New shop electrical

[TomL.]

So have put up a new shop; 30 x 40 x 12. Two 16 x 10 doors, am currently running openers with drop cords so TIME to get this wired.
I’ll have to trench from my main utility pole, roughly 30’.
I can be capable in running all the wires and connecting outlets/switches, but am stumped on exactly how to go about getting to everywhere and passing code. I’m rural so the only codes I HAVE to pass are with my provider and my ethics. I was planning to just use romex for the entire works, as will be insulating and putting up drywall in the coming months. Is this right?
From there, since it is a pole building, there are horizontal purlins instead of studs—can boxes be fastened to the sideways as they are, or do I have to place a pseudo-stud where I want the boxes?
Getting everything back to the breaker box is where my skill set shuts off—I’ll have someone help me do connections and such.
Just need some advice from those that can help me

 

[BillK]

Is the service going to be for just the shop ? Why would you not run it off your house panel ? That is usually a lot cheaper than getting a separate meter.

First step would be to see what your electric company requires.
I would do everything to code no matter what. That way if you ever sell there wont be any issues.
It would probably be well worth it to pay a local electrician for a couple of hours to come out and advise you the best way to go.

 

[TomL.]

I’ll have to trench either way, but idea was to go right from main service panel and knockout lead for shop. Plus I’d be concerned trenching over top of septic line coming from inside house

 

[bronc076]

Do you have a meter main on the pole, a box with both the electric meter and a circuit breaker that controls power to the house?

 

[sparky 1971]

So have put up a new shop; 30 x 40 x 12. Two 16 x 10 doors, am currently running openers with drop cords so TIME to get this wired.
I’ll have to trench from my main utility pole, roughly 30’.
I can be capable in running all the wires and connecting outlets/switches, but am stumped on exactly how to go about getting to everywhere and passing code. I’m rural so the only codes I HAVE to pass are with my provider and my ethics. I was planning to just use romex for the entire works, as will be insulating and putting up drywall in the coming months. Is this right?

Romex is fine

From there, since it is a pole building, there are horizontal purlins instead of studs—can boxes be fastened to the sideways as they are, or do I have to place a pseudo-stud where I want the boxes?

There are a few ways to do this, fastening to the purlins is one way, but I don't like it. If the purlins are the right height, you can use a 4X4 box with a bracket and a mud ring, the mud ring can be mounted so it's horizontal or vertical and one or two gang. 5/8" ring for 1/2" drywall, 3/4" mud ring for 5/8" drywall.

RACO 4" Galvanized Steel Square Box with Bracket

The RACO® four-inch, two-gang Galvanized Steel Square New Work Junction Box is 1-1/2 inches deep. It features 1/2- and 3/4-inch knockouts for a variety of wiring applications. It's recognized by contractors for its versatility in commercial and residential applications.

www.menards.com

RACO 2-Gang Galvanized Steel 5/8" Raised 4" Square Electrical Box Mud Ring

The RACO 4" 2-Gang Steel Square 2-Device Mud Ring is raised 5/8 of an inch. It features angled mounting slots to correct misalignment.

www.menards.com

RACO 1-Gang Galvanized Steel 5/8" Raised 4" Square Electrical Box Mud Ring

The RACO 4" Square Box 1-Device Mud Ring is raised 5/8 of an inch. It features angled mounting slots to correct misalignment.

www.menards.com

If you don't like the height that the existing purlins are, you can run a vertical 2X4 behind two of the horizontal boards and mount a regular 4X4 box to that board, then use a mud ring. I have no idea what the link comes up pardon our interupption, but it's legit.

RACO 4" Galvanized Steel Square Electrical Box

The RACO® four-inch two-gang Galvanized Steel Square New Work Box is 1-1/2 inches deep. It features 1/2- and 3/4-inch knockouts for a variety of wiring applications. It's recognized by contractors for its versatility in commercial and residential applications.

www.menards.com

If you want a welder, it will be the same principal but you will need to use a 2-1/8" deep box and a two gang mud ring. Those are also available with the bracket and that will be the easiest, but you can use a regular deep box and set the depth accordingly. The face of the box needs to be flush with the framing, the mud ring will wind up flush with the drywall.

RACO 4" Galvanized Steel Square Electrical Box

The RACO® four-inch, two-gang Galvanized Steel Square New Work Box is 2-1/8 inches deep. It features 1/2- and 3/4-inch knockouts for a variety of wiring applications. It's recognized by contractors for its versatility in commercial and residential applications.

www.menards.com

RACO 4" Galvanized Steel Square Electrical Box with Bracket

The RACO® four-inch, two-gang Galvanized Steel Square New Work Box is 2-1/8 inches deep. It features 1/2- and 3/4-inch knockouts for a variety of wiring applications. It's recognized by contractors for its versatility in commercial and residential applications.

www.menards.com

Getting everything back to the breaker box is where my skill set shuts off—I’ll have someone help me do connections and such.
Just need some advice from those that can help me

That's actually the easiest part of the job

 

[TomL.]

Really appreciate these points sparky! Was actually considering using plastic boxes, but almost certain you recommend steel for a reason that matters. Also didn’t think of the mud rings, have seen them but never really knew the application.
You starting the easy part is the last points…having no experience not necessary comfort in knowing how to do it, but also understanding that if I’m having someone help then I had better pay attention.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I would definitely check with your PoCo first on rates. Often PoCos charge higher monthly meter fees and higher kWh rates for second meters on properties. may be way cheaper to feed from house service.

 

[sparky 1971]

You can use plastic boxes but in order to do so you will have to put some scrap lumber behind the purlin. The box won't sit secure on a 1-1/2" wide board. I always go straight to the bracket boxes as long as the height will work out.