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New toy...Sync 250.

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shawnspeed

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
326
Got one like that , maybe a few years older, mine has a home made cooler, and the metal pedal....been a great welder for the last 20+years...Shawn
 

zkling

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
NICE. :thumbup: Mind I ask what the entire setup set you back?

Couple things....

Power change is on the back right, lower corner if facing machine, just have to move the jumper. Take off top cover then right panel. While you have it open to change the jumper, blow the entire machine out and check everything over.

Check and adjust the HF gaps if necessary, front under flip up pannel.

I'm not sure what vintage your Watermate cooler is, but be careful, the older ones had a orberdorfer gear pump that was prone to failuer if non proper coolant was used. They are also very $$ to rebuild and are better to be replaced by a special Procon unit. BTDTNA.

Looks like a more modern foot pedal. The older metals ones are just a classic. :lol_hitti

Post up the two first letters of the serial number and I can track the year made. I have a 91 IIRC. Enjoy that machine, it is probably the last tig machine you will ever need. :thumbup:
 

shawnspeed

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
326
it is probably the last tig machine you will ever need.

X2....I keep looking at inverters, but cannot justify the expense...I did horse trade for an XMT304, and it has tig capability, but it is currently set up wit a 60 series wire feeder, and what a machine it is...I have also stick welded with it , and it is every bit as good as my syncro, so I imagine, the 304 will Tig just as good...just no AC for aluminum...if I was gonna have just one, it would be the Syncro 250....Happy welding...Shawn
 

ezzzzzzz

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Messages
359
Just open the right side of the welder (top comes off then side panel). You'll find the jumpers for converting from 480 to 220. It's merely a couple of brass wafers that need to be moved. The instructions are there on a sticker. The whole wiring diagram is on a side panel.
 
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kf4zht

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
712
Location
Calhoun, GA
I've been looking for a Tig rig for a while and the syncrowave 250 is right about the best in class. Found a guy 200 miles away with 2 for 250 each, he said HF didn't work. I couldn't get them that day, by the time I could he had already sold them.

Still on the hunt. I have argon and a torch, so I am good even if I find one bare.

What size breakers are yall running with these? I have about 50 amps I can get right away, with a little work I could get to 65-70 without much. How thick steel and AL will that do? (220v)
 
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kazlx

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
2,851
Location
Tustin, CA
NICE. :thumbup: Mind I ask what the entire setup set you back?

Couple things....

Power change is on the back right, lower corner if facing machine, just have to move the jumper. Take off top cover then right panel. While you have it open to change the jumper, blow the entire machine out and check everything over.

Check and adjust the HF gaps if necessary, front under flip up pannel.

I'm not sure what vintage your Watermate cooler is, but be careful, the older ones had a orberdorfer gear pump that was prone to failuer if non proper coolant was used. They are also very $$ to rebuild and are better to be replaced by a special Procon unit. BTDTNA.

Looks like a more modern foot pedal. The older metals ones are just a classic. :lol_hitti

Post up the two first letters of the serial number and I can track the year made. I have a 91 IIRC. Enjoy that machine, it is probably the last tig machine you will ever need. :thumbup:

Totally missed coming back to this thread for some reason...wasn't getting the notifications. I paid $1400 for it. I got it wired up the other day. It was pretty simple, just pulled the panel off the side, changed the jumpers around to the correct spots as marked and put another plug on it. Fired right up and works fine. I think it's a Coolmate 1A? I'd have to look again. Turns on and seems to cycle. It's wired to the power on the Sync so the main power switch turns everything on.

Good to know about the pump, I'll keep an eye on it. I'll have to get the serial number. Everything in there looked pretty clean when I had the cover off.

I need to find a new torch to get. The one that it has works, but is a little too well loved and could be replaced. It also doesn't have a sheath over the leads, which just bugs me. I'll probably find a whole kit, probably a CK or something.
 
Last edited:
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kazlx

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
2,851
Location
Tustin, CA
I've been looking for a Tig rig for a while and the syncrowave 250 is right about the best in class. Found a guy 200 miles away with 2 for 250 each, he said HF didn't work. I couldn't get them that day, by the time I could he had already sold them.

Still on the hunt. I have argon and a torch, so I am good even if I find one bare.

What size breakers are yall running with these? I have about 50 amps I can get right away, with a little work I could get to 65-70 without much. How thick steel and AL will that do? (220v)

I actually had this same model machine before, sold it to buy an inverter, then had to use the money for something else. I ran it for a while on a 50A circuit, the same as I have now. It's a 300A machine, but I think it takes close to 100A at full juice. I had no problem doing 1/8" aluminum on my 50A circuit and could have probably gone thicker.
 

BigMike782

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
Messages
1,867
Location
49120
My cooler is like that and it is a "water cooler 1A"(I think).
I just found a Coolmate 3 and when time permits I will re-fit it in place of the Oberdorfer style.

Dam good machines,rugged and reliable as an old dog.
 
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