I am planning on building a 24x?? not sure on the depth quite yet and have never built one before. I have several questions and would like some opinions from others with experience so I will be asking several questions so I will start at the bottom of the building and work my way up. My first question is about scraping off the sod. Is it a must to take off the top layer or can I just set the posts and build walls then add 6" of rock/stone on top of the grass? Code in my area calls for 22" diameter holes and 11" thick under the posts. There has to be 48" of the post below finish grade sitting on the footings. I'd like to dig 48" deep holes, then add 6"rock after the poles are in and 6" concrete so i'd be good with depth of embedment. Does this sound ok to put rock on grass inside the building or is it a must to take off the grass and sod?
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New post frame garage questions.
- Thread starter Jay13
- Start date
cj7jeep81
Well-known member
I'd definitely scrape it all off. Otherwise, you might have issues getting the soil to compact properly to support your floor. When I built mine, we dug down several inches to get all the topsoil off to clay, then put on the stone on top. Also helps when you're building as we were walking on 4 or 5" of stone, instead of muddy grass. It will still turn into a mess when you are driving skid steers and equipment over it, but it helps.
kj_mustang
Well-known member
Scrape the topsoil including the area outside for aprons and driveway. Your stone will just sink into it if you don't.
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kj_mustang
Well-known member
In my area, its called #57 stone. Crushed limestone about 3/4" to 1" in size.
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Sent from my LGLS675 using Tapatalk
In my area, its called #57 stone. Crushed limestone about 3/4" to 1" in size.
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Do I just need to take the vegetation off or go deeper? My area seems to be topsoil for about a foot or two then clay under it. I am pretty sure the code calls for 6" of gravel but doesn't state if 6" of earth needs removed or you can build the area up. My thinking was go down 6" so the stone is level with the existing ground then pour 4-5 inches above grade on the inside. Does that sound about right or is that not advisable?
ctgoodman
Well-known member
I'm getting into this process myself. You need to take all of the topsoil off. Anything with organic material in it will decompose and sink. You must do this even if you have to have fill dirt hauled in to bring it back up to level. This is not a place where you want to skimp. Else you may get the building up and then have a corner or the entire slab sink 3" a year later. no doubt you will probably get your posts on solid ground but that slab would not be if you don't take it all off.
Chris705
Well-known member
^^^ This is a good answer....^^^
Read the many threads about cracked concrete and how most come back to talking about a solid well compacted base. Don't be afraid to educate yourself before any construction starts. Go to your local concrete supplier talk to them about different mix designs.....go to the local stone quarry and talk to them about what options they have and what would they do in your same situation....Good luck on your build!!
Read the many threads about cracked concrete and how most come back to talking about a solid well compacted base. Don't be afraid to educate yourself before any construction starts. Go to your local concrete supplier talk to them about different mix designs.....go to the local stone quarry and talk to them about what options they have and what would they do in your same situation....Good luck on your build!!
rburke65
Well-known member
You need to r move ALL the topsoil down to the clay. Make sure you bring the base up and beyond the water level. You want your flor level ABOVE any projected water level. Much of the expense of a build is underground and not seen but is the difference between a happy build and a disaster.
lakeroadster
Well-known member
*Leveling the site
*http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353625
- What equipment will be used?
- If they add fill material, what will fill materials will they use? Material from a local aggregate processor that has known properties or what?
- Will they compact the fill material?
- What height / thickness of fill do they add before they compact the fill? 4”, 5", 6”
- Will they add / compact / add in multiple lifts?
- Do they test for proper compaction? If yes, how and to what standard?
*http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353625
Last edited:
Great answers I'm learning a lot. I have my own tractor and can remove it myself so down to clay it is. I keep reading people debating putting sand in as fill, how would you compact sand? am I missing something? One more question: when I put my driveway in I scraped the top layer off and put 4" crushed concrete as a base then #57 washed over it so it wouldn't sink. Is this advisable or just put limestone down and compact every few inches before the next layer? I might not even pour concrete till next year so will that help with compaction by settling? One last thing why not use recycled asphalt as a base because it compacts great. Sorry for the long post, i'm trying to learn so I don't have problems later and thank to all that give your input its very helpful.
MagKarl
Well-known member
I'd start the driveway base with large aggregate to minimize sinking and disappearing into the clay. Mine was done with recycled concrete cobbles, was cheaper than rock at the time.
Chris705
Well-known member
Not pouring concrete immediately will typically help with compaction of your base materials, just time and letting rain get to it, driving on it and staging materials on it will allow for a firmer base. The freeze thaw cycle of a winter and wanting to pour a slab in early spring is not advisable.
Sand for a base is not really advisable because most sands do not compact well. Sharp, fractured stone and stone dust all intertwine to compact well when placed in lifts/layers. Recycled asphalt is generally not used as a base material because of the asphalt coating. Not sure one would want that smell of petroleum under my slab....outdoors is a different matter.
Sand for a base is not really advisable because most sands do not compact well. Sharp, fractured stone and stone dust all intertwine to compact well when placed in lifts/layers. Recycled asphalt is generally not used as a base material because of the asphalt coating. Not sure one would want that smell of petroleum under my slab....outdoors is a different matter.