult.

 

[sgf13]

just asking, if you did the electrical in the last building why would you need to hire it out just because of the conduit?
Conduit is not difficult. [emoji481]

Mostly because of time. I don't have much of it anymore and my experience with metal conduit is very limited. I worry that the bending & fitting will take a lot longer than I anticipate.

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[aka Larry]

Have you seen my building? See the link in my signature below. I'm near Wilson, NC.

 

[robertlynk]

Run mc cable quick and easy. Also put 4way switches for lighting. Also door openers outlets

 

[sgf13]

Have you seen my building? See the link in my signature below. I'm near Wilson, NC.

Not only have I not seen your building, I don't even see your signature with the link! I'd like to see it though.

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[kaiser715]

Conduit can be a pain to work with, but after about 5 bends you have it (mostly) figured out. Simple enough....you'll mostly be doing 90* bends at corners/ceiling, and offsets for boxes. I am fixing to wire my new shop, all surface mount in emt...looking about 650-700' total by the time it's all done.

 

[Old IH Guy]

Have you seen my building? See the link in my signature below. I'm near Wilson, NC.

Your pictures are gone $^^%$$

 

[zcar751]

I put up a metal building in Tennessee and I can tell you that insulation is critical. I didn't have insulation for the first four years I owned the building and it was a miserable place to work. It was too hot if the outside temp was over 75 and the sun was out. When it rained I had to leave because it was deafening. I finally saved up enough to have the ceiling spray foamed and it made it a usable space. I also studded the walls and insulated them then put up dry wall for a more finished look. All of our shops at work have the plastic covered insulation and it looks nice for a while but eventually it splits and gets nasty.

For lighting florescent lighting is the most economical. The key to shop lighting is make sure you get cold start fixtures. They cost a little more but they don't have to warm up in the cold. LED lighting is nice and will last longer but don't believe all the hype. I have put several LED lights in my house and have had to replace a couple already while some of the compact florescent bulbs have kept on going.

 

[AP514]

Quote:
Originally Posted by aka Larry View Post
Have you seen my building? See the link in my signature below. I'm near Wilson, NC.
Your pictures are gone $^^%$$

That is because PHOTOBUCKET Will not let others see your PIC's unless you pay $300 plus a year. You the Photo poster can look and see them but others can not....
I Say the HELL with Photobucket..

 

[markmcj]

Mostly because of time. I don't have much of it anymore and my experience with metal conduit is very limited. I worry that the bending & fitting will take a lot longer than I anticipate.

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I can certainly understand the time issue. Same boat and all of the that.

When I work with conduit, I buy all of the pre bent corners and weird stuff I might need. It is cheaper that buying the tooling.

 

[sgf13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by aka Larry View Post
Have you seen my building? See the link in my signature below. I'm near Wilson, NC.
Your pictures are gone $^^%$$

That is because PHOTOBUCKET Will not let others see your PIC's unless you pay $300 plus a year. You the Photo poster can look and see them but others can not....
I Say the HELL with Photobucket..

I'm with you. The Internet is covered with broken photo icons because of this. That is the reason why when many of my peers in IT tout the virtues of freeware etc. I always pass on it for applications we must depend on. Photobucket is the classic example of this. You pay the ransom or suffer. I have no issue with them changing their model but the way it was done stinks.

I posted the pictures in the original post using www.cubeupload.com. I used it the first time for this thread so I have no experience to recommend it. I can say the sign up wasn't't intrusive and although basic the software is easy to use. The one issue I had was not being able to rotate the one photo. That is likely a learning curve thing.

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[sgf13]

I put up a metal building in Tennessee and I can tell you that insulation is critical. I didn't have insulation for the first four years I owned the building and it was a miserable place to work. It was too hot if the outside temp was over 75 and the sun was out. When it rained I had to leave because it was deafening. I finally saved up enough to have the ceiling spray foamed and it made it a usable space. I also studded the walls and insulated them then put up dry wall for a more finished look. All of our shops at work have the plastic covered insulation and it looks nice for a while but eventually it splits and gets nasty.

For lighting florescent lighting is the most economical. The key to shop lighting is make sure you get cold start fixtures. They cost a little more but they don't have to warm up in the cold. LED lighting is nice and will last longer but don't believe all the hype. I have put several LED lights in my house and have had to replace a couple already while some of the compact florescent bulbs have kept on going.

I had three choices of insulation, the standard foil covered bubble wrap common to these buildings, R9 & R10. I opted for R9 on my quote.

The jury is still out on lighting. I never was very pleased with the florescent lights in the shop I built. They worked but weren't as bright as I'd hoped. Like most everyone else I want bright, full coverage and cheap. Never an easy combination.

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[sgf13]

Run mc cable quick and easy. Also put 4way switches for lighting. Also door openers outlets

Any idea how the mc cable stacks up in price when compared to THHN run in conduit? The mc isn't cheap but when you start adding conduit connectors, etc I can see how things can quickly balance out.

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[My Old Tools]

I'm on my third metal shop building. All of mine have been red iron heavy i-beam construction with C-channel purlins. Mine is 30x40x12 with a 6/12 pitch and a 20x30 loft also out of red iron, clear span. This latest one I had the builder design in a center I-beam that runs the length of the building dead center. I mounted a 1 ton hoist on a trolley on it. It makes loading or moving heavy stuff a breeze. Conduit adds minimal cost compared to Romex.

 

[Sychotix57]

I had mine built by Superior metal structures and concrete. For the budget that I had it's as good as I can get
I'm in the Rocky Mount, NC area

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[sgf13]

I had mine built by Superior metal structures and concrete. For the budget that I had it's as good as I can get
I'm in the Rocky Mount, NC area

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Were you pleased with Superior? I like the red iron buildings better but I'll get more space for the money with this prefab style. Did Superior sub-contract the electrical or did you handle that?

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[Sychotix57]

Electrical is done myself. 60amp service.
Not really anything to complain about.
My trusses are 4ft centered instead of 5ft.
(Pretty happy about that)

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[sgf13]

I gave my down payment on my new building today. They say it'll be 4-5 weeks before the dirt work and concrete begin.

For those interested in details here are some. The concrete will have fiber mixed in and they will use screening and a vapor barrier under the slab. I also opted for 12" inch rebar reinforced footers, no frost heave in our area.

The building will be 40 x 45 x 10 with R9 insulation. There will be an insulated roll up 8 x 10 roll up door at both ends, one people door and two windows. The only reason for the windows is to facilitate a window A/C in each. I know there a better options but I can't have everything and still maintain a reasonable budget. That was also the case with the siding. I wanted the metal roofing and siding hung vertically but for budget reasons ended up with vertically hung roofing to permit better rain flow and horizontal siding. That was a tough concession for me but the difference was $4,000 and I just wasn't willing to pay that.

Now I have to decide if I want to epoxy coat the concrete. The building will be used as a hobby farm shop and not a show piece. I will weld, work on equipment and do woodworking in it so maybe coatings aren't' necessary. I'll be reading threads on this to help answer that question.

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