To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

New shop, old question?

Mamzerook

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
6
Location
North Okanagan BC
Hi guys,
I am building a shop/shed in the back yard, I am restricted to 16'4" tall, and 864sq'. My plan is a 12' wall with scissor or coffered truss to get clearance for a 16x12 door. I would love some opinions pro and con on the dimensions. would a 24x36 or 28x30 building be better? The shop will mostly be a storage/workshop. The quads and dirtbikes, a 17' boat, and somewhere to sip pops and vacuum my crewcab longbox or the wifes camry. This isnt a parking garage.

Any input is welcome. Thanks!
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

caper150

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2007
Messages
1,106
Location
Mantorville MN
If your planning on putting a crewcab longbox in it I would make it 28X30, 24X36 is a little tight. unless your doors are on the 24' side.
 

dbabicky

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2012
Messages
874
Location
NE Wisconsin
If 682 SQ/FT is your max, you are well over that with your dimensions listed. I'm guessing you have to build at least a 682 sq/ft building.
 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,106
Location
SE MI
I don't believe you're going to get a 12' door on a 12' wall. You're going to room for the header above the door.

Agree. I don't know how to frame that either. With a 16' door opening, you will probably have to use a GluLam, but it still can not be above the top plate.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

CNGsaves

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
13,233
Location
KS and OK
I don't believe you're going to get a 12' door on a 12' wall. You're going to room for the header above the door.

Wouldn't it depend on the materials used?? Couldn't he install a steel I-beam as the header for garage door and just "skin" it with wood?

He could embed metal poles on each end of the I-Beam (ie within the walls) to hold up the I-Beam.
 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,106
Location
SE MI
I just asked an (unlicensed) carpenter friend about this.

Assuming


  1. you are installing the door on a gable end
  2. you are using roof trusses

Then the gable wall's only load is itself. The top plate needs to be continuous from side to side, but no header is required for the door. Just a nailer plate to attach the brackets.

Yes, scissors or coffered trusses must be used to allow clearance for the door when it is up.
 
OP
M

Mamzerook

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
6
Location
North Okanagan BC
My mistake, square footage is 864, 24x30. I was wondering if longer would be better or wider. My carpenter said the gable end bottom chord could be reinforced to attach the door roller, and the clearance inside would come from the vaulted eng. trusses. I would only vault the first seven trusses to get enough room for the door.
Any thoughts or considerations would be welcome, I haven't put shovel to dirt yet, and hope to have thought of as many possible options or opinions as I can.

Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom