To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

New pole barn project-need help with truss/rafter design

KiYota

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
9
I'm planning an 18 x 24 pole barn in my backyard for the spring. From what I can glean from my town code online what I want to build is well within the limits (lot coverage, maximum height, setbacks, etc...), but I have an appointment with the zoning official to go over specifics. The barn will be used mostly for OPE storage and as a place to work on equipment/cars out of the rain. Nothing fancy. The pole construction is pretty straightforward-I'll be using 6x6x12 posts sunk 36" deep, spaced 8' apart, and trimmed to a finish height of 8'-6" above ground. The 6x6s will be notched at the top to accept 4x6 beams which will be bolted. A 2x6 nailer will be lag bolted into the top of each post and screwed to the beams. A floor framed with 2x12x18s spaced 16" OC will rest on top of the pole framework. I ran a calculation on #2 Doug Fir 2x12s and came up with a max span of 17'-11", so my 17'-1" span between the beams should be fine. This is where it gets tricky.

Basically what I want is a second floor on my barn. Half of it will be used for dry, secure, out-of-season storage for clothes, seasonal decorations, and other items currently clogging up the basement and other areas of the house. The other half will be a "man cave" of sorts where the guys can retreat during family/friends get-togethers. Again, nothing fancy-just a place I can throw an old couch, hang my deer heads up, maybe build one of those hockey stick bars eventually, and pretty much do all the stuff I wish I could do with my basement but I can't since it's currently a family room/play room. I've been fooling around with some gambrel roof framing ideas and came across someone who had built the same size barn but used a combination of ridge and rafter and truss building techniques to maximize the space above. It had been posted on another forum but the guy doesn't seem to be around anymore. I studied the pictures he posted and came up with this:

Rafter-Truss_zpsd66a86d0.jpg


I'd like someone who knows a lot more about truss design than me to critique it and tell me what they think. This guy had spaced his 24" OC and lived in Michigan, so the roof will see more snow in one winter than mine (NJ) will in five years, but like I said, he hasn't posted in over two years so it could have caved in for all I know. FWIW the plan would be to space these 24" OC, then nail purlins 24" OC and apply ribbed metal roofing (the entire building will be metal). Basically I just need to know if this will be strong enough. It's not really a truss in that I'm not trying to support a long span with it. All it needs to do is hold up the roof, the white stuff that falls on it, and not blow off in high winds...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
I think what you have will work.
The place to make it strong is where the top of the wall and the rafters meet.
That size and style is common in the kits they sell at the big box stores.
Go walk through their display sheds for some ideas.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,919
Location
oregon
but I have an appointment with the zoning official to go over specifics.

In my country you have to have an engineering stamp on any truss drawing. So I would suggest that you call the building department and ask if you need engineered trusses or will they approve your design without an engineers stamp.

lg
no neat sig line
 

volleyball

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
4,127
Location
NY, not NYC
You can get loft style trusses pre engineered from most places. This will make the building dept happy and you won't have to worry about it caving in.
The big issue I see with your design is the plywood. You will need a high quality sheet. Or maybe you could find a metal design. How do you plan on keeping it from racking?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom