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New remodel II

snorvet

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Oct 29, 2005
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Northern Illinois
now that i'm almost done with my detached garage, I'm starting to fix up my 30' x 32' attached garage.

Here's what Im doing:

25 or so recessed lights (take out old flourescents)
fix drywall seam cracks/ nail pops and paint eggshell white
grind old paint off exposed foundation wall and paint black
install baseboard trim and paint black
paint window trim & install new rolling shades
install racedeck or similar flooring

I have a few questions.

This garage can get down to 40 degrees in the winter. Is recessed lighting ok when its this cold?

I cant find the thread but I thought I read that drywall seam cracks are best fixed by caulk when there is a huge temperature swing in the garage. Would caulk be better than retaping and mudding the seam cracks? Outside temps here range from -15 to 100 and my garage is not heated or cooled.

Here's a few before pics - there very dark because only 2 of my 4 flourescent fixtures work.

att1.jpg


att2.jpg


att3.jpg


att4.jpg
 
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bmwpower

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NJ
Funny, I'm trying to get my attached garage straightened out. Except mine has a ton more **** in it.

I have 4 cans with halogen lights on my front porch. I've used them in subzero weather before. I don't think they anything special, so you should be fine.
 

Kevin54

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Why not add some heat to the garage? I would imagine that you could tie into the ductwork in the house somewhere. Even a 4" PVC pipe tied into a heat run will keep that garage up to 55-60 degrees in the winter.
 
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snorvet

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Northern Illinois
Kevin54 said:
Why not add some heat to the garage? I would imagine that you could tie into the ductwork in the house somewhere. Even a 4" PVC pipe tied into a heat run will keep that garage up to 55-60 degrees in the winter.

Kevin -

Thanks for the idea.
I dont know why I havent thought about this before, but I have a supply duct about 3' from the garage in the unfinished part of the basement. I could easily run a duct to the garage, but I need to figure out how I can get another duct to the garage door side, because the garage doors are 31' from the house side of the garage.
 
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snorvet

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finally added the new lighting - decided to go fluorescent

6 fixtures - 8' 2 bulb lithonia T12 110 watt high output cold start. extremely bright in there now

garlites1.jpg


garlites2.jpg
 

KELLHAMMER

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Nov 20, 2006
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south eastern pennsylvania
Do not connect your house forced air system to the garage. Supply or return. Building codes prohibit this. For good reason. Fumes. You do not want you car exhaust leaking into your house.
 
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snorvet

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KELLHAMMER said:
Do not connect your house forced air system to the garage. Supply or return. Building codes prohibit this. For good reason. Fumes. You do not want you car exhaust leaking into your house.

I figured that out after I thought about it. If anything, I'll add a small electric unit like I have in my detached garage.
 
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snorvet

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Some progress - painted the walls and ceiling and started grinding the floor. Painting windows and installing shades this weekend. Waiting until it cools off to finish floor grinding, etching, and painting with H&C sealer.

IMG_2069.jpg


IMG_2070.jpg
 

flesburg

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Aug 15, 2006
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Pontiac, IL
I had a local hvac company install a space heater in my attached garage. It is a "Hot Dawg" controlled by a low temp thermostat so it can be turned down to 40 degrees and up to 80 for weekend work.

It has a blower on it and vents out through a sidewall. It mounts flush to the ceiling. Runs on Nat. Gas and we could not tell any difference in gas bill. My attached garage is 24x25x9.5. It is really nice to get into a car at 40 degrees when it is below zero outside.

Total cost for installed heater was under a thousand.
 

boiler7904

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Looks good. I hear ya on the heat and humidity. I was outside for work all day Wednesday in Wilmington, IL. Not a good time. It's weeks like this that I'm glad my job means being behind a desk in the AC most of the time.
 
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snorvet

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I don't know - Any day outside in Wilmington has to beat any day in the office.

These posts about heating are tough to take seriously now, but I'm sure heating the garage will make sense in a few months
 
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snorvet

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I'm waiting until late September to do the floor. I have a 3' wide concrete step that I painted with the H&C first as a test and part of it dried before I finished the entire step. It was very hot that day and I think the temp had something to do with the short pot life. So I'm waiting until it cools down. I did grind down the garage floor edges and painted the window trim. So I'm ready to grind, etch and paint when the weather breaks.
 

SteveL

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Jan 14, 2005
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St. Louis, MO
It sounds like we are on the same schedule. Way too hot here in St. Louis. Look forward to seeing your finished.
 

mhoffm911

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Sep 3, 2007
Messages
511
First post, hopefully it helps you and others out...

I had never heard of H&C so thought I would research it (as I have been doing with all of the epoxy floor coverings this week). I noticed that on their website, they had the phrase "Rolls like paint, wears like steel". This the SAME phrase used on the Supercoat website. I then noted that Supercoat is a product of CASS polymers and milamar adhesives - they are the manufacturer and advertise that they sell their products under private label names.

Long story short, I think the H&C is probably made by the same company that makes Supercoat (colors are same too). Being ****, I even noticed that they simply used the same product images (look at the flakes being in the same spots) but photoshopped the edges.

