New shop heating?

[jmartin104]

Longtime lurker, first post. I have a shop I am setting up and need some advice. I plan to run wiring and insulate as well as install drywall. However, I think I need to address heating first. We get below zero in the winter but not too far and for too long. I'm thinking gas would be most efficient but also wondering about floor heating. I have done some research but there sure is a lot of information out there.

When not being used, I'm thinking 50 degrees but 65 when used. I really want to protect my wood and tools from humidity and rust.

Thoughts?

Shop details:
- 16' x 40' wood-framed, raised (not on a slab)
- Roll-up door
- 9' ceilings
- Location: Palmer, AK
- Usage: primarily woodshop, some storage, small engine work

 

[kbeefy]

Welcome to the Forum!

I'm from Alaska, lived there 40 years when I left in 2012. Still have Aunt, Uncle, cousins in Palmer/Wasilla and sister in Anchorage.

You don't have enough humidity to worry about rust as long as you have a dry floor.

If I was building up there I would do a gas boiler running in floor radiant heating. (to save money people have used residential hot water heaters for this) You'll never need AC

 

[TurnipTruck]

Alaskans Unite!
I would lean toward a separated combustion high-efficiency big maxx, especially with sawdust!
I’m assuming your “raised” floor means wood floor over crawl space? You could staple-up some heat tubes underneath, or staple down tubing and add gypcrete, then run a small boiler, but radiant heating doesn’t cope well with setbacks and should run at a constant temperature.

My first shop was a Quonset near Kenai with a boiler-heated floor: expensive install and I worried about it freezing (never got around to installing glycol) when gone in the winter.
Second shop was shallow and wide with a big maxx: no worries except when the wife left the door open (stupid liftmaster) for 8 hours at -20.
Third and final evolution is a multi room shop with lake view and high-efficiency ducted furnace, with a separated combustion big maxx as backup.

 

[65ranchero]

My 2 bay garage that was added after I moved up here does very well with Radiant floor heat 4 zone manifold all with PEX fed off my house boiler.
thermostat set at 58F all winter
2" foam in floor topped with 4 to 6" concrete ( can't remember exactly) 2x6 walls. one high bay to fit lift other bay 8.5 foot ceiling fully insulated.
get warm enough to work with out a coat.

 

[jmartin104]

Well, raised as in an exposed crawl space. It was built about a foot off the ground. The main supports are on concrete pilings so it's exposed underneath. This is a raw unfinished building so I have lots to do and I'd like to do it right.

 

[jmartin104]

Can't upload pics yet.

 

[Sumboodie]

Hey Ken, didn't know you were on here.

Welcome to the Forum!

I'm from Alaska, lived there 40 years when I left in 2012. Still have Aunt, Uncle, cousins in Palmer/Wasilla and sister in Anchorage.

You don't have enough humidity to worry about rust as long as you have a dry floor.

If I was building up there I would do a gas boiler running in floor radiant heating. (to save money people have used residential hot water heaters for this) You'll never need AC

 

[jmartin104]

Kbeefy, my shop has no insulation at the moment and a plywood floor. You don't think there's enough humidity for rust?

 

[toyotadriver]

30k vented gas/propane heater would be ideal.

 

[Ak Jim]

Nice to see more people from AK on here! Staple up underneath isn’t very efficient and I wouldn’t do that. So the floor is raised off of the ground by a little bit, how far above the ground and how do you plan on insulating the underside of the plywood floor? How are the walls supported? Are there footers 4 feet deep and then below grade walls that the shop walls rest on? Are you there long term? Can you remove the plywood floor and pour a slab?

 

[JeepJohn62]

Hi. I am in Palmer also.

I have a Modine HotDawg gas heater in my shop. Many people have installed slab heating and like it. But for me, I like to crank the heat to 65 when I need it and turn it down to 50 or so when I don't. Keeps my paint and other stuff from freezing. The boiler and slab heat are generally a slow recovery system plus much more $$$.

My shop is 34 x 36 insulated on slab.

John

Sent from my SM-A102U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[nadogail]

Why not give Bonny @ Industrial Boiler in Anchorage a call at 1+ 907 562 2897.

 

[jmartin104]

So the floor is raised off of the ground by a little bit, how far above the ground and how do you plan on insulating the underside of the plywood floor? How are the walls supported? Are there footers 4 feet deep and then below grade walls that the shop walls rest on? Are you there long term? Can you remove the plywood floor and pour a slab?

I'm going to see if I can figure out how to share my OneDrive with pictures. Until then, it's built on 2x8 frame supported on 4x6 runners/skids on Dobie blocks? It's raised about 18" off the ground which I'm told was dug down and filled with gravel. Why they did not just poor concrete is beyond me. I have no idea how deep the footers were dug.

I'm looking for ideas on insulating the floor as well. This is a project in the rough. The previous owner built out the basics but had to move. I need just about everything to make a nice shop. We are here for at least 5 years.

I'm open to all ideas/suggestions.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ark3-0_Xv9Qdhq1_m57YpsfBAVKXmA?e=21eLhv

 

[Ak Jim]

Please keep us updated on what you do with this.

 

[65ranchero]

My 2 bay garage that was added after I moved up here does very well with Radiant floor heat 4 zone manifold all with PEX fed off my house boiler.
thermostat set at 58F all winter
2" foam in floor topped with 4 to 6" concrete ( can't remember exactly) 2x6 walls. one high bay to fit lift other bay 8.5 foot ceiling fully insulated.
get warm enough to work with out a coat.

My 2 bay garage that was added after I moved up here does very well with Radiant floor heat 4 zone manifold all with PEX fed off my house boiler.
thermostat set at 58F all winter
2" foam in floor topped with 4 to 6" concrete ( can't remember exactly) 2x6 walls. one high bay to fit lift other bay 8.5 foot ceiling fully insulated.
get warm enough to work with out a coat.

Do we have a spammer here?

OliviaKind just about word for word quoted me. What gives?

 

[Czechsix]

Please keep us updated on what you do with this.

Older thread, but I'd also be interested in what you wind up with....

I went with a Toyo in a 14x40 shop.