New to me Champion compressor

[Todd.Brock]

I found a Champion. The model is hard to read but it's a VRV5-8. ( I think). New in 1996. It was used until a few months ago when it was replaced for a higher CFM unit. Owner replaced all the reed valves, plates and gaskets last summer and the motor in 2008. The motor is the "down" side if their is one. Its a 3450 RPM AO Smith. Per Champions website, the pump puts out about 16.5 CFM at 175 and 20 CFM at 100psi. It spins about 770 rpm. If you put a 7.5 horse motor it speeds up to about 990 rpm and 25CFM. It was bought new, used in the same corner with an auto drain for its entire life until it was swapped out. He has all the Gardner Denver receipts and invoices for the intake plates and valves from last summer. He even kept a maintenance log. It has a few gaps, but its the only person I have met that keeps a log. The guy runs an aluminum wheel refinishing business. He said it was used daily, but works fine. I said its essentially going to the retirement home. I won't use it a 10th of he did. Anyway, paid $625. My IR is going on CL this week if a guy who wanted to buy it doesn't come through.

 

[bsaint]

The speed of the motor leads me to believe its not the original and was replaced by the wrong one.

 

[Todd.Brock]

It was replaced in 2008 by a place here in town. I know that Champion specs that model with a 1725 and 3450. I was surprised when I saw that in Champions literature.

 

[bsaint]

I guess you can always do the math to find out your real pump speed.

 

[Ben Buck]

IMHO, I would just let it RIP RALPH !!! Use it till it BLOWS !!! If it has gone this long, it will work!!

 

[A_Pmech]

Hi Todd,

There's nothing wrong with a 3450RPM motor. The fans are a little louder than a slower motor, but that's about it. You won't notice a measurable difference in electrical life. Bearing life will be lower, but motor bearings are a dime a dozen.

Run it!

 

[Todd.Brock]

Finally got the compressor home and hooked up tonight. Unbelievably quiet. 79db compared to the 85 db from IR. I use an iPhone app with the door down and 5 feet away. I sold the IR this week for $625 so I am only out some gas. The thing is dirty as can be, but my only real concern is the amount of oil that was blowing out the tank drain. The copper tube down the side had an oily residue as well. Does that mean the rings are shot? It was too late to let it run a full cycle and the tank drain hissed a bit. The slight "slapping" noise sounds like the belts are a bit loose. I tried to tighten them but its hard with one person.

Anyway, here is the video.

 

[Fixnair]

Looks like you scored big time. The oil in the tank is from the crankcase. Something is wrong with your piston/cylinder/ring assembly. Worn out probably. Live with it as long as you can.

 

[zkling]

Nice compressor Todd!!! A guy that repairs wheels, humm did you but it from the Wheel Doctor by chance?

First thing I would check the oil level and make sure it is not overfilled. An oil change would probably a be a good idea as well.

One thing you can do, is time how long it takes for it to build pressure from an empty tank. You can then calculate the pumps CFM output if you know the time it took to fill and the pressure to which it filled. This can give you a rough estimate of how efficient it is pumping compared to the manufactures stated specs.

 

[Todd.Brock]

It was Cliff Jacobs Wheel Repair in Mt Healthy. I have a little rearranging to do with the outlet. It it really bad if I put a 90 degree elbow out of the tank then into a ball valve? The way it sits in the corner there isn't room because of the hose reel.

 

[Todd.Brock]

There are 2 safety valves in the head , in between the two stages of compression and just after the 2nd stage, prior to entering the tank. The 2nd valve keeps opening. It is a 75 psi valve. The tank gets up to 50 lb of pressure and then the pop valve opens. Is that something that could be caused by a faulty check valve? It seems like the tank pressure would be closer to 75 psi if the check valve is letting air back in and causing the pop valve to activate. The valves, valve plates and all gaskets were replaced last summer. The manual says that it either an obstruction in the tube that feeds air into the tank or its a valve issue.

I guess I don't understand how it could be a reed valve issue because they are opening to let at least 75 psi to get through and trigger the safety valve. It seems like it is getting stuck. I have to pull the tube off between the tank and the pump to make there is nothing blocking, but I fail to see how something could obstruct.
I will run it with out the tube and see if it pops the safety valve. If so its downstream of the head, with the next stop being the check valve.

Has any one have any experience with this type of issue?

 

[Todd.Brock]

To those hanging on to the edge of their seats... The 75 lb valve was put in by mistake. It should have been 270 psi. 33 bucks later for the correct valve ( !!!!) and problem solved!

 

[zkling]

Dang man, that ***** you are having problems with that. I thought you bought a good working ready to go compressor? The first stage valve should be somewhere around 135psi or a bit higher. The second stage blow off valve should be somewhere around 225psi.

As for your 90° out of the tank. It is not going to be the best thing for flow. If you have to do it, try and put the largest diameter fitting that you can on there. I don't know what size bung you have on your output of the tank but some of them have stepped plugs that you can unscrew for the best flow.

Internal flow is like anything else that moves. It like the path of least resistance and any deviation from its directed path will soak up velocity (flow rate).

 

[Todd.Brock]

Update Part 3. It was low on oil when I picked it up. I filled it up but how long had it been run like that? Who knows! It was about a 1/2 quart low. I fixed the unloader valve, put a new ball valve on it and found the pressure switch bleeding off air from the tank. So it needs a new pressure switch. I am ready to sell this and start saving for a new one.

 

[Fixnair]

Is the pressure bleeding off from the bleeder valve or is the diaphragm leaking?
If the bleeder valve is leaking while the switch is open and the compressor is stopped, then your tank check valve is leaking back. You better sort this out before buying a new switch.

 

[zkling]

Update Part 3. It was low on oil when I picked it up. I filled it up but how long had it been run like that? Who knows! It was about a 1/2 quart low. I fixed the unloader valve, put a new ball valve on it and found the pressure switch bleeding off air from the tank. So it needs a new pressure switch. I am ready to sell this and start saving for a new one.

Wow, glad the guy kept a detailed "maintenance" record