New (Old) Tool! Meet Beverly...

[dr_clyde]

So, yesterday I went into my local sheet metal shop, which belongs to some friends of mine. I've been on and off pestering them to sell me their Beverly shear for a few years now.

Yesterday I was in the office talking and one of the guys poked his head in and said he needed a hand loading something heavy into my truck. I assumed they were parts needing work and went out to help. As I walked out I saw it was the shear!

He said to just give him some cash for whatever I thought it was worth. Needless to say, I'm stoked.

He told me it was the first tool that their business purchased back when they started in 1991. These guys and gals have been close friends of mine for several years now, so I'm honored they would entrust it to me to use in my business.





The shear body is in great shape. Moves nice and smooth.

I do have one question. The blades have a small chip in the middle, like someone tried to cut some round bar or something hard. Friggen apprentices. Anyway, has anyone ever successfully welded a blade on one of these? There may be enough metal there to re-grind them and still be useful, but I dunno, these have been sharpened a bunch of times.

I know I can just buy new blades, but I'd like to try a repair on these if I can. I was thinking some air hardening tool steel rod, and use the TIG. I don't know what steel the blades are made from, but I can assume something like S-7, D2, A2, or similar tool steel, which is a ***** to weld. I considered using some hardfacing stick rod and just knocking the flux off, but I haven't ever welded a shear blade before. I'd be worried about ruining the heat treat, and making it worse. I know they're already hosed, so I don't have much to lose. New blades are only $170, so I may just go that route.

Thoughts?

 

[cvairwerks]

Might shoot a good high res shot of the damage and send it to Kent White over at TM Technology and see if he thinks they are reasonably repairable. Kent has new blade sets for 175$. Thats a bargin in my mind.

 

[dr_clyde]

Might shoot a good high res shot of the damage and send it to Kent White over at TM Technology and see if he thinks they are reasonably repairable. Kent has new blade sets for 175$. Thats a bargin in my mind.

That's a good idea. Kent was who I was looking to buy the replacement blades from anyway.

 

[Strouty]

I have a sister to your new friend, she is hiding in my hoard.

 

[Richard Cranium]

You might check with Kevin54, he does a lot of that kind of work also, I think...

 

[ritestuff]

I guess it all depends on what your time is worth. You could possibly end up dickin' around with those blades for hours, and still end up needing to buy a new set. I would just bite the bullet and get a new set. Then you essentially have a brand new B-3 that should last for years unless some dolt tries to cut a 3/8" grade 8 bolt or something.

 

[dr_clyde]

I guess it all depends on what your time is worth. You could possibly end up dickin' around with those blades for hours, and still end up needing to buy a new set. I would just bite the bullet and get a new set. Then you essentially have a brand new B-3 that should last for years unless some dolt tries to cut a 3/8" grade 8 bolt or something.

This is the truth. I'll probably just end up ordering new blades.

 

[wrenchguy]

This is the truth. I'll probably just end up ordering new blades.

u do know there still in business? u can ship ur old cutters and get them reground.

 

[Jarhead0408]

Sweet. Congrats on the score.

Nice RX-7 too. Did you stay with the rotary or swap it out?

 

[bsg]

u do know there still in business? u can ship ur old cutters and get them reground.

I would contact them direct......I've heard they have excellent customer service!

http://beverlyshearmfg.com

Kevin

 

[dr_clyde]

Sweet. Congrats on the score.

Nice RX-7 too. Did you stay with the rotary or swap it out?

The RX-7 belongs to my best friend. He bought it with the rotarty blown, so we swapped in a 5.7 LS and T-56 out of a wrecked firebird. That thing is wicked fast and is really easy to get the back end loose. He's into drifting, so that was the idea behind that car.

 

[rnscustom]

Nice , looks like the B3 , you can send them to be sharpened . There is one local here been for sale at $750 for a long time . I've been looking for one for a long time but maybe at a few hundred , I bought the HF one on sale with coupon for $70 and it will do for now till I find a Beverly .

 

[ilovevocs]

That's a you sick deal. Enjoy.

Not telling you what to do but I would Wipe it down with wax and grease remover and follow up with a the red and white title wax.

I bet you have some beautiful Patina under that shop dust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[ozyborn]

Nope, totally hosed now. Best if you just shipped it to me. No? Drats.

With mine I just got a spare set of blades, then had the old ones sharpened. I was able to adjust them enough to get nice cuts as well.

 

[Strouty]

That's a you sick deal.

