New Slabs, Finish and Sealer Questions

[Triumph1200]

The garage and the pole barn will the floors poured shortly how should the concrete crew finish each area? I’m also told that normally they will put down a sealer, not sure if that is what is needed, don’t want to strip it off when I end up using one of the many products that are discussed on the site. To say ‘m a little confused with all the finish choices is a mild understatement.
Pole barn 80 x 40. Wife’s studio work area is 40 x 40 heated. The area will have tables, chairs, benches and storage cabinets. She is looking for a finish that is easy to keep clean and sweep up. She is not interested in an epoxy surface, doesn’t see the need and can’t justify the cost. No chemicals, vehicles, oils or welding to worry about, foot traffic only.
The other 40 x 40 is unheated storage for small Kubota tractor and implements, motorcycles, 47 Ford pickup, yard equipment, wooden crates and pallet racking. It will not be used for vehicle maintenance but I’m sure something will leak oil or hydraulic fluid.
Attached garage 30ft deep 40ft long heated. Parking for two daily drivers and plans for a future lift. Planning on a 5” slab, 3000psi. This is where I’ll play, toolboxes, vehicle maintenance, motorcycle and ATV repair, working on classic cars and trucks. Floor needs to be protected from oil, hydraulic fluid and Michigan road salt.
My main question at this time is how should the concrete be finished and what sealer if any should the concrete crew put down in each area?

Thanks in advance for all replys

 

[Toomanytools?]

Surprised no one has responded yet to this. Your guys most likely will put down a Diamond coat or Silicon based sealer. You can tell them what to use or don't and you apply yourself. If all you need is a sealer which sounds like it, there is Ghost Shield, and HD40 and some others. If the concrete is power troweled and you want a bit of a gloss the HD40 is sprayed on and burnished in, this may be a good choice for they wife's area.
That's a start good luck.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Sorry for the delay. LOL.
Ask for a smooth trowel, burned or slick finish (no finish sealers) if you want a densifier or guard product like our HD40 Concrete StainGuard.
http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/densifiers/hd40-concrete-stainguard.html

Ask for a smooth trowel finish (no slick troweled or burned) if you want a more substantial sealer like SEC Sealer or HD6525MMA. You will still have to acid etch for these on new concrete as your floor will lack porosity.
http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-sealers/sec-sealer.html

 

[Armorpoxy]

Smooth, not broomed finish. No added sealers as if you want to coat this will need to be removed.

 

[Triumph1200]

Thanks for the reply's. How long after pouring before I can acid etch?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Floors should cure for at least a month prior to working on them. Sellers are much more forgiving than epoxies if the floor is not fully cured and has moisture.

 

[850xpeps]

Lots of time we will spray dealer on fresh poured to seal the moisture is to help the cure.

I don't know what your climate is like but if you have freeze thaw and moisture you don't want a smooth surface in an unheated storage area. Anything with a risk of freeze thaw should have air entrained cement and broom finish so the surface doesn't spald or pop off.

 

[RPH]

Ghostshield densifier and 8505 are designed to resist salt, and ice. In fact ice won't stick to it.

 

[rburke65]

The initial sealer applied by the concrete finish folks is there to retard the evaporation of moister from the new concrete. If you don't have this applied it is usually suggested that you keep the surface wet for 3....4....or more days. I am of the belief thattheslower it cures the harder it will be. Then after a month or so is when you can apply your surface protection.