New slab / cure time / product for my area

[nathank]

Hello all! This website is friggin awesome!! So much great information here.

I look forward to posting build pics of my shop as soon as I find a couple of my missing pics.

On to my question....

My shop was built this past summer, the slab was poured in late June, so it has been there for approx 3 months or so. How long do I need to let the new slab cure before I go over it with epoxy flooring?

What product would be best suited for my area? I live in the dry heat of West Texas, so I would really like something that isn't going to pick up with all the hot tires that will be parked on it.

I have been eyeballing the Rust-O-Leum(sp?) epoxy kit. I haven't been able to find any bad reviews on it. Or perhaps the Epoxy-Coat product?

I am new to this, so what all would I need to do to the new slab to prepare it? There are no oil stains on it.

 

[AlphaGarage]

The minimum time from pour to coat is 28 days, so you're fine.

A good epoxy shouldn't have any problem with your environment.

If you haven't come across any bad reviews yet, you haven't looked at enough reviews here.

Even with a new floor to get best results you still need to etch it.

 

[menz300]

Yes I agree with Fred look just a bit harder and you will find some not so nice things about those products. On the flip side you will find bad things about most any product if you look hard enough. Fred is right on 28 days is fully cured and still need proper preparation.....

 

[nathank]

I looked through the forums most of the day yesterday and didn't see any negative items about the Rustoleum product.

Maybe you all can share some of the complaints?

What is a better product in the same price range?

 

[Jaguar Fan]

Welcome to the forum. You'll find a mix of vendors, do-it-yourselfers, and professional garage floor companies here. I'm a DIYer with only a couple floors under my belt, so I defer to the more experienced guys... but until one of them chimes in... here's my $.02.

I think Rustoleum/Quickrete sell two separate types of product: water based and solvent based. The Rustoleum Pro product is solvent based, I think, and the regular Rustoleum product is water based.

Many DIYers start their thought process on doing an epoxy on their floor by looking at the kits at Home Depot or Lowes; they are usually the water-based product. These kits are pretty inexpensive, and it sure seems like it would be a good idea. Those products seem to have a fairly high failure rate.

You can end up with a high quality floor or a very low quality floor, with a few gradations in between.

The easiest, and most costly, way to get a good floor is to have a reputable professional do it with a high quality product. All you have to do is write a check. You'll end up with something you love. You'll pay a couple thousand bucks, but assuming the professional is reliable and competent, it will last you a long, long time. A pro can be finished in just a day or two so you can park & use the garage almost right away; a DIY job can easily take you a week of work (plus wait time).

The cheapest way, and something that may only last a year or two, is to use an inexpensive water-based product - the kind you'll find at Home Depot or equivalent. When they fail, you'll end up with hot-tire pickup (ask me how I know) and it sux.

So, in between, is a DIY job but instead of inexpensive water-based product, you get a product where the components are labeled "100% solids". (there are some supposedly poor quality 100% solids products, but many good ones). The product costs more, but given you're spending several days of your life prepping the floor and applying the material, the extra cost per hour is minimal. The downside of 100% solids products is most of them require you to work very quickly... and if it is your first time, that might be hard for you. Check something called the "pot life". Also, you really have to follow the directions to a "T".

In between for a DIYer are products that are solvent based (not water based). While not 100% solids, these products can be very good. Solvent based products have a longer pot life, so in that sense they are more forgiving during application.

Some people report they have OK results with water-based products, but many do not.

My first floor was a rustoleum type water based product. I have had the hot tire lift and overall it doesn't compare with my 2nd floor, where I used a higher quality product.

Here's my project thread for my 2nd floor -- in the dry heat of Las Vegas, using a solvent based product: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16957

Good luck! And post some before & after pics!

 

[nathank]

Thank you for your reply JF. Your floor looks friggin awesome. I see there is a Devoe dealer in my town so I guess this might be a possibility for me.

Whatever I use it won't be a water based product. If I use the Rustoleum I will go with the pro solvent based kit for sure.

One of my issues is that my space is 24' x 24' which comes out to 576 sq ft, and all these kits are for 500 sq ft. Grrrr!!!