What is this? An edited version of the "you ****" deal???

 

[Jarhead0408]

The RX-7 belongs to my best friend. He bought it with the rotarty blown, so we swapped in a 5.7 LS and T-56 out of a wrecked firebird. That thing is wicked fast and is really easy to get the back end loose. He's into drifting, so that was the idea behind that car.

Sounds like a blast. Are there any Youtube videos of it drifting?

 

[MoonRise]

I do have one question. The blades have a small chip in the middle, like someone tried to cut some round bar or something hard. Friggen apprentices. Anyway, has anyone ever successfully welded a blade on one of these? There may be enough metal there to re-grind them and still be useful, but I dunno, these have been sharpened a bunch of times.

I know I can just buy new blades, but I'd like to try a repair on these if I can. I was thinking some air hardening tool steel rod, and use the TIG. I don't know what steel the blades are made from, but I can assume something like S-7, D2, A2, or similar tool steel, which is a ***** to weld. I considered using some hardfacing stick rod and just knocking the flux off, but I haven't ever welded a shear blade before. I'd be worried about ruining the heat treat, and making it worse. I know they're already hosed, so I don't have much to lose. New blades are only $170, so I may just go that route.

Thoughts?

First, you ****.

Second, just order a replacement set of blades.

Welding blade steel means that you would pretty much have to match the original steel alloy (or at least get something compatible) and then heat treat the blade.

Because your welding HAZ will mess up the original heat treatment of the blade to at least some extent.

And if you don't KNOW what exact alloy steel you are dealing with, how can you even come close on the appropriate heat treatment?

If it's an oil hardening O1 and you quench in water, you'll likely shatter the blade. If it's D2, that's an air quench. And just what temperature will you heat the blade up to before quenching? 1600F? 1800F? 2100F? etc, etc.

Just buy a set of replacement blades.

 

[ritestuff]

I would contact them direct......I've heard they have excellent customer service!

http://beverlyshearmfg.com

Kevin

Beverly Shear's customer service is out of this world. Totally "old School". They will jump through hoops for you. I've rebuilt/restored dozens of shears and have gotten parts from them many times. You have to call and order parts directly with the receptionist there. The website doesn't work and is basically useless. (She told me that herself.) No credit card or online payments. You have to mail them a check or money order. Believe it or not, Beverly Shear employs a total of FOUR people.

 

[rnscustom]

Just noticed you got the stand too . Nice find , went to a friends sheetmetal shop hoping I'd see one in the corner collecting dust and pick it up. The guys working there never heard of or saw one before .

 

[PugetDude]

You ****.

I've been looking for a used Beverly for the last five years. Nothing.

My neighbor has one (along with a 4' stomp shear and a pristine old 3' finger brake) that he keeps covered and hasn't used in over ten years...no interest in selling, his wife jokes that I can be first in line at the estate sale.

 

[dr_clyde]

Got back to the shop for a few hours today, managed to snag a couple photos of the chips on Bev's blades. The lower one is worse.

They may be able to be ground yet, not sure. I think what I'll do is purchase a new set, and then send these in for grinding. If they're unfixable, oh well, I tried. If they are, I have a spare set.

Got Bev sitting next to the box brake for now. Weird how the color is almost an exact match, almost like every other industrial machine I have... I like grey, don't get me wrong, but I wish some machine tool makers used some color.

 

[dr_clyde]

Sounds like a blast. Are there any Youtube videos of it drifting?

No video yet, just got it running last week. Got a few bugs to work out before we have another track day. Result of buying a used engine and trans with no history on the car.

 

[dr_clyde]

First, you ****.

Second, just order a replacement set of blades.

Welding blade steel means that you would pretty much have to match the original steel alloy (or at least get something compatible) and then heat treat the blade.

Because your welding HAZ will mess up the original heat treatment of the blade to at least some extent.

And if you don't KNOW what exact alloy steel you are dealing with, how can you even come close on the appropriate heat treatment?

If it's an oil hardening O1 and you quench in water, you'll likely shatter the blade. If it's D2, that's an air quench. And just what temperature will you heat the blade up to before quenching? 1600F? 1800F? 2100F? etc, etc.

Just buy a set of replacement blades.

Pretty much the conclusion I arrived at. Good to have some corroboration on my story.

