New Polyaspartic floor not meeting expectations

[fastmnstealth]

I had a new floor put down in my shop 2 weeks ago. Professionally installed. I wanted "the best" and described my use case to the installer. Essentially a home mechanics shop. He recommended Polyurea/Polyaspartic full flake. This lined up with my expectations of what I thought was the best.

-Slab 3 years old, but not used for anything but wood working type projects

-Slab diamond ground, vacuumed
-Gray tinted Citadel Polyurea 350 primer/base coat
-Flake to rejection immediately
-2 days later floor scraped in all four directions(installer schedule conflicts as cause for 2 day delay).
-Citadel RG-80x Polyaspartic "Super Slow" top coat with squeegee, rolled and back rolled.

Temps in shop 65-78F.

After two days, floor still soft but could walk on it.
After 1 week, could easily leave fingernail mark in it.
After 2 weeks (today), it was harder, but I could still leave an impression with my fingernail.

I've driven on it and no tire marks or lifting, but still can leave fingernail impression.

Rep has been engaged and says the "Super Slow" version is ok even though it isn't as Hot as it was designed for. It would just take longer to cure. Said should be cured by now.

If a fingernail can leave an impression what about jack stands, bar stools, big tool boxes, etc

Am I expecting too much?

 

[bluedog225]

If it’s anything like epoxy, time and heat. Sounds like you have an intentionally slow chemical reaction going.

I would not drive on it until it is fully cured. Super slow, right? Either wait for the temp or bake it by closing off the shop and heating to whatever you can get. Maybe 100F for a day or two.

Waiting for the cure is going to be the better option than anything else.

 

[fastmnstealth]

If it’s anything like epoxy, time and heat. Sounds like you have an intentionally slow chemical reaction going.

I would not drive on it until it is fully cured. Super slow, right? Either wait for the temp or bake it by closing off the shop and heating to whatever you can get. Maybe 100F for a day or two.

Waiting for the cure is going to be the better option than anything else.

I can heat garage...100F is not possible, but 80+ is.

I've got an epoxy floor in another garage. It is very hard. Granted it is an old floor, but I never worried about it.

The rep told me Polyaspartics will not get as hard as epoxy. I knew that and it is one of the upsides. Less chance to chip/crack. But does that mean I will be able to leave fingernail impressions? If so, it is not what I was expecting. This is a Shore D 78 product. That is almost "hard hat" hard (80). After 2 weeks, it is not hard hat hard.

 

[Shea]

Did the installer choose the Super Slow formula? Is so, I would get him involved if it does not cure in the next couple of days. He should be the one responsible for applying the product in the less than the ideal conditions is was designed for.

 

[fastmnstealth]

Did the installer choose the Super Slow formula? Is so, I would get him involved if it does not cure in the next couple of days. He should be the one responsible for applying the product in the less than the ideal conditions is was designed for.

Yes, the installer selected the formula. The installer has been supportive and we've involved the factory rep. The rep and one of their technical specialists have looked at the floor. Everyone agree that even with the formulation, it should have fully cured by now. They said The only real options that make sense are to continue to wait(not sure how long it will take) or scuff and recoat. They cautioned that even with recoating with a cooler temp formulation that it may never get as hard as I seem to be expecting. They are recommending possibly scuffing and recoating with a moisture cured polyurethane. It will be much harder and more durable than a polyaspartic. Still more flexible than epoxy with 100% uv protection. They think it will meet my use case requirements...essentially a home mechanics shop.

Website link - marketing material
Link to datasheet

I have not paid anything yet. The installer and Mfg are very responsive. The Mfg is paying for recoat, so installer doesn't have to eat it. That indicates a material issue to me.

Thoughts on the Polyurethane topcoat?

Note they call it a Polyurea in the docs, but they made it clear that it is actually a Aliphatic Urethane

 

[Shea]

That's good to hear that everyone is involved. However, it's rarely advisable to coat over a suspect coating with another coat. All it does is temporarily hide the problem. Does it still have an odor? If so, those solvents will get trapped and slowly release for months. I would recommend waiting it out as they indicate to see if it cures as it should or have it removed and start over.

 

[rjacobs]

Im with Shea that I wouldnt just want to slap another layer on a layer that hasnt finished curing i.e. outgassing... recipe for disaster...

 

[fastmnstealth]

That's good to hear that everyone is involved. However, it's rarely advisable to coat over a suspect coating with another coat. All it does is temporarily hide the problem. Does it still have an odor? If so, those solvents will get trapped and slowly release for months. I would recommend waiting it out as they indicate to see if it cures as it should or have it removed and start over.

There was no smell after 4-5 days. On day 3-5, I had it cranked up to 78 in the shop. There was a smell (not strong) when you entered the building. Specialist said it shouldn't still smell, and to open doors to vent. It has now been 18 days and I can still leave a fingernail impression. Note that there portions under each OHD that extend outside about 8". One side of the building gets full sun for many hours a day. When the specialist was here again at 14 days, we measured floor temps. Inside the floor was 66deg and outside it was 79-82 deg. The floor seemed the same hardness outside as inside.

Back to my original question/comment. Should a fully cured Polyaspartic floor take a fingernail impression? If so, it is not what I'm looking for. I'm concern it will not hold up to my use case.

I will talk with them tomorrow about full strip or sand and recoat. I don't want the same material put down.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Agree with Shea, we never recommend recoating a floor with a known problem as the new coat won't fix what is under it.