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New Oven Wiring

ThatSickRip

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May 23, 2017
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763
Need some help with a kitchen remodel. The line for the old oven is in the main panel, double 50a breaker and the wire says 6-6-6 AL. It currently does not reach the location to where the oven is being moved, a few feet short. New oven is 40a per the manual, so Im down to a few options, or what I believe are options lol

-pull the old wire, get a new double 40a breaker and run it to the sub-panel and that will give me the length back I need
-run new 8/3 and double 40a breaker to sub-panel (would still need to kill off the old line)
*question here is the new oven came with a 3 prong cord and I bought a new 3 prong outlet 50a outlet to match the existing before we realized we didnt have enough wire to reach new location; can this be wired that way?
**or do I just run the 8/3 to new breaker and hardwire the oven and skip the 3 prong cord since thats an option as well?

Sorry if any of this doesnt make sense or is confusing. Remodel started Memorial Day weekend, and on top of work and this, my brain is zapped
 
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dcg9381

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Why not splice into the larger 6/6/6 AL and get a couple extra feet out of it? Replace the existing breaker with 40A.

You can run new wire, of course... My new micro/oven combo didn't come with a pronged connector, it was hard wired.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
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Modesto, CA
Need some help with a kitchen remodel. The line for the old oven is in the main panel, double 50a breaker and the wire says 6-6-6 AL. It currently does not reach the location to where the oven is being moved, a few feet short. New oven is 40a per the manual, so Im down to a few options, or what I believe are options lol

-pull the old wire, get a new double 40a breaker and run it to the sub-panel and that will give me the length back I need
-run new 8/3 and double 40a breaker to sub-panel (would still need to kill off the old line)
*question here is the new oven came with a 3 prong cord and I bought a new 3 prong outlet 50a outlet to match the existing before we realized we didnt have enough wire to reach new location; can this be wired that way?
**or do I just run the 8/3 to new breaker and hardwire the oven and skip the 3 prong cord since thats an option as well?

Sorry if any of this doesnt make sense or is confusing. Remodel started Memorial Day weekend, and on top of work and this, my brain is zapped
You can only do a 3-wire plug on a stove on an existing circuit

you cannot extend an existing 3-wire circuit either

so your only option here is to run a new 4-wire circuit, unless you can run an EGC to the new location where you extend the circuit to.

If you do end up running a new circuit, I would run 6/3 NM-b so you have a 50a circuit for future larger appliances...
Why not splice into the larger 6/6/6 AL and get a couple extra feet out of it? Replace the existing breaker with 40A.

You can run new wire, of course... My new micro/oven combo didn't come with a pronged connector, it was hard wired.
cannot do so. code requires 4-wire circuits for ranges now, unless of course the OP can run an EGC to the new location.
 

Neggy

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May 30, 2021
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754
watch the torque on that AL wire, I have seen it loosen after years of use and start causing a thermal trip of the breaker
 
OP
T

ThatSickRip

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May 23, 2017
Messages
763
You can only do a 3-wire plug on a stove on an existing circuit

you cannot extend an existing 3-wire circuit either

so your only option here is to run a new 4-wire circuit, unless you can run an EGC to the new location where you extend the circuit to.

If you do end up running a new circuit, I would run 6/3 NM-b so you have a 50a circuit for future larger appliances...

cannot do so. code requires 4-wire circuits for ranges now, unless of course the OP can run an EGC to the new location

We dont plan on being here long enough for future upgrades, so Im thinking 8/3 on 40a
 
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Bert_

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Dec 24, 2016
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IMO 6-3 is a waste. That's all I used to run to household ranges. Then I saw one ran off 10 and a double 30. Asked the homeowner about it and they had no clue, said it never tripped. I've amp clamped a couple stoves, most won't pull much above 35A even with every burner and the oven on full blast. Much less once it's warmed up.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
I thought the same thing until the breakers kept tripping, after 25 years something changed...... turned out to be loose AL at the breakers
unless the breaker was an AFCI, it wouldnt trip due to a lose connection. Non-AFCI breakers have 2 trip components- the bimetallic thermal trip for overcurrent and the magnetic trip for short circuits....
 

Bert_

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unless the breaker was an AFCI, it wouldnt trip due to a lose connection. Non-AFCI breakers have 2 trip components- the bimetallic thermal trip for overcurrent and the magnetic trip for short circuits....
A loose connection at the breaker will absolutely make it trip below it's rating. A loose connection makes heat. The long trip function is thermal (heat)...
 

Neggy

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All I know is what the Electrician told me. He tightened the connections in the panel, on a Sunday, without charging me and after tripping for a week straight it stopped doing it
 

wyliesdiesels

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A loose connection at the breaker will absolutely make it trip below it's rating. A loose connection makes heat. The long trip function is thermal (heat)...
Ive seen loose connections on almost every brand of breaker and none of them ever tripped.

Had a SQ D 90a on a duplex i used to live in stay closed despite the aluminum wire and lugs glowing red hot due to a lose connection....
 

Bert_

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Ive seen loose connections on almost every brand of breaker and none of them ever tripped.

Had a SQ D 90a on a duplex i used to live in stay closed despite the aluminum wire and lugs glowing red hot due to a lose connection....
I don't know what to tell you other than I've seen them trip below their rating. It's a common issue with stab in breakers too.
 
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T

ThatSickRip

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May 23, 2017
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I was able to reroute the existing wire and gain some length at the panel and around other existing wires and floor trusses. Between that, and making a new hole in the floor closer to the panel, I was able to gain back enough to terminate it in a new outlet for the new oven. I checked it with my Klein no contact tester, and it was good. Just not sure if its one of the models on recall lol
 
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