New to me toolboxes

[robmiami]

Hey everyone. I got a sweet deal on a Mac roll cab with Snap on topper. I took off the stickers and wiped it down a bit last night. I'd like to keep the patina but clean it up. Should I sand down the crusty surface rust? Will sanding effect what paint is left? Also should I try to reach out to snap on and mac regarding locks or just generic replacement? Thanks!

 

[autobon7]

I would use boiled linseed oil. Try first on the bottom to see if gives you the desired results. This is kinda what you can expect.

 

[Shiftless]

I certainly would not start with sand paper. Try some rubbing compound from the auto parts store. See if you like that effect. If that is not aggressive enough, you could try wet sanding later with water and VERY fine sandpaper like maybe 1500 grit.

Is your intention to make it as close to new looking as possible? Would you like a “rat rod” appearance?

 

[FJ 432]

Disturbing the rust would result in paint removal. As I see it you have two options:

1. Clean with a diluted solution of simple green to remove the dirt and grime. Live with it as is.
2. Respray after taking it down to bare metal.

In most of my cases (and there's been a lot of cases) I go with option 1 and re-evaluate after a period of time. I try to live with the box with all of its' peccadillos. If it does not satisfy my needs after a time I either:

1. Move on and sell it.
2. Complete some/all of a restoration. Knowing that this step requires a lot of work and perseverance.

IMHO I'm not sure I could live with those boxes in their present state and would lean into restoration, mild or otherwise. It's clearly your decision and I wish you luck. I love the MAC bottom and like the Snappy.

 

[robmiami]

I would use boiled linseed oil. Try first on the bottom to see if gives you the desired results. This is kinda what you can expect.

Does it dry to touch or is there always like an oily residue?

 

[robmiami]

I certainly would not start with sand paper. Try some rubbing compound from the auto parts store. See if you like that effect. If that is not aggressive enough, you could try wet sanding later with water and VERY fine sandpaper like maybe 1500 grit.

Is your intention to make it as close to new looking as possible? Would you like a “rat rod” appearance?

I intend to keep the rat rod appearance. Just want it shiny as well. Something you aren't worried to touch or lean on. Also something that feels decently smooth.

 

[robmiami]

Disturbing the rust would result in paint removal. As I see it you have two options:

1. Clean with a diluted solution of simple green to remove the dirt and grime. Live with it as is.
2. Respray after taking it down to bare metal.

In most of my cases (and there's been a lot of cases) I go with option 1 and re-evaluate after a period of time. I try to live with the box with all of its' peccadillos. If it does not satisfy my needs after a time I either:

1. Move on and sell it.
2. Complete some/all of a restoration. Knowing that this step requires a lot of work and perseverance.

IMHO I'm not sure I could live with those boxes in their present state and would lean into restoration, mild or otherwise. It's clearly your decision and I wish you luck. I love the MAC bottom and like the Snappy.

If some paint is removed in those areas it's ok. It will get either some form of wax or penetrol in the end to keep it from getting surface rust. It will also live in the air conditioning.

 

[Shiftless]

That will look cool.
Some guys spray the whole box with matte clear coat for preservation.

Have you ever used sanding sponges? Those might work well for your process. They are good for curves and they don’t leave behind tiny bits of rust prone steel like steel wool rubbing does.

 

[robmiami]

That will look cool.
Some guys spray the whole box with matte clear coat for preservation.

Have you ever used sanding sponges? Those might work well for your process. They are good for curves and they don’t leave behind tiny bits of rust prone steel like steel wool rubbing does.

I can give them a try but I already used steel wool on it last night. Seems to have cleaned it up well and actually brought out some shine.

 

[Shiftless]

I can give them a try but I already used steel wool on it last night. Seems to have cleaned it up well and actually brought out some shine.

I think as long as you wipe it down well you won’t have any problems. I like sanding sponges for sanding exterior trim work curves prior to painting. Outside paint is of course more critical for rust than your rat rod theme tool box that is rusty already.

 

[robmiami]

I think as long as you wipe it down well you won’t have any problems. I like sanding sponges for sanding exterior trim work curves prior to painting. Outside paint is of course more critical for rust than your rat rod theme tool box that is rusty already.

I wonder how much is rust vs decades of grime vs paint being bunched up from scrapes.

 

[robmiami]

How much concern should I have about the scrubbing pads or paper towels having red paint on them? Seems pretty think of paint and it's not going down to straight metal.

 

[FJ 432]

How much concern should I have about the scrubbing pads or paper towels having red paint on them? Seems pretty think of paint and it's not going down to straight metal.

Well, you're removing paint.

 

[Shiftless]

Well, you're removing paint.

Yes
You are removing old oxidized paint and uncovering non oxidized paint from underneath. That’s why it looks shiny-er if that is a word.

 

[robmiami]

Yes
You are removing old oxidized paint and uncovering non oxidized paint from underneath. That’s why it looks shiny-er if that is a word.

Shinier...had to google it lol. I guess maybe it looks like more than it is because it's not like I'm stripping it straight to metal.

 

[Model A Fan]

The rat rod appearance would be cool to see. Please post pics when you're done!

 

[robmiami]

Coming along. Going to start cleaning up the bottom now then see the best way to preserve it. Anybody tried car wax before?

 

[robmiami]

Btw this is what it's looked like when I first got it.

 

[Shiftless]

After cleaning and polishing the cast iron top of the 50’s era Craftsman table saw I inherited from my FIL, I protected it with carnuba paste wax. Reapplied once in a while. I used the same stuff on the column of my Craftsman drill press from the same era. Years later it is still rust free.

 

[robmiami]

I did a pass on the bottom. Looks like I'll need another though. Maybe some more sos pads. At least now it's clean.

 

[autobon7]

I did a pass on the bottom. Looks like I'll need another though. Maybe some more sos pads. At least now it's clean.

The boiled linseed oil will be slightly gummy (when cured) if put on too thick. But it will provide a nice shine and bring out a deeper red. If you are concerned about that Id try a mild scotch brite pad and some CLR.

 

[robmiami]

I've been using CLR on a scotch brite actually, along with the sos pads. Might need to let the CLR sit for a little while on the bottom.

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

Poppy's Patina - The Original Patina Clear Coat.

Located in Tulsa OK, Poppy's Patina is widely know as the Original Wipe-On Clear Coat for classic cars and trucks. Restore paint or preserve patina. Poppy's Patina is not just a "sauce" that wipes off. It seals your patina in UV protected coat. Find products to preserve your patina/paint in...

poppyspatina.com

That's all the rage in the rat rod scene for preserving patina. It's a wipe on product that will last a very very long time. Idk the differences between that and regular 2k clear you can buy in an aerosol can at your local automotive paint supply house for a fraction of the cost, but there might be something.