Hi All, shop went up slowly, started last fall. 32x34, truss roof, doors are on so all closed up. Choices to be decided regarding interior walls, lighting, etc. For wall covering, what have you found that you like, drywall, plywood, truss core style product, etc? I’m kinda leaning towards plywood walls, drywall ceiling. I’ve seen the plywood painted, looks nice! For lighting, I’m looking for 8’ LED fixtures, probably need eight of them, the peepers need light at this age! Any and all suggestions welcome.
New shop questions!
- Thread starter Busboy
- Start date
nadogail
Well-known member
Cost has always been a consideration when making changes to my workshop. For that reason I used Drywall and white Eggshell gloss paint.
I try not to beat up the walls. Heavy items get screwed to studs or French Cleats.
I try not to beat up the walls. Heavy items get screwed to studs or French Cleats.
I really like those garage doors. Shop looks great. In regards to lighting I went with 9 13,000lum UFO LEDs on my 45x50x14 shop. They light up the whole shop quite well. When I got them 5 years ago they were $49.99 a piece. Not sure what they go for now. I like the idea of the plywood walls for ease of hanging stuff. I went with steel liners which look nice, but every time I mount something on the walls I feel guilty about drilling holes in the metal. LOL. Keep us posted on your progress, and keep the pics coming.
Lumpy102
Well-known member
Really like the look of your shop!
I did all 1/2 inch plywood in my shop, walls and ceiling, for a variety of reasons. Its tougher than drywall, its up when its up, no tape and mud, no dust from sanding, no screw pops. I can take any or all of it down if I need access into a wall. 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint, done. you can attach stuff to it anywhere. I also felt that if I had to pay someone to mud and tape the labour would be costlier than the plywood. I don't have exact numbers to back up that thought.
I put 3 rows of continuous LED lights up, 24 ft x 3 in a 28 ft shop,
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Went with hyper lights, pretty happy with them and easy install. They don't like the extreme cold but come around with heat. Have fans off of ceiling and happy with those, nothing fancy, just circulating the heat. Everything is sheetrocked and painted with a light gray tent. Some times wish I would have run air line's but air compresser is on wheels and decent air hoses so all's good. Plenty of plug-ins 120, 220`s, building upper cabinets and then work bench now. Not sure but there is a flicker of light at the end of tunnel I think? Maybe a water fountain would have been good?
In my 30x34x10 I did the 1/2” plywood walls and rock ceiling. It worked out well with the ply set vertically. Due to cost I used 8’ sheets and added a 2’ up top with a 1x4 band around the seam. Plywood is pricey today but there is real value in being able to access the interior walls when you want to with a minimum of fuss, especially at the elec panel. As careful as you are in planning it is amazing what you will forget/overlook and want into the walls to add/fix. Some use OSB but I can’t stand the stuff.
For lighting I laid out the shop in individually switched quadrants. I put 4 4’ Costco leds flush mounted per quadrant. It was excellent. As I did not know what the lay-out of gear, tables, boxes, etc was going to be I installed receptacles at 18’ and 54” alternating every 6’ all the way around. I also ran a 50 amp plug by each door so I could run the welder where I wanted. I put two 20A plugs on each wall as well for my jointer, TS, BS, etc.
Not putting 220 in the slab was a miss. I ended up adding ceiling drops to minimize the damned cords across the floor.
For lighting I laid out the shop in individually switched quadrants. I put 4 4’ Costco leds flush mounted per quadrant. It was excellent. As I did not know what the lay-out of gear, tables, boxes, etc was going to be I installed receptacles at 18’ and 54” alternating every 6’ all the way around. I also ran a 50 amp plug by each door so I could run the welder where I wanted. I put two 20A plugs on each wall as well for my jointer, TS, BS, etc.
Not putting 220 in the slab was a miss. I ended up adding ceiling drops to minimize the damned cords across the floor.
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Notgrownup
Well-known member
I used OSB because of cost at the time. All screwed in with Torx deck screws. I painted all the boards on sawhorses before I installed… it’s a woodworking and motorcycle maintenance shop for me with mini split climate control. I wanted simple. I dont use it a whole lot and i went with T12 4’ double fixtures . I will switch to LED event I believe. All in good time but I have great lighting for now For what I use it for.
CraigStu
Well-known member
Very nice shop. I have 4ft LEDs in my garage. They work great but I will be adding maybe 3 more since I didn't think to specify where the builder put them. Put them on at least 2 switches and maybe 3 so you can have one centrally located that you can turn on by itself. Nice for just grabbing something quickly. Put 120V outlets every 4 ft on all walls at about 48 in off the floor so above workbenches and tool boxes but below cabinets. Think hard about where you need 240V outlets. Every time I ad a circuit to the breaker box it is a real pain. Next one is going to have the drywall removed floor to ceiling and maybe 4ft wide and covered w/ plywood or osb held in place w/ just a few screws. I am very happy w/ drywall on the walls and ceiling. I have never had a problem hanging anything. Worst comes to worst you span 2 studs w/ a 1x3 or 4 and hang off of that. That is how my plastic bolt bins are hung although my 1x3 spans 3 studs. It is a garage not a custom kitchen and the bins mostly hide the 1x3. .
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Multiple 4' would be cheaper ! Mount one lower over any benches ! (Old man, also poor eye sight.)
If you know the angle of what you are working on, consider switched lighting on the wall(s) about 1'-2' below the ceiling.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
racecougar
Well-known member
Liner panel and Barrina 4' LED's here.
dcg9381
Well-known member
I like ply/OSB for vertical walls in the shop because it's structural and you can screw things into it. Certainly not the least expensive option. The other advantage is that I can take down the 4x8 sheets if I need to rewire or replumb something behind the wall.
Ceiling - mine is open... If I was going to close it in, drywall would probably be least expensive. If I had an asthetic choice, I'd probably use R-panel or if I could get it, rusted farmhouse panels. Little harder to trim out though.