New Slab Questions, with Densifier/Sealer In Mind

[jbrentd]

I will be starting a new garage build soon and I think I want to go with the Ghostshield 4500/8510 combo, based on the research I have done. Although I would like some sheen/gloss to the finish, I would prefer the durability of the penetrating sealers.

My questions are:

1. What type of finish I should ask for from the concrete contractor so that it will beat accept the 4500 densifier and end up with the best results?
2. Do I ask him to leave out any certain products (e.g. sealers, curing agents, etc)?
3. If the answer to 3 is yes, are there any concerns with curing during the 28 day waiting period?

Lastly, please post up any tips, tricks, or pictures of your floors with these types of products.

Thanks
Brent

 

[ConCretin]

I'll leave the specific product recommendations to the experts but I would definitely recommend a moist cure if you intend to apply sealers hardeners, epoxy, etc. Even a dissipating curing compound must be mechanically removed so as not to interfere with the bond of subsequent product applications.

The goal of moist curing is simply to prevent the premature evaporation of the mix water in the concrete. While water is often used to accomplish this, it's only used to seal or cover the surface. The concrete doesn't need any extra water. My preferred method is a curing fabric such as Conkure. It's a little pricey, but you just wet down the concrete, roll out the fabric and you're done. You could also use poly but it tends to mark the concrete or just wet the concrete continuously. Curing can be a pain but it's worth the effort to achieve a strong durable surface.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I will be starting a new garage build soon and I think I want to go with the Ghostshield 4500/8510 combo, based on the research I have done. Although I would like some sheen/gloss to the finish, I would prefer the durability of the penetrating sealers.

My questions are:

1. What type of finish I should ask for from the concrete contractor so that it will beat accept the 4500 densifier and end up with the best results?
2. Do I ask him to leave out any certain products (e.g. sealers, curing agents, etc)?
3. If the answer to 3 is yes, are there any concerns with curing during the 28 day waiting period?

Lastly, please post up any tips, tricks, or pictures of your floors with these types of products.

Thanks
Brent

1. I would go power troweled, but it is up to you.
2. Curing agents are ook, but no cure n seals or sealers
3. Not typically, but your contractor would be the expert on that.

8510 does not add any gloss. You might consider going hand-troweled, etching, and doing a coat of clear polyurea. You have to pick your poision. Hard to get both and have it work

 

[jbrentd]

@LLWillysfan & @Garage Flooring Thank you both for the replies. Trying to keep the floor treatment cheap, but effective. It'll be a working shop floor that will see automotive fluids and the occasional welding.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Cheap is very expensive in the long run

The most practical method is the 4500/8510

A little more expensive but more attractive and no punch through would be the clear poly