New!! WAGO wall nuts

[Nealcrenshaw]

Just heard about these connectors to ensure a solid grip when connecting wires instead of using wire nuts.Anyone use them?

http://www.wall-nuts.us/home773.cfm

 

[buening]

I saw those on my 8' fluorescent strip lights from Lowes! I had never seen them before, but they seem to work good. The black and *********** feed had a similar connector, and it was a push lock system (similar to the back of an wall outlet or switch)

 

[Brickout]

I've used those, they're very handy Especially when you're connecting 4+ wires or don't have much slack in the wire.

 

[Dragster Racer]

I will keep my eyes open for those. Look handy.

 

[Minitucking]

when i installed the rough in cans for my can lighting in the house these conncetors came with the cans. Sure make things a lot easier and quicker!

 

[tfi racing]

Ideal also markets a similiar connector.My house is full of them,I don't know if I would use them personally.I guess they are good for either the lazy or unskilled that can't twist wires together properly and definately would help out those with carpal tunnel or other injuries.I never trust or use the same type of system on the backs of receptacles,maybe my bias stems from that...

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If it isn't twisted, pinched, crimped or squeezed tight, it probably will not last in the long run. I would not use these except in places where other more common methods are difficult or impossible to use.

Charles

 

[ddawg16]

These are real common in Europe.
Downside is that you depend on the connection between sections....

While they are easy to use and convient, the good ole wire nut is still one of the best connections....what makes it good is that you are twisting the two or three wires around each other which increases the contact area making for a better connection.

 

[Nealcrenshaw]

The wire nut always comes apart on me.

 

[nissan_crawler]

is this just like the push-in **** on the back of outlets? If so...count me out.

 

[Torque1st]

I have never used the Wago wall nuts themselves but they have been around for some time. I will check my catalog listings. I never liked the push in **** they had on the back of outlets and the Wago system is far different.

I have used Wago "caged spring" connectors for industrial use for 20 years. From the UL listing at the website they seem to use the same "caged spring" termination method. They are far superior to normal screw clamp terminal strips, both for wire retention and circuit continuity and resistance over time in horrible environments.

Wire nuts will continue to be my choice for the time being mainly because I have many boxes of them. I would not be afraid of using these Wago units tho.

These may be great for those people out there that can't use a wire nut to save their souls... You guys know who they are and you have seen their misbegotten leavings.

 

[Matt M PA]

I got some of these for my new garage....I think they look great. I was planning on using them for the ground wires to save box space.

 

[phorsfi]

Wouldn't use these if they were the only think my suppliers sold. I've seen far too many of these units fail to make a decent connection already.

Push in connectors are for homeowners with no knowledge of electricity or inept/lazy people who cant/wont learn how to properly splice wiring. The wire nut is one of the only reliable (common) connections used in residential wiring.

 

[Aceman]

The wire nut always comes apart on me.

Did you read the instructions?

For the record, Wagos have their place. When changing ballasts in flourescent fixtures, I use Wagos exclusively. If a wire coming into a box was too short to get a wirenut on, I'd probably use a Wago, but that's it. Nowhere else.

 

[MisterCMK]

The wire nut always comes apart on me.

If a connection made with a wire nut is coming apart on you, the connection was not done right. Done properly, a wire nut will not fall off or come apart.

 

[Patz]

WAGO wall nuts have been the "standard" for professional electricians here in Norway for quite some time now (probably a couple of years), so they do absolutely work well, a real time saver.

They do make a very safe connection, far superior to the old WAGO Cage-Clamps that were damn right dangerous for what i've heard.
Only downside is that the wire can't really be removed again once it's connected.

 

[Torque1st]

Some will say a person does not have to go to all of the trouble listed in the instructions below but after years of experience and seeing the results when other methods were used I do the following:

To use a wire nut:
--------------------------------------
-Strip the wires 1.5-2x longer than the strip specification on the box.
-Arrange all the wires in your off-hand so they are parallel and the insulated portion of the wires line up, grip tightly.
-With a pair of Lineman pliers (not regular pliers) grab the ends of the wires and twist clockwise looking at the ends of the wire.
-Tightly twist the wires until the insulated portion is twisted 1-2 turns.
-Trim the bare twisted wire to the strip length listed on the container.
-In basements, attics, or damp areas squeeze in silicone dielectric compound to fill about half the wire nut.
-Screw on the wirenut tightly.
-Wipe off excess dielectric if used. In damp areas wrap the joint with electrical tape.
-Tuck and fold the wires into the box neatly.

A person can skip the silicone and come back to green wires in a few years and a hot connection.

A person can skip the pre-twist and come back to a black melted wirenut and a hot connection later as well as intermittent troubles and wires pulled loose.

Your choice, but I prefer to avoid fires and trouble later.

