New (to me) compressor needs work...could use some help

[chevroletfreak]

I picked up a massive (home garage) compressor this weekend. It is obviously an older model as the tank is dated 1975. It seems to have been put in semi-outdoor storage for an unknown length of time so I am doing some maintenance and repairs on it. The problem is I do not know exactly what I have and cannot find any specs on it so far in order to get the correct parts.

What I know:

- 83 gallon upright tank marked Model # V248 built in 1975
- Dresser 400 series dual stage pump
- Toshiba 5 hp, 4 pole Single phase, 1750 rpm, 230v, 22amp motor Model #T0054DGF2C4, 1.15 service factor

What I need:
- Fresh oil. I drained it and it looks good, but I want to change it as a precaution. What do I use?
- There are 2, 1/4" copper lines that run from the top of each head to a regulator looking thing on the front of the pump. There is no handle on the regulator looking part. What is it?
- The On/off pressure switch is broken off and is non-functional. It is marked 034-0097. Is this part number for the entire component or are other parts needed?

Oh yeah, I got it for $50. I think it is worth the refurb.

 

[jakemac]

We need details before we can hate you for the find.

 

[TwoInch]

to answer your questions.

1. use regular compressor oil. Quin-cip or IR all season select would be just fine. as would regular 30wt non detergent motor oil.

2. need pics

3. need pics

 

[chevroletfreak]

I knew better than that. I will get them tonight because I cannot get them from my phone now.

 

[zkling]

Jake pretty much summed it up.

What I need:
- Fresh oil. I drained it and it looks good, but I want to change it as a precaution. What do I use?

TwoInch answered this. I will add, don't worry about buying compress specific oil. As TwoInch said, any non detergent 30wt will be fine, preferably a good quality oil. Make sure it says "non det" or the like on the bottle.

What I need:
- There are 2, 1/4" copper lines that run from the top of each head to a regulator looking thing on the front of the pump. There is no handle on the regulator looking part. What is it?

If that is the pump I am thinking of, it should have unloaders on the cylinder heads as well as an pumped oil lubrication. What it does is allow the comp to spin easier at start, allowing it to get up to speed, then once up to speed, oil pressure is increased and closes the unloaders on the cylinder heads allowing pressure to build in the tank. Common on higher quality pumps. It reduces startup torque needed, reducing strain and amp drawer on the motor.

The stack looking thing on the cylinder head is the unloader valve and the block on the crank case that it feeds to is a pressure sensing device for the oil pressure.

- The On/off pressure switch is broken off and is non-functional. It is marked 034-0097. Is this part number for the entire component or are other parts needed?

According to google, that part # referecnes this

http://www.monstermarketplace.com/g.../034-0097-sanborn-pressure-switch-replacement

http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/onoff-pressure-switch-034-0093-034-0097-p-17037.html

Really with that large of a compressor/motor you should be running a magnetic starter setup with a pressure sensing switch. Again pics would help.

Does your setup look something like this?

http://www.normanmachinetool.com/used_product_desc.php?pid=3807&prod=AIR_COMPRESSOR__400

 

[scw1991]

1/4" lines are plumbed to a centrifugal unloader valve at the end of crankshaft. This valve opens by means of flyweights closing when crankshaft stops spinning to relieve cylinder head pressure. This enables motor to start against a no load condition.

 

[chevroletfreak]

Pictures...as you wish

 

[scw1991]

A Square D "Pumptrol" pressure switch rated with 135 psi cut-in pressure and 175 psi cut-out pressure should do the trick just fine. I also do not see a magnetic motor starter with thermal overload protection in the pics. You'll need to pick up one of these as well. I suggest purchasing a Square D type 8911 definite purpose magnetic motor starter w/ 240v coil. Starter coil get wired into the pressure switch contacts to energize/de-energize the starter coil as the pressure switch opens/closes. This in turn starts/stops the motor.

 

[jakemac]

Oooof ! That thing is a beast.

Concider suckage delivered upon successful repair.

 

[Davefr]

Make sure to get the tank hydrotested!!