 

[CaveDweller]

Well everything so far sounds good to me, there is a company here in Michigan called "U-Coat-It". I work for one of big 3 and they use "U-Coat-It" and I work on it every day and it is very durable but also expensive ( about $200 a gallon ) but it's supposed to be the best. ( ucoatit.com ) My only gripe with it or any coating is a little oil goes a long way if dripped on it and it is slippery, but it does mop very quick and clean

 

[SC-Eric]

Hi NathanK,

First...

On the flip side you will find bad things about most any product if you look hard enough.

I'm going to have to disagree with this one...

Next, you might want to talk to Fred (Alphagarage) about purchasing a quality product from him (our stuff). As you can read right here we have alot of happy customers. AND... Fred is pretty good with the help too!

HOWEVER, whether you buy a quality Wolverine Coatings system or whether you don't... you should NOT purchase either a waterborne OR solventborne product. You should consider purchasing a good quality 100% solids system.

Next, when you consider value... it's all about how strong the polymer is and how THICK it is when it dries/cures. If you purchase a solventborne system you pay less per gallon BUT will pay MORE per dry mil (thickness) on the floor. So, if you apply a 100% solids product at 20 mils thick (wet) it will dry/cure 20 mils thick. If you apply a solventborne product that is 40% solids at 20 mils thick it will only be 8 mils thick when it dries. In addition, you can't apply a 40% solids product in one coat at 20 mils because it will trap the solvent in it and fail. Since solvented products have MANY different levels of solids... you'll have to do the math for yourself. Even at the high end of 77% solids... if you applied it at 20 mils wet it would only dry at 15.4 mils dry (again, you'd have to do this in multiple coats). SO, when comparing the cost... do the math...

Next, as the solvent evaporates it will leave a microporous structure in the film. The difference between 100% solids and solventborne can be likened to hardwood flooring. The 100% solids product could be compared to regular flooring while the solventborne could be likened to the same hardwood with about a million little holes drilled in it. Obviously, the more dense floor is going to outlast the porous floor. Every hole (pore) is an oportunity for dirt, oil, or other chemicals to attack it (as well as abrasion).

Now, I'm obviously partial to our products and so is Fred (at least he better be)... so... just ask anyone on this board who has used our products. And, if your budget won't allow it... the advice is still worth what you paid for it! Good Luck!

 

['the epoxy floor guy']

Here is MY opinion:

a "good 100% solids epoxy" is not the "only" good solution.

Our 4th - 5th generation "epoxies" are formulated quite differently. I will not argue with Wolverine. There products as far as I can tell are of Great Quality.

Are they the "best" ? Is a Chevy better than a Ford? I bet that will get a lot of different opinions right?

Is an Infinity better than a Ford or Chevy?

Is a Mercedes better than an Infinity?

What about a Bently? is it better than a Mercedes?

If you want the "Best" car What kind would it be?

If everyone wanted the "BEST" why would Saturn exist or Honda?

Sometime the "best" quality may not be the "best" choice. If you have a Billion dollars and want to just get to the airport you will ride in a limo. If you don't a Ford may work just as good.

Every person who has posted in this forum will have different levels of Quality / Features / Cost / Installation, that will make it the "best" choice for them.

Ok I will get off my soap box.

But to answer your question Directly.

The rustoleum product is NOTORIOUS for Failing under the "hot tire test" I would recommend a better quality product, Wolverine's or mine would be TWO choices of MANY that would work.

As to the prep. Again the "best" way is to grind prep. This is something that you NEED to do in order for ANY product to perform well. I think MOST people on this forum would agree that had the ability/availability of a diamond grind prep was an option that would have been their choice.

Hot Tire pick up is the 'issue' that will benefit the most by using a grind prep option.

At least do an acid etch and add our BOND to the epoxy brand you choose to give the product extra BITE into the concrete.

 

[sberry]

Just curious for epoxy guy, do you have shot blast machine?

 

['the epoxy floor guy']

NO,

We apply what is commonly called a "thin Mil" system, If you use a shot blaster it makes VERY deep groves in the concrete. This would make a MESS out of a floor for our product.

We use a 7" stand up grinder and a 19" Lite-Prep Machine.

 

[nathank]

I really appreciate all the responses.

I really like the look and feedback on the Wolverine product. I contacted Fred and a few others to see if he could provide a quote for the product to complete my shop.

I really have no conception of what the different products cost aside from the sticky thread which didn't include Wolverine.