New new ballast

[Scott P]

New ballast

The ballasts in my clearance Lowe's fixtures are failing after just over a year of service. I have four 4-bulb, 4 ft t-8 fixtures. Is there one particular ballast or brand that is better than others? I figured I'd ask before I choose the best price from a Google search.

 

[malibu101]

A few years ago our shop and many buildings on our campus were upgraded from T12 to T8 lamps and ballasts.
They used Sylvania tubes and ballasts.

Tubes have since burned out and needed replacing, but I've seen no ballasts failures yet.

Doesn't mean much but that's all I know.

 

[gasaxeman]

We typically use advance or universal.
I think they are both made in either ROC or south of the border unfortunately.
We had a bunch of GE that failed pretty quickly for one customer.

 

[pattenp]

I've gotten good service out of the GE Proline ballast.

 

[jeff000]

Buy the replacement from an Electrical Wholesaler and unless it's a back of van type shop they will be far better than the box stores.

 

[pattenp]

Brand for brand, part for part, a ballast from an electrical supply is no different than the same ballast from a big box store other than the price.

Buy the replacement from an Electrical Wholesaler and unless it's a back of van type shop they will be far better than the box stores.

 

[jeff000]

Brand for brand, part for part, a ballast from an electrical supply is no different than the same ballast from a big box store other than the price.

Part for part sure. But not many box stores carry the same part numbers that the wholesalers get.

 

[gasaxeman]

Re: New ballast

If I were replacing them this is what I would use
Put in a few hundred of these on various repairs and retrofits
Pretty good track record for us so far


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[jeff000]

Re: New ballast

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/12/abyhamu7.jpg


If I were replacing them this is what I would use
Put in a few hundred of these on various repairs and retrofits
Pretty good track record for us so far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like those ones too. Although up here the 120/277 would be special order at most wholesalers, all 120/347 here.

 

[Scott P]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

[Norcal]

Re: New ballast

I like those ones too. Although up here the 120/277 would be special order at most wholesalers, all 120/347 here.

They are not 120/277V they are 120-277V, huge difference as they can operate on any voltage from 120 to 277V not just 120 or 277, won't say anything about the 347 volt models as that is a Canadian voltage/product.

 

[gasaxeman]

Re: New ballast

They are not 120/277V they are 120-277V, huge difference as they can operate on any voltage from 120 to 277V not just 120 or 277, won't say anything about the 347 volt models as that is a Canadian voltage/product.

I have never installed these in a 240v system.
Have you installed in a 240v system.
Will they work on an open delta high leg system?
I would guess they would.
I have seen a different ballast in a high bay t5 fixture but it specifically said it was rated for 240v, it was an electronic ballast multi voltage type.

 

[Norcal]

No, I have not, prefer 120 or 277V.

 

[malibu101]

Re: New ballast

I have never installed these in a 240v system.
Have you installed in a 240v system.
Will they work on an open delta high leg system?
I would guess they would.
I have seen a different ballast in a high bay t5 fixture but it specifically said it was rated for 240v, it was an electronic ballast multi voltage type.

Can't say about using them on the high leg of a delta system
BUT
I have ran a few 120-277V ballasts on 208V (Three phase wye using 2 hot legs) and they work fine. The manufacturer said they would be fine wired this way.

This was due to the machines that have the lights affixed to them do not have a neutral. They are 208V 3Ø machines.

 

[gasaxeman]

Re: New ballast

Can't say about using them on the high leg of a delta system
BUT
I have ran a few 120-277V ballasts on 208V (Three phase wye using 2 hot legs) and they work fine. The manufacturer said they would be fine wired this way.

This was due to the machines that have the lights affixed to them do not have a neutral. They are 208V 3Ø machines.

That is good to know.
I have installed 400w mh highbays with multi-tap ballast on the high leg.
We used the 208 v tap. They have been up for a few years and are functioning fine.
I suspect the electronic ballast would work similar.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Brand for brand, part for part, a ballast from an electrical supply is no different than the same ballast from a big box store other than the price.

True....and IMHO, cheaper pricing with better service at an electrical supply.

