Just finished installing an Advantage 2 post lift.When I went to power up the motor it wont do anything. 240 going in 240 going to motor when i push the contactor.Lift company said it was the capacitors,I tested the capacitors and they were in spec.Ran 12 gauge 3 wire two hots and a ground.Motor is totally silent...thanks for any help.My cousin is a union electrician and we are stumped.
New two post lift motor not working at all
- Thread starter Macintosh
- Start date
new lift, or used?
if you have proper voltage at the motor, there's only one thing it can be, the motor . bad caps, bad winding . a bad starter would get a hum I would suspect .
Your Union electrician has no motor experience obviously
if you have proper voltage at the motor, there's only one thing it can be, the motor . bad caps, bad winding . a bad starter would get a hum I would suspect .
Your Union electrician has no motor experience obviously
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
How did you test for 240v at the motor?
Can you post pics of the contactor and motor wiring
Can you post pics of the contactor and motor wiring
BillK
Well-known member
Are you sure there isn't another safety switch somewhere that might be stuck ? Other than that it almost has to be the motor.
MBfreak
MEMBER EMERITUS
Apply 220 V directly fused at 6 A to the motor leads for 1 second.
If it runs, circuits feeding are faulty
If it does not ru or hum, motor is faulty.
WORK SAFELY.
Ola
If it runs, circuits feeding are faulty
If it does not ru or hum, motor is faulty.
WORK SAFELY.
Ola
finn
Well-known member
Are you sure the motor is wired correctly?
I have two Advantage four post lifts. the larger, 11k lift came with a power pack wired for 240 v.
The smaller, 8k lift came pre wired for 120v, but Advantage offers 240v for an upcharge. Strangely, although the powerpack was wired for 120, the box said 120/240, so I presume they simply rewire the motor for the higher voltage. If so, my money is on there being a loose wire, or misplaced wire from the rework.
Mine both work flawlessly, and the power packs look to be of higher quality than my BendPac, which is a few years older.
I never did rewire the smaller lift to 240. It’s fast enough in the 120v configuration for my purposes.
I have two Advantage four post lifts. the larger, 11k lift came with a power pack wired for 240 v.
The smaller, 8k lift came pre wired for 120v, but Advantage offers 240v for an upcharge. Strangely, although the powerpack was wired for 120, the box said 120/240, so I presume they simply rewire the motor for the higher voltage. If so, my money is on there being a loose wire, or misplaced wire from the rework.
Mine both work flawlessly, and the power packs look to be of higher quality than my BendPac, which is a few years older.
I never did rewire the smaller lift to 240. It’s fast enough in the 120v configuration for my purposes.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
pics are too blurry. hard to see in detail
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
testing from line to ground doesnt tell us anything. you need to test line to line
also testing on the line side of the contactor doesnt tell us anything other than you have power at the line side of the contactor. you need to test on the output side of the contactor. should be T2 and T3
justsam
Well-known member
When you say on each wire to the motor, just at what two points are you measuring? Please confirm that you are seeing 240VAC across the black and white wires coming from your panel, this would be L2 and L3 on the contactor, and T2 and T3 with contactor activated.
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BillK
Well-known member
You need to put one test lead on the black wire and the other test lead on the white wire. Then see what your meter reads.
tncatadjuster
Well-known member
Any chance you are using the same leg for each wire?
BillK
Well-known member
Thats what I was wondering but I guess we need to see a picture of the breaker.
I was going to post the same as the poster above did, have you got your double breaker on separate bars in the panel?
If the OP used a twin/tandem breaker & it not a GE there is no way to get 240V, seeing the picture it's a Siemens panel & need a Quad breaker, use a Siemens ONLY, BR breakers are not UL classified for use in competitive panels & so there are two reasons to get rid of the BR/Zinsco II breakers
BillK
Well-known member
So there is your answer. Need to call your union electrician back. That breaker is giving you two separate 120 circuits. That IS NOT the same as a single 240. Only other choice would be to use one side of the breaker and wire the lift for 120 v. if that is an option.
BillK
Well-known member
Are there any other open slots in the panel ?? Post a pic of the entire panel.
AffableCurmudgeon
Well-known member
BillK
Well-known member
I might be wrong but I dont think you can get a breaker that will fit in that single spot and give you 240.
BillK
Well-known member
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
again, measuring line to ground (which is how u get 123v) tells us the wrong info because you could be connected to the same ungrounded conductor in the panel. this means that there isnt 240v potential and thus the motor wont run.
you need to be measuring line to line at the motor. if youre not getting 240v then that is your issue.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
thats your issue. that is a tandem breaker with only 1 stab. it will only give you 120v on both legs. you need a double pole breaker
had you followed my direction in post #11 you wouldve figured this out all ready
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
he is dead wrong. that is a tandem breaker. it will NOT give you 240v. you sure he is an electrician? this is basic stuff
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
can u post a pic of the panel label. you have several different brands of breakers in that panel.
Hmmm.
What's the 100A on the left and 40A on the right feeding?
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
What brand of panel do you have?
You have at least 3 different brands of breakers which isnt kosher
You have at least 3 different brands of breakers which isnt kosher