 

[p0lar]

I'd also add that you may want a thermal overload protection circuit in there too. Some mag starter boxes have it built in, but an individual mag starter won't. Some motors have it built in, but it's a cheaper fix to replace an external than one built into the motor.

Shoot me a PM if you need an extra, I have at least 3-4 spare GE mag starters that are rated to 7.5HP single phase lying around that need a good home.

Looks like a good deal for $50, pending some correction!

 

[scw1991]

I'd take the approach, "if it aint broke don't fix it" with respect to the compressor itself. Make sure the unit has all safety pressure valves installed and installed correctly. There will be at least 3 of them. One on low pressure side of pump, one on high pressure side of pump, and one on the tank itself (or mounted off the pressure switch). You can get yourself killed in a heartbeat if these aren't installed.

 

[chevroletfreak]

Awesome information. I sure did not realize there was this much to a compressor. Of course I was used to an oiless C'man.

At the minimum it has spurred quite a bit of additional research by me now that I know the parts nomenclatures.

Does anyone have a reference manual or know where I can get one for the 400 series pump? I am only finding 1 safety valve and I still don't understand the plumbing flow for the unloaders and where it should vent to.

 

[scw1991]

Try contacting Ingersoll Rand. This is a Type 30 compressor if not mistaken. It appears to be very close in design to the more modern Ingersoll Rand model 2475 or model 2340 compressor. The Type 30 is the "V type design".

Download one of the manuals and it will show component breakdown, etc.
http://www.irtechpubs.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=view.main&type=Compressed Air&cat=206&sub=933

It looks like the bleed off valve is located at the bottom side of the centrifugal unloader valve assembly located at end of crankshaft.

Additional info on Pumptrol pressure switch
http://static.schneider-electric.us...ressure Switches-Water and Air/9013CT9701.pdf (recommend model 9013FHG44J59)

Additional info on definite purpose magnetic motor starter with thermal overload protection:
Square D model 8911DPSG32 starter with 208/240v coil (rated for 5HP @ 230v/1ph)

 

[bran1har]

the unloader vents nowhere, just into the garage.

 

[chevroletfreak]

update... I changed the oil, bought the square d 8911 (hd didn't have 6 Gage SO cable I was going to hook it up with), 6AWG cable to run to the compressor from the breaker, safety valve ( already had 1 on input side of second stage) a gauge, and a Hubbell 69JF8LY2C ( may be too small and wrong pressure though). After all that money, I found out the crankshaft is bent causing a lot of run out at the pulley. :-( I am not sure if I did it when I moved it or if it was already bent. It seems to only be bent outside the pump near the pulley keyway. I guess I will take it in to see what my options are.

 

[chevroletfreak]

Newest update...I bought a dial gage to check the actual runout of the crank.

It is only about .04" at the entrance to the crankcase and .09" near the tip where the pulley mounts.

It sure does not look like much to me, but the pulley has .0475" runout when installed.

Whattaya think?

 

[scw1991]

0.004"or 0.04" ? If bent 0.04", I'm guessing you would see 1/4" to 3/8" wobble at outer edge of flywheel. That would be verging on almost dangerous as reciprocating compressors develop a significant shock load on each stroke.

 

[kams1973]

Take it apart and get it straightened, or do it yourself.

 

[chevroletfreak]

Well I have pretty much given up on this one.

I got a porta puller abd wedged it between the tank and the pulley. The pressure was scary and I could see movement in the correct direction for the pulley. Unfortunately it sprung right back to the same spot even after multiple attempts.

Got the wiring temp installed on the house to test the motor and after about a minute of run time without the belts on it seemed to be fine but smoked. I went ahead and installed the belts to see how bad the pulley actually is at run speed. It was definitely noticeable but ran and pumped...however after only a short run time the motor shot a spark. I quickly shut it down but I think it's toast. I suspect the internal wiring was just too old :-(

So, I think the motor is shot and the pump crank needs straightened. You win some and you lose some :-(

sent from my Galaxy S3