So, where does all of this lead us? To Sam's Club of course.

http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?dest=5&item=112165

I'm guessing the $69 price at Sam's club FOR THE EXACT SAME PRODUCT is going to be lots less than whatever the H&C (or Supercoat) costs. Supercoat cost $118 on their website for the same kit you can get at Sam's club for $69. You are welcome to send ME the difference in cost. :bounce:

I hope this helps.
 
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snorvet

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mhoffm911 -

my H&C product is a sealer - not 2 part epoxy. Here's a pic:

IMG_2089.jpg


Here's my test area - precast step after 1 coat:

IMG_2090.jpg
 

DynoDave

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Excellent work mhoffm911! That's a heck of a good price. Looking a the Sams site, it looks like the kit is just the color coat...there's a can of hardener, resin, and "Glaze Coat", but no clear coat. Is that correct?
 

mhoffm911

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DynoDave,

I don't think there is a "clear coat" other than the "glaze coat" is probably the same thing. Their ad says "and a glaze coat for extended durability and gloss". I'm going to do my garage later this month with the kits from Sam's and will make a post about my experience.

Snorvet,

Sorry I did not have the exact product you are using in mind when I stumbled upon my findings. In your case, it might be worth checking with Supercoat to see if they sell the same sealer as H&C and compare prices.
 

boiler7904

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Looks good. Either you coated the concrete curb too or did a perfect job of matching rubber base to the coating.
 

noyu

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Aug 24, 2007
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Toronto,Canada
Very nice!:thumbup:

I would never imagine a coat of sealer / paint would make such a big difference!

Can I ask you what did you use at the bottom of the drywall?They looks like baseboard but what are they?

Can you show a closer pic because I just finish my floor with epoxy and looking for something durable (and looks good) as baseboard?

Thanks
 
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snorvet

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Here's a closeup. I used a 3-1/2" wood baseboard trim. I painted the trim with paint that Sherwin Williams color matched to the H&C sealer. I have 0-3" of exposed foundation wall exposed that I painted with the H&C. I caulked all joints first.

floorcloseup.jpg
 

russlaferrera

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SNORVET, What about electric baseboard heat? It's 100 % efficient, cheap to install, no fumes, can't freeze. With the cost of energy today, the cost may be inline with other fuels.
 

noyu

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Toronto,Canada
Here's a closeup. I used a 3-1/2" wood baseboard trim. I painted the trim with paint that Sherwin Williams color matched to the H&C sealer. I have 0-3" of exposed foundation wall exposed that I painted with the H&C. I caulked all joints first.

floorcloseup.jpg

Thanks for your pic!

It's realy nice but do you worry about water issue when the floor is wet?

I live in Toronto and during winter months we have quite a bit of snow and what really concern me is when the snow melts there will be lots of water and those wood baseboard might get damaged, any thoughts?

Thanks again!
 
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snorvet

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SNORVET, What about electric baseboard heat? It's 100 % efficient, cheap to install, no fumes, can't freeze. With the cost of energy today, the cost may be inline with other fuels.

I'm thinking about heat again now that it is 42 degrees in there. I'm thinking baseboard or an overhead electric unit with a fan.
 
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snorvet

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Thanks for your pic!

It's realy nice but do you worry about water issue when the floor is wet?

I live in Toronto and during winter months we have quite a bit of snow and what really concern me is when the snow melts there will be lots of water and those wood baseboard might get damaged, any thoughts?

Thanks again!

Yes I did think about the water, but the garage is 30' deep and we keep the vehicles just inside the garage doors. The foundation wall and bottom of trim next to the vehicles is about 2-3" above the floor, so I think the trim will only get wet by splashing. I'm going to try to heat it to where the snow melts and I can squeegee the water out of the garage and keep the floor dry as possible.
 

c.schulz

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mi
mhoffm911 -

my H&C product is a sealer - not 2 part epoxy. Here's a pic:

IMG_2089.jpg


Here's my test area - precast step after 1 coat:

IMG_2090.jpg


Sorry to say but you may end up being disapointed in the sealer. I used the same in my garage and its good to park on and clean.But it doesnt hold up to gas, oil products. One thing that is good is that you can repaint a section if it gets to messy.Sorry didnt read the complete posting but did you add sand for grip? This stuff gets slippery when wet.

Chris
 
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snorvet

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Sorry to say but you may end up being disapointed in the sealer. I used the same in my garage and its good to park on and clean.But it doesnt hold up to gas, oil products. One thing that is good is that you can repaint a section if it gets to messy.Sorry didnt read the complete posting but did you add sand for grip? This stuff gets slippery when wet.

Chris

I thought about gas, oil, etc. This garage is just for vehicles and I dont anticipate a gas\oil problem unless one of the cars spits up again. One of the reasons I chose this product was the ease of recoating. I didnt add sand for grip, but probably will with the next coat next year if its too slippery this winter.
 
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snorvet

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Well it's been 7 years since I remodeled the garage. I needed some storage, so I added 2 closets and built a small center cabinet.
 

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