new Michigan guy here...36x48 garage input

[gmgrunt]

Hi guys, I've been hunting around on the forums looking for info and opinions for a new garage....tons of great info on the pages.

I'm looking to build a 36 x 48 x 12 garage with 8/12 pitch attic trusses for 2nd floor storage and room. I have read many threads and it appears the guys who have in floor radiant heat love it and wouldn't have it any other way.

I plan on running a load bearing wall down the right side out 12 feet from the outside wall to create a 12 x 48 strip to put a 10x12 office space up in the front corner, followed by a 8x8 bathroom w/shower next to it...leaving a 12x30 left for my lathes, mill, pullmax, drillpress, bandsaw...etc,metal working tools. Thinking that dividing it up a bit will keep my machinery cleaner and provide a load bearing wall that will help carry the attic trusses so they are only clear spanning 24'. That will leave me two 12' x 48 bays, one for a lift and the other side I would like a lift beam/trolley for loading unloading heavy items.

open to ideas and criticism....fire away! Jeff

 

[ShiftedSolutions]

I think the space sounds great. I think its important to have some division not only for cleanliness but for organization. I am from Alma, MI, where about are you located?

 

[theoldwizard1]

I plan on running a load bearing wall down the right side out 12 feet from the outside wall

That is good because it cuts the span down to 24' which will reduce costs of the trusses.

It does mean you are going to need a custom designed attic truss but don't let that scare you. An engineer will design it and get is approved and most truss factories can build anything that is drawn.

You may want to consider wither a scissors truss or a vaulted parallel cord truss. A benefit of both is that you do not need to make your inner wall load bearing, but you would need either wooden I beams or parallel cord truss for the ceiling/2nd story floor.

 

[fflintstone]

Hi, welcome from mid michigan.
IMO 24' is not wide enought for 2 bays. perfect of a single bay but if you are going to work on two cars side by side forget it. the standard footprint of a 2 post lift is just over 12' wide. idealy you want to walk around both sides of the post. I could not swing it.

IMO the 12' is to narrow for a machine room.

I am in mid michigan and have a 32' x 48' x 12' shop and is sort of open with only an 8 x 8 office in the corner.

I wish I could have afforded the pex when I pored my floor. I barely had the cost of the concrete.

 

[larry_g]

Sounds something like what I tried to do. Look at my build below. My machine shop is 12x36 and the main shop area is 36x36. The room above the shop is also 12x36.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[gmgrunt]

Thanks for the input.....fflintstone how wide do you think each bay should be? bump it to 40 wide for two 14' bays? I'm still in the design stage so I welcome input to get this as right as I can. Thanks, Jeff

 

[fflintstone]

Thanks for the input.....fflintstone how wide do you think each bay should be? bump it to 40 wide for two 14' bays? I'm still in the design stage so I welcome input to get this as right as I can. Thanks, Jeff

That would help, I would consider going the other way, 48 wide and only 40 deep. I would bump the machine room to 14 wide then have 32-33 for the 2 bays.


Quite honestly I would go 32 x 48 x 16 high. Put a mezzanine in the back 16' have a 16 x 32 x 8 for the office/machine/bath and then 16 x 32 x 7 for storage above. Then 32 x 32 as a shop.


I didnt build my shop, it was here when I bought the acerage.

 

[gmgrunt]

I stopped by Menards after work today and got a rough quote for 36x48x13 post framed residential building. A 8x9 and 16x10 garage door in the gable end with a 3' entrance door, 4 windows, vinyl siding and a asphalt shingle roof, 8/12 attic trusses for 2nd floor storage....total $21,600, sound about right? I see from doing a search that $5 sq/ft for a slab = $8640. So that puts me a bit north of 30K. What would one expect to pay to have a polebarn package erected? 10k? more ore less? Jeff

 

[ITSWILL]

I got a quote from the Menards In Davison for a 40 X 50 x 14 with Gambrel room in attic trusses recently with 6 windows a single insulated 16x12 ft door and an entry door, no insulation, steel roof and walls for $23k. I priced 5 places and they all came in right around $23k.

 

[gmgrunt]

I've read on this forum about spray foam of 2" to seal up building ,followed by rolled bat insulation but that was building vertical walls in between the 6x6 posts. It seems if your going to build vertical "panels" to fit in between your posts, why not just stick build from the start? I'm thinking of finishing the inside walls with white steel. So does the steel on the inside install better with horizontal girts rather than vertical framing? l.....help me understand.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I've read on this forum about spray foam of 2" to seal up building ,followed by rolled bat insulation but that was building vertical walls in between the 6x6 posts. It seems if your going to build vertical "panels" to fit in between your posts, why not just stick build from the start? I'm thinking of finishing the inside walls with white steel. So does the steel on the inside install better with horizontal girts rather than vertical framing? l.....help me understand.

Spray foam is great, but it is INCREDIBLY EXPENSIVE and not DIY !

Most of your heat loss is straight up, so you need to decide if your attic space is going to heated or unheated. Unheated will require less insulation.

I can't help you with you question about the side walls, but you are correct. Sticking 6" insulation, typically rolled, in 2x6 stud cavities is easy. House wrap on the outside does a good job of sealing. Get a bunch of spray foam cans and go to town on any remaining cracks before you insulate. Another benefit of stick built is that you don't have to insulate right away if funds are a bit low.

Last, don't forget the floor and footing walls ! Compacted gravel base, 2" foam minimum, 4" better (2 layers of 2", taped, no overlapping seams). Insulate the footing walls the same. Insulation is imperative if you are planning on in floor heat. You do have to spend this money up front !

Remember, you pay for insulation once, but you pay for heating fuel for as long as you own the building.

Last, some local building codes require a 6-12" curb/wall around the perimeter of the pad to place the stud walls on. Helps keep water out also.