New shop under construction

[River Runner]

Thought I’d share some pics in the event it provides ideas and to get suggestions. I decided to do this mainly out of block due to lumber costs, although now it’s dropped, which has been helpful for sheathing.

I plan on adding shed roofs by sistering 2x12s to the trusses. I goofed and forgot to get dropped gable trusses when I reordered them so I’m either going to make ladders for the rakes or use corbels to support should I extend beyond a foot.

My plan is to insulate the exterior of the block with foam the over with 4x8 panels and trim for a board a batten look. I wanted the inside of the shop walls to be painted block so it’s robust and easy to clean. Plus my little kids can play inside during the winter and not beat up the walls.

I’ve noticed most commercial buildings such as tire shops, jails and a slew of government buildings are block with no interior or exterior insulation other than perhaps filling some of the cells with foam, which doesn’t exactly seem effective to me. Do they just pay a lot to heat these buildings?

This is definitely the biggest structure I’ve built and I’ve changed a lot from my original plan, mainly due to material cost changes, but after some serious hard work the past month it’s finally taking shape.

 

[Ak Jim]

Impressive! How big?

 

[jack stand]

Nice job

 

[Bert_]

I think many of the buildings you're talking about have 2 rows of block with insulation in between.

 

[River Runner]

40x64. Ceiling will be 13’. I wanted to go higher but didn’t have it in me to lay another 3’ of block. Plus my skid steer only gives me about 9’ for the forks. I’ll get 11’ 1/2” doors and can still fit my 2 post so it works.

I’d be interested in peoples opinion and thoughts regarding my insulation and siding detail.

My plan is 2” foam then 2x furring strips laid over the foam and anchored into the poured cells (every 2’) with Tapcons, followed by 1.5” foam filling the area between the furring strips. Then a house wrap…not sure it’s necessary with the foam over block? This leaves a flat surface to attach my siding and not a gap between foam and siding.

Id end up with 3.5” of foam, 2” of which is continuous. My thought is that the thermal mass of the block and an R15 ish exterior that has no thermal breaks should be sufficient. The ceiling will get blown in insulation.

I wanted to do hydronic heat in the floor but my budget got really pushed due to the increase in materials. So, it will be a hanging propane or electric heater and a wood stove.

 

[River Runner]

I think many of the buildings you're talking about have 2 rows of block with insulation in between.

That makes more sense.

 

[Bert_]

Id end up with 3.5” of foam, 2” of which is continuous. My thought is that the thermal mass of the block and an R15 ish exterior that has no thermal breaks should be sufficient. The ceiling will get blown in insulation.

I wanted to do hydronic heat in the floor but my budget got really pushed due to the increase in materials. So, it will be a hanging propane or electric heater and a wood stove.

R15 is fine. Probably better than a lot of houses when you factor in how little air leakage you will have.

I really like an overhead tube heater in a building like this. Much more comfortable than forced air.

 

[jack stand]

I think you can skip the house wrap on the outside of the block. I like your insulation details and if you can find p-iso foam, @ 3 1/2" you could be in the low 20's r value just with that. They used to insulate block by dumping vermiculite into the webbing. I don't know what it add up to theoretically but it may be inexpensive and a fairly easy job. Afaik is a plant potting soil or additive that can't be too expensive by the pallet. Do a little web searching on that.
Start checking c/l for used insulation. I've bought this before several times and it can be a huge savings. What I've gotten was 1 1/2" polyiso 4x8's removed from a flat commercial roof, a they are everywhere all across the country. Think every Walmart, HD and Lowes type building, they have this on it. Foam that has been wet still has the same insulating values once it's dried out. Sometimes there will be corners missing and it all will have minor screw holes from the original attachment, probably ok to ignore or a squirt of "can foam" in them will fix it up.
$10-12 per sheet is what I've seen around here lately, that's a huge difference from the blue or pink foam and both of them have around a RT per inch vs. 7 per inch for p-iso (brownish foam)