New Shop Build

[boots89]

Hello,

I finally started breaking ground on my new shop at my house. The current plan is a 50x100x17 pole barn built on trench/beam foundation with sturdi-wall wet set brackets. The foundation plan is to trench "10-12" wide set the rebar and form at finished grade with the foundation 12" above concrete pad acting as a curb wall before the building starts. The floor is going to reinforced, insulated, heated and 6" thick. The building 3-ply 2x8 laminated columns, 2x6 girts, 2x4 vertical purlins, 26g metal, 4'OC trusses (25-7-10 with 15.5" heel), 2' overhangs on all ends, insulated, metal ceiling and finished painted OSB walls.

Started saturday morning, we rented dozer and a compactor finshed up late sunday night. These pictures are not the finished pad due to it being dark out.
I did run into a snag the very back left hand corner of the building that will be below the white shed there is spring water coming down into the pad

 

[nadogail]

Good Start

 

[Black Oak]

You'll love the radiant floor heat . Congrats on the shop .

 

[matt_i]

Thought I recalled it...here is earlier info.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=443825

Be careful with those Studi-Wall brackets, they are "highly engineered". Its not just a fast alternative to using PermaColumns or simply burying the wood directly.

Things like: the weak axis bending moment isn't included in their calculations...the rest of the building structure has to be designed for that, is something that would concern me.

The rebar tails are 18" long on their wet set brackets, I would make sure those are covered and not sticking thru into the soil. Like you need 24" of concrete depth in a grade-beam.

Also there's the practical consideration of setting them while its wet enough to envelop the rebar tails and not-so-dry that they get vastly reduced strength from the interface not being perfect. I would advise a separate crew from the finishers to set those quickly and not as an afterthought.

My challenge is not to make you look bad on an internet forum, however think over structural considerations very very carefully. Buildings fail during storms/high wind events if one used engineered trusses, but corners cut in the structural stage are usually 100% loss on the rest of the labor and materials.

 

[boots89]

Thought I recalled it...here is earlier info.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=443825

Be careful with those Studi-Wall brackets, they are "highly engineered". Its not just a fast alternative to using PermaColumns or simply burying the wood directly.

Things like: the weak axis bending moment isn't included in their calculations...the rest of the building structure has to be designed for that, is something that would concern me.

The rebar tails are 18" long on their wet set brackets, I would make sure those are covered and not sticking thru into the soil. Like you need 24" of concrete depth in a grade-beam.

Also there's the practical consideration of setting them while its wet enough to envelop the rebar tails and not-so-dry that they get vastly reduced strength from the interface not being perfect. I would advise a separate crew from the finishers to set those quickly and not as an afterthought.

My challenge is not to make you look bad on an internet forum, however think over structural considerations very very carefully. Buildings fail during storms/high wind events if one used engineered trusses, but corners cut in the structural stage are usually 100% loss on the rest of the labor and materials.

No your fine, I post on here for a reason to discuss back and forth. Now you may have miss understood my foundation as it will be to frost depth of 36” and then 12” above the finished 6” thick floor. I was stating it’s was going to be 10-12” in width.
Yea that was my original post when I was thinking about doing a traditional stem-wall foundation. I have since talked to my step dad who is an engineer and does a ton of commercial red iron buildings from the foundation up to completion. He says we will have less disturbed soil using the trencher and uses this type of foundation all the time.

 

[kool55]

I am considering the same scenario. However i think the 8-10'' stem wall needs to sit on a 18-24'' wide footer with vertical rebar placed in the footer pour. Can't do that with a trencher.

 

[boots89]

I am no longer doing a traditional stem wall foundation. The plan now is to do a concrete beam foundation. Basically trench down to frost depth 10”-12” wide, set your rebar, form the upper portion and then pour the concrete.

 

[mkarlin]

Boots89
We are just breaking ground on our shop (50x140) free span truss with full foundation/frost wall. will be 5in thick flooring with radiant heat. (will do 2in XPS foam under the slab

Have been reading alot and all I know is there are alot of ways to do things. I just hope I don't mess up too much

 

[boots89]

Made some head way over the weekend with the catch basins/drainage system. Have a spring on the back corer where the second catch basin is going. But as I dig the trench I'm seeing a couple veins that water is migrating through.
We were going to cover the drainage pipe backup with the clay material.
But Then thought about adding 3" inches of #57 gravel under the 10" black outflow pipe to act at a French drain to allow any migrating water to flow out under the pipe. Any thoughts or should I run 4" perorated pipe along the solid drainage pipe?

 

[sean Buick 76]

Congrats that is so exciting!