New shop-Need insulating advice

[gnxtc2]

This is my new shop. The previous owner just rented it out and did not maintain it at all. I'm in the process of fixing it up.

I've already sealed up some of the windows and replaced the old style industrial wrought iron flip out windows.

Need some ideas on how to insulate it.

On the ceiling, I going to install white ceiling liner (tin) stuff. Do I need a vapor barrier? Should I do bats (joists are 24" OC) or blown in cellulose or fiberglass?

I am debating on what to do on the walls. Leave them alone of stud them out? The walls are 12" blocks. Would filling the block with insulation help?

I am heating the place with a 110K Payne 80% gas furnace. Pick it for $250 brand new.

Before

After

Inside

For more pics:
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/578385502VkSMpC

Thanks

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[jklingel]

On the ceiling, I going to install white ceiling liner (tin) stuff. Do I need a vapor barrier? •• AIR barrier for sure. VAPOR depends on where you live. Zone 7&8 require a real VB; others a vapor retarding paint and sealed sheet rock system. Am not familiar w/ "tin", but it sounds like condensation waiting to happen, and may be an additional (in most of the area) vapor barrier. Why not good old sheet rock?

Should I do bats (joists are 24" OC) or blown in cellulose or fiberglass? •• Fiberglass batts are garbage. Cellulose, cotton, or mineral (rock) wool batts are better. Blown in cellulose is the best.

I am debating on what to do on the walls. Leave them alone of stud them out?••*@#$I would glue XPS to them, caulking all joints. Then stud against that to help hold them, then fill the studs w/ one of the above batts, if you want more insulation. I don't think an additional vapor barrier is appropriate in that situation; see buildingscience.com, or greenbuildingadvisor.com to check me out on that.

Would filling the block with insulation help? •• No.


[email protected]

PS: good luck to ya!

 

[SM Racing]

Your block walls will **** the heat out of the shop as fast as you can make it. While it works well in the summers, the block ***** for insulation in the winter. I would stud it and then put up some foam board then maybe even some bats. You should also sheath the ceiling and get some insulation up there. Blow in is really cheap.

Of course all of this would depend on the permanancy of your occupation. If you just renting I wouldn't throw tons of money at the shop, especially in things you can't carry with you when you leave.

 

[isr2kba]

Nice work. I assume you own that building?

If you do, then now's the time to make it as efficient and comfortable as you can!!

 

[mrchuck]

S M Racing is absolutely correct.
I used batts and 1" foam board over the Studs, Silver side out. This way, you will know where the studs are for hanging shelves, cabinets,etc.
Put up a ceiling, with several crawl spaces, and blow it full of insulation.
The roll-up door,they make insulated add-on panels for exactly that.
If you don't do this, you will freeze your *** off in the Winter, and then melt in the Summer.

 

[Dan0myte]

Treat that shop as if you were insulating a basement.

Buy 2" Foamboard insulation, with the shiplap edges so they overlap. Glue the boards directly to the concrete block with foamboard-approved construction adhesive and then tape all of the joints to make a solid thermal break. Then stud over top of the foamboard. No vapour barrier needed. You can definitely add some fibreglass batts to the studding to add to the R-value if desired but the 2" foam will be sufficient on it's own.

The ceiling joists should be filled with R22 Roxul made for 24" OC studding. Finish that up with vapour barrier and then your white ceiling liner.

With that in place you will be toasty warm in the winter. Take the advice of the guy who lives in Arctic-like Canadian winters.