That being said, its my experience that the boxes usually stock by price point and the supply house has something for every budget.

 

[Norcal]

The high leg is not to be used by it's self as there are no single pole breakers rated to be used for 208V of the type normally used for 240V, even when 2 pole are used w/ the high leg a standard breaker cannot be used as they are slash rated 120/240V & the voltage exceeds the lower rating, so a breaker rated at 240 volts must be used & they are uncommon & expensive, price I heard was around $90, vs less then $10 for a normal 2 pole.

 

[Kevin C]

Re: New ballast

The multi voltage ballasts normally meet industrial level for EMI (class A), the consumer ballasts meet FCC class B requirements.

Short story, radio reception might be an issue with industrial FCC class A ballasts. The industrial units also have power factor correction, that reduces the shift between the voltage level and the current draw. More of an issue with large facilities using lots of lights.

Lots of people use the Class A devices without issue, but problems do come up.

Power factor correction effects how many lights you can run on one circuit. In theory, if your lights are on a GFCI protected circuit, the power factor correction should prevent nuisance trips. I haven't tested that yet.

 

[gasaxeman]

The high leg is not to be used by it's self as there are no single pole breakers rated to be used for 208V of the type normally used for 240V, even when 2 pole are used w/ the high leg a standard breaker cannot be used as they are slash rated 120/240V & the voltage exceeds the lower rating, so a breaker rated at 240 volts must be used & they are uncommon & expensive, price I heard was around $90, vs less then $10 for a normal 2 pole.

Curious why the markings on this breaker.
this picture is a
QOB 120
Single pole bolt in , sq d
Shows 120/240 rating

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[radrush]

Re: New ballast

ballasts clearance fixtures failing

Is there one particular ballast or brand that is better

Yes.

 

[Highbeam]

Re: New ballast

If I were replacing them this is what I would use
Put in a few hundred of these on various repairs and retrofits
Pretty good track record for us so far


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use that phillips ballast also since it only burns 0.95 amps when the other option, the residential yellow one, burns up way more. Like 1.5 amps for the same light.

 

[Norcal]

Curious why the markings on this breaker.
this picture is a
QOB 120
Single pole bolt in , sq d
Shows 120/240 rating

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty much a standard rating, you will find the same ratings on most residential circuit breakers & cannot be used on the high leg.

 

[Kevin C]

Re: New ballast

I use that phillips ballast also since it only burns 0.95 amps when the other option, the residential yellow one, burns up way more. Like 1.5 amps for the same light.

The total actual power consumption for the same lamp size is very close... The peak current is lower because the commercial unit has power factor correction.

Basically, you wont see a difference on your bill. You will see a difference in the peak amperage. Since the peak amps is no longer phase shifted from the peak voltage, the same circuit can deliver more power.

Some light reading.... Pun intended.

http://www.oru.com/energyandsafety/electricdelivery/powerfactor/

https://www.progress-energy.com/assets/www/docs/business/power-factor-how-effects-bill.pdf

 

[gasaxeman]

Pretty much a standard rating, you will find the same ratings on most residential circuit breakers & cannot be used on the high leg.

I did a little checking myself. You are correct on the breaker usage.
The inspector for the village never said a word. Probably does not have a clue about open delta service and high legs.
I will file this in what memory I have left.We don't run across too many of these services anymore.


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[Highbeam]

Re: New ballast

The total actual power consumption for the same lamp size is very close... The peak current is lower because the commercial unit has power factor correction.

Basically, you wont see a difference on your bill. You will see a difference in the peak amperage. Since the peak amps is no longer phase shifted from the peak voltage, the same circuit can deliver more power.

Some light reading.... Pun intended.

http://www.oru.com/energyandsafety/electricdelivery/powerfactor/

https://www.progress-energy.com/assets/www/docs/business/power-factor-how-effects-bill.pdf

I'll try to read them. I'm an engineer and have always had a hard time understanding power factor. It's not a simple concept, I still would rather own the ballast with the much lower current input label. I haven't measured amperage to the running lights, I always assumed that the yellow ones with the much higher input current must just be significantly less efficient and wasting that energy to heat.