New Shop Dilemmas

[Greg Smith]

Good Day everyone!

New to the site and seems there is a wealth of knowledge on here..

Building a new 30x40 shop and at this point I have poured frost walls and insulated 4' down in preperation for a heated floor.

This is where I am confused...I have backfilled leaving 2" below the door cut outs to install 2" of insulation under the poured floor and extended the insulation 5" up the walls for the poured floor therefore the floor will extend through the openings uninsulated??

Hope I am fairly clear on this??

So not sure about this portion of the floor extending outside the heated area and what I am going to lose??

My good friend kept the floor flush to the cut outs leaving the insulation exposed at the door and place polymer strips over it.

Should I remove fill and pour flush???

Think I need a beer

 

[Greg Smith]

Thanks for any help guys!!!

 

[drivesitfar]

Greg: do you know how to post pictures? i use the paper clip above where we write our posts to attach them like we do to attach pictures on emails. post up a few and if you have more than 7 to post make another post because only 7 pictures per post unless you use links which is a different animal.

so i don't have the answer to your questions, but i'm sure others here will if they see it. pictures will help and also how far north are you in Ontario because some members have to worry about the ground freezing when they are building? there are better sections to start a thread and if you can get some pictures up maybe i or one of us can help tell you where.

cheers and welcome

 

[Greg Smith]

Thanks,
Just becoming familiar with the site , I will try to get a couple pics on here!

As for frost the requirement by code is generally insulate 4' here.

 

[Greg Smith]

Couple pics, you can see the insulation 5" above cutouts which means concrete will protrude out the doors uninsulated..

Let me know what you guys think please.

Thanks again!!

 

[drivesitfar]

Greg: are you pouring a 5 inch cement floor? i'm assuming you want the floor to be level with the bottom of the door? can you lower the gravel or pour is a bit thinner at the door since it shouldn't have nearly the weight that coming through the garage doors will?

keep posting pictures and close ups will help the real experts. i just sold these buildings for almost 40 years and am still hoping to build one like yours.

cheers and no drinking until the garage is built and all the electrical and tool arrangements are planned because there are a ton of details. we always miss a few and some of us are lucky enough to do it right the first time.

have you looked at some of the garage builds in the garage gallery? you might also start a thread in the garage gallery since you've started and keep posting pictures to keep it at the top with your questions because some threads disappear quickly there.

 

[Greg Smith]

The actual poured floor will be flush with the insulation you see and have 2" of insulation under it in order to be completely encapsulated. So in the end you will see the 5" thick floor in the door cutouts.

 

[drivesitfar]

Greg: i can barely see the door frame even with my readers on so a couple close ups would be great. i wouldn't want to have my pad in the doorway if that is what you are saying so either pour the floor 2 or 3 inches there to be even with the doorway and slope if you need to. or raise the door cutout 5 inches so it isn't a cut out.

also when you say 2 inches of insulation i'm guessing you are talking thickness?

like i mentioned take a lot more pictures and post them here, but also start a new thread over in the garage gallery that might get some of the members that have had this issue so they can help solve your problem.

good luck and i have to run for a bit and do a few of my projects, but i'll check in later.

 

[Greg Smith]

Thanks so much for your time!!

 

[drivesitfar]

Greg: you are welcome. also you might read other member's threads with garages similar to yours and ask the question on their thread to see if they might have an answer or now that you are a member you can PM (private message) one of us. BTW the more you participate in the forum the more you get to know who knows what and the more we know you so we might drop everything to help.

if you do want to keep the door frame in the same spot can you remove some gravel also to make sure you get at least 3 inches of concrete so it doesn't crack on the slope?

cheers and again best of luck

 

[Greg Smith]

I am a bit confused, this is how the floor in my house is poured..

The actual 5" floor will be one solid slab from back of shop running a 2" slope right out the garage door.
If you enlarge the pic you will see the 2" of insulation below the man door where the insulation will be placed on the ground, then 5" of concrete poured on top..
Are you concerned with the floor protruding out the cutouts?

Again Thanks for your time!

 

[Greg Smith]

I will try to post some close up pics later in the week as I am slaving away at work right now.

Thanks.

 

[Greg Smith]

New Shp Dilemma

New Shop Dilemmas

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good Day everyone!

New to the site and seems there is a wealth of knowledge on here..

Building a new 30x40 shop and at this point I have poured frost walls and insulated 4' down in preperation for a heated floor.

This is where I am confused...I have backfilled leaving 2" below the door cut outs to install 2" of insulation under the poured floor and extended the insulation 5" up the walls for the poured floor therefore the floor will extend through the openings uninsulated??

Hope I am fairly clear on this??

So not sure about this portion of the floor extending outside the heated area and what I am going to lose??

My good friend kept the floor flush to the cut outs leaving the insulation exposed at the door and place polymer strips over it.

Should I remove fill and pour flush???

Think I need a beer

 

[drivesitfar]

Re: New Shp Dilemma

Greg: you are still in the introduction area. here's the link for the garage gallery http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7

start a new thread there titled maybe Greg's garage and the size and start with your pictures with the problem. then keep adding pictures of as you get them and with your progress to maybe gain a few followers to help you need any as the garage is built.

good luck

 

[Greg Smith]

Re: New Shp Dilemma

I would not say this is the most user friendly site, specially for a Millwright lol.

Thanks for your help.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Hello and welcome to the forum Greg all the best with your build and looking forward to following your progress.

 

[Greg Smith]

Thanks 1/2 cup..lol I am now officially in the Garage Gallery and have dubbed the project as Gregs Garage with the help of a couple fine Lads..

 

[Greg Smith]

Some progress including a close up of the grade for proposed pour..

 

[drivesitfar]

Greg: i'm sure you'll figure it out especially when you start reading threads of other members that have put in the same heating and flooring. ask questions on those threads if you read them and can't find the answers or keep posting pictures and asking questions on your new thread.

i didn't see any new pictures, but as i mentioned we are not in the hurry to get an answer so post some more when you have time.

cheers and good luck

 

[Greg Smith]

Just so you guys are aware I have posted a few pics in the new log called Gregs Garage..

 

[drivesitfar]

Greg: a couple of things you can do to get more viewers for your new garage thread is to go in your GJ profile and put a link in your signature like i have for a couple of my threads. some of the members have made theirs shorter by renaming theirs, but you get the idea.

also while you are in your profile you can click on Avitar and download a picture that will show up under your handle name for GJ.

i put a post on your garage thread already before i saw this and just trying to help. it looks like you are doing a great job and if it was me i'd probably pay to have the cement floor with heating in it even though I've done a lot of cement work.

good luck