 

[dr_clyde]

Beverly Shear's customer service is out of this world. Totally "old School". They will jump through hoops for you. I've rebuilt/restored dozens of shears and have gotten parts from them many times. You have to call and order parts directly with the receptionist there. The website doesn't work and is basically useless. (She told me that herself.) No credit card or online payments. You have to mail them a check or money order. Believe it or not, Beverly Shear employs a total of FOUR people.

That's really good to hear that they have "old school" customer service. I'll give them a call after the holiday and see what we can do. I will second their website being pretty much useless. They show every single part as out of stock!

 

[schor]

Nice score. I picked my b2 up for $50. It had a bad paint job on it so I cleaned it up and painted it.

 

[jabberwoki]

Looks like a B3. Call up the company there're the best to deal with super friendly and they`ll sharpen your blades for you and send you all the paper work for it.

 

[dr_clyde]

I got an upgrade for Beverly today. I was at a buddy's shop helping him out, and acquired this chunk of steel to make a base. I don't really love the original Beverly base if left unfastened. It tends to pull at you when you're pulling on the handle.

This is the best I can come up with short of bolting it to the floor. I originally planned to make a hitch style mount I can attach to my welding table. However, that was when I was looking at shears without even thinking it would come with a stand. The truth is, the shear is much handier when I don't need to get it out and bolt it in for 1 cut. I still plan to make one, but this provides me with an easy place to store the shear and still be able to use it. If I get into a heavier job than this base can handle, I'll be able to attach it in a reciever on the 2500lb table.

The base will be made from 1-1/2" steel. This happens to be a drop from a part that my friend makes on his waterjet. Its right around 32" in diameter. Weight is a tad over 300 lbs. Ill drill and tap a few holes with the mag drill to attach it. Someday I may even give it a coat of paint. I plan to cut some pieces of rectangle tube to make fork pockets for it, as it will be a pain to move. Although that is kind of the point...

 

[Furby1184]

I just got my hands on a Beverly b3 shear AND a Stake plate with multiple stakes from pexto and Niagara!!

 

[dr_clyde]

Very nice. Like the stake plate.

 

[Rinspeed]

You ****.

 

[Forgottonia]

Sweet! You scored on this one.

Re the nicked blade: It's hard to tell whether the blades are symmetrical based on the photo. But is there any chance you could reverse them, upper to lower and vice versa, so as to use the inner edge as a new blade? (After you shape it and sharpen, of course.) It's probably a long shot that this would work. Just a thought.

 

[dr_clyde]

This is an old thread, I’ve since purchased new blades for Bev. She cuts sharp and straight now!

 

[csp]

I missed this thread originally. I was lucky enough to find a B2 at an auction and only paid $35 for it 10+ years ago. This auctioneer sucked and most people had gone home by the time they got to it. Lots of surface rust but the blades suffered no degradation at all.

If it weren't for junior high school shop class I probably wouldn't have know what an awesome tool they are and would have not even have looked at it.

 

[SpiderDave]

NICE FIND! I have the B2 and I love it. It's an irreplaceable tool. I passed up on a B3 last yr and I regret it. I bought an extra set of blades for mine so that when they dull, I send them out to be reground / sharpened while I use the other set and then they trade places the next round. Sometimes I go yrs without sending them out, unless I get a big project or cut too much dirty metal being lazy. The last set has not dulled yet, so it's been a while.

The blades can be purchased at TM Technologies,.. or Trick Tools which is where I do remember getting my last set since I just checked my email archive - good quality and service there. They're Beverly Blades, not knock offs - I did ask prior to purchase and they coem with great set up instructions from Beverly.

I'm old, I don't recall who re-ground the last set. Probably Beverly? If not, they maybe could tell you. Memory fails me, I'd have to ask the wife / bookkeeper. Ha! She keeps receipts 10 + yrs. You can also call around your local machine shops and ask if they can do it for you. Hope that helps?

CONGRATS!

Added later: 2017? Woops! Somehow that came up as latest threads and I didn't check the date, DUH. Oh well. info is good info. Cheers!

 

[RoninB4]

Just finding this thread now. As others have pointed out you **** (unless I can use Beverly ). Great find, I've been wanting one of those for many years after working at a shop that had one. Less burr and sometimes easier than using hand snips.

Best idea was getting new blades. I've welded many tool steel cutting edges (progressive stamping dies) that had chipped but it was always an emergency repair to get the run finished while making a replacement. There are better welders than me but either the welded section eventually broke off or the weld heat softened the rest of the punch/die and reduced service life. Nice piece you acquired, congratulations.