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New to me Craftsman Bench Grinder need some help

sykou

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Apr 14, 2016
Messages
11
First post here. Found this forum while hunting for info on this particular grinder. This belonged to my late grandfather who passed away when I was little. It's an old craftsman bench grinder that I just got running again. He had left it with the wires cut off and covered in dust.



Craftsman 1/4 H.P Ball Bearing Split Phase Grinder. 115.19500





Shields, tool rests, grinding discs etc all there.
Bearings run smooth.

Switch was bad so I ordered and replaced it with a new one.



Now here is the problem.


Upon inspection of the motor windings, it appears one set of the windings has suffered some heat damage. This was caused upon my initial connection of the wiring which was incorrect. The motor made a buzzing sound and did not move. It was either this action it my grandpa who discovered the windings were shot and decided to cut the wires off. This remained connected for at most ten seconds at which point it started smoking a sweet smelling white smoke.
I took it apart and cleaned the centrifugal switch which I believe was stuck. Used 320 grit sandpaper and cleaned up the contact.
Spliced in new wires where needed and resoldered all connections followed with a double layer of heat shrink tubing.

After doing some research I determined the wiring to be incorrect and required the grinder as such. Hot to black wire, neutral to white wire and red wire, ground wire to grinder chassis.

It now runs fine according to my knowledge. I can hear the centrifugal switch kick after a second or so of running. The motor accelerates freely and remains at a steady rpm until I turn it off. No smoke and no excessive heat except for a slightly warm temperature around the motor area after running for a few minutes.

The motor windings look like they overheated and the smoke/smell was the enamel coating burning off of the windings. I have since resistance tested the windings and found the following. Black-white 6.5ohms. Red-white 9 ohms.

Does the damage on the motor look bad? Is it the start winding or the run winding??

Any way to test the condition of the motor? I have a simple multimeter. No specific motor testing equipment at my disposal.

Look forward to hearing back! Aloha
 
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JZiggy

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Dec 1, 2014
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Welcome to the forum and to the Block Grinder family!

That is definitely the start coil that got cooked. Its encouraging that you're getting resistance readings like 6ohms for the run coil and 9ohms for the start coil, those sound correct for a 1/4HP motor.

I have had the exact thing happen to me when I incorrectly "repaired" the start coil -- left off the return spring. After 10 seconds or so the start winding started to fry. But I caught it in time and everything still works fine.

If it runs fine then that's what matters. It should be fine for a long time. You could start shopping for a replacement stator if you're worried about it. Someone on the board gave one away not so long ago.
 

Davefr

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That start winding sure looks fried but it's only in the circuit for a few seconds until the centifical switch breaks the contact.

I'd spray those windings with this and let it completely wick in/saturate.:
https://www.grainger.com/product/32...5157!&ef_id=VkD1ewAAAXUBr3j8:20160415182529:s

You also need a different on off switch. Your grinder is 4.5 amps yet your switch is rated 3 amps. (that rating is probably even resistive vs inductive).

Get a switch with a motor amperage rating > the amperage of the grinder.

P.S. Owning tools passed down from relatives is twice as sweat as tools purchased.
 
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sykou

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Apr 14, 2016
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I actually did spray it with some of the crc version of that coating prior to reassembly.
I'm hoping it holds up.
As for the switch it's says 6amps 125vac 3 amps 250v 3amps 125v.t. Or something like that. Wrong switch?
 

Davefr

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I actually did spray it with some of the crc version of that coating prior to reassembly.
I'm hoping it holds up.
As for the switch it's says 6amps 125vac 3 amps 250v 3amps 125v.t. Or something like that. Wrong switch?

Then it should be OK. I think the 3a 125 V.T. rating is for tungsten bulbs since they have a high inrush current when cold.
 
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sykou

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Apr 14, 2016
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Then it should be OK. I think the 3a 125 V.T. rating is for tungsten bulbs since they have a high inrush current when cold.


Phew. Okay good to hear.
On another note.... Anyone have a spare stator?:D
 

WWShop

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Any plans for a further restoration or just leave it the way it is?
 
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sykou

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Apr 14, 2016
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Any plans for a further restoration or just leave it the way it is?

Only plans would be to find a replacement stator and possibly a stand for it. I'm not touching the way it looks as its kind of sentimental to me. I mean my grandpa was the last one to use it, I'd like to keep it the way he left it.
I'll clean the dust, grinding buildup off of her but I'll leave the rust and paint alone as a reminder.
 
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sykou

Member
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Apr 14, 2016
Messages
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Welcome to the forum and to the Block Grinder family!

That is definitely the start coil that got cooked. Its encouraging that you're getting resistance readings like 6ohms for the run coil and 9ohms for the start coil, those sound correct for a 1/4HP motor.

I have had the exact thing happen to me when I incorrectly "repaired" the start coil -- left off the return spring. After 10 seconds or so the start winding started to fry. But I caught it in time and everything still works fine.

If it runs fine then that's what matters. It should be fine for a long time. You could start shopping for a replacement stator if you're worried about it. Someone on the board gave one away not so long ago.

Thanks for the reference and reassurance on those resistance readings.

Oh! Almost forgot, any way to tell the year of this specific grinder? Mines has no date stamp underneath and no stamping inside as far as I can tell. ?????
 
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