new rotohead ratchet locked up

[stage20]

this is my first one. looks pretty basic.
picked up a husky on clearance at home depot and its loud compared to any ratchet ive ever owned.
removed the top torx screw on the reversing wheel and removed the cover. sprayed in some lubed and put the cover back on. its now locked up.

cleaned all the lube out, but its still locked up.
what did i mess up? there is the anvil, the geared pawl and a heart shaped looking spring. dropped it out and set the ratchet body right back over top of it.

looks like it only goes back in one way. got to be a trick to it.

 

[espyking83]

Did you set it to neutral before you took it apart?

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I think I read somewhere where the old SK/Facom Tuff 1 ratchets were really sensitive to the torque applied to that screw, I wonder if these aren't equally sensitive?

 

[defektes]

I think I read somewhere where the old SK/Facom Tuff 1 ratchets were really sensitive to the torque applied to that screw, I wonder if these aren't equally sensitive?

This, my SK Tuff 1/2 and 3/8 roto if overtorqued will cause it to seize.

 

[bonneyman]

The sliding pawl type of ratchets like oil. If the screw is too tight will lock it up, too loose and it backs out. That's why it needs thread lock.
And the little pin on the back side of the selector disc has to go in the bottom of the heart spring. It takes some practice and finesse to get that pin in the right position.

 

[stage20]

The sliding pawl type of ratchets like oil. If the screw is too tight will lock it up, too loose and it backs out. That's why it needs thread lock.
And the little pin on the back side of the selector disc has to go in the bottom of the heart spring. It takes some practice and finesse to get that pin in the right position.

Cake. I just had to walk awayand come back. The spring goes around the pin in the cover to hold the pawl off the body. Doh. Bonneyman dead on.