I always use silicone in basements even if the space is heated and air conditioned. I would use silicone in the same places with the Wago connectors also. I have used many types of Wago connectors and terminals since 1983.

WAGO wall nuts have been the "standard" for professional electricians here in Norway for quite some time now (probably a couple of years), so they do absolutely work well, a real time saver.

They do make a very safe connection, far superior to the old WAGO Cage-Clamps that were damn right dangerous for what i've heard.
Only downside is that the wire can't really be removed again once it's connected.

Ahhhh, you "heard" wrong. These ARE the Wago cage clamps which work well, they just do not have the release mechanism. They are series 773 connectors and use the same cage clamp mechanism.

 

[Patz]

Ahhhh, you "heard" wrong. These ARE the Wago cage clamps which work well, they just do not have the release mechanism. They are series 773 connectors and use the same cage clamp mechanism.

OK, i'm sure you're right Torque1st
Could it be the Wago 273-series that doesn't work to well?
http://www.tge-online.de/tgeshop/images/wago/wag_273_112.jpg

 

[Torque1st]

OK, i'm sure you're right Torque1st
Could it be the Wago 273-series that doesn't work to well?
http://www.tge-online.de/tgeshop/images/wago/wag_273_112.jpg

The Wago 773 series IS the Wall Nut... Check their new catalogs.

The older 273 series would release if crammed into a box that was too full. Otherwise they worked well. -Operator error...

 

[Nealcrenshaw]

I'll give 'em try then form my opinion,i'm done with the wire nuts
instructions or not.

 

[Torque1st]

Neal- They should work fine for you.

 

[MisterCMK]

Torque, are you the same guy on FTE that I am thinking of? I seem to remember having a rather in depth discussion on wirenuts with you at one point.

 

[Mr_fixit]

If it isn't twisted, pinched, crimped or squeezed tight, it probably will not last in the long run. I would not use these except in places where other more common methods are difficult or impossible to use.

Charles

I agree, anything that relies on a spring loaded type of connector like on the back of a receptacle or switch WILL eventually have problems.

I like to do things once. Wire nuts for me.

 

[Torque1st]

Wire nuts use a coiled spring.

 

[dwilliams35]

Not all of them: the cheaper wirenuts just have a threaded interior: no bueno. If a wirenut fails mechanically, chances are it's just the threaded ones.

 

[Aceman]

Not all of them: the cheaper wirenuts just have a threaded interior: no bueno. If a wirenut fails mechanically, chances are it's just the threaded ones.

Wirenuts are one thing you definitely don't want to go cheap on. I didn't even know they made wire nuts without a spring, it's sad really. The only wire nuts our shop uses are Ideal:tan twisters, reds, and the big blues. If you can't make a solid connection with these wire nuts you're doing it wrong.

 

[sberry]

I avoid the Scotch like the plague, its either Ideal or Wingnut, usually Ideal. The Scotch have a poor taper to the spring insert. I never pre twist but my hands are strong, can turn a wire nut tight no problem.

 

[MisterCMK]

Have you taken that wire nut off after making the connection to see how well the connection is? When you get 4 or more conductors under a wirenut it should be pre-twisted and nipped off with a set of lineman pliers IMO.

 

[sberry]

As I recall the instructions say not to pre twist but they are twisted when I am done.

 

[Torque1st]

I have seen a few wire nuts without the coiled insert, some were plastic, others ceramic. The ceramic ones I save for future high temp applications although I have never used them. The plastic ones I toss. The ceramic ones usually are very small and are made for stranded fixture wires in a luminaire. The all-plastic ones usually come with imported luminaries.

I pre-twist connections unless I am in a real hurry and it is only two same size solid wires or a single stranded wire application. Pre-twisting will yield a good connection every time.

Securing a fine stranded wire with a solid wire is another trick. The stranded wire tends to just wrap around and slide down the solid wire. To make a solid connection I have found that stripping the stranded wire about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 times the indicated strip length then folding over the excess length before twisting on the wire nut works well. The ends of the folded over portion of the stranded conductor grip the coiled spring and pulls the stranded wire into the connector.

Connecting multiple fine stranded wires together requires a double pre-twist and extra length. Pre-twist every individual conductor, then pre- twist the entire bundle. Trim the bundle to length. Sometimes I even grab a few individual strands and fold the ends down just to get more grip with the wire nut.

For heavier stranded wire I just strip 1.5X length then twist and trim to length then screw on the wire nut like normal.

 

[Torque1st]

I avoid the Scotch like the plague, its either Ideal or Wingnut, usually Ideal. The Scotch have a poor taper to the spring insert. I never pre twist but my hands are strong, can turn a wire nut tight no problem.

I have often wondered what seemed wrong with the Scotchlocks. Now I know! Thanks, I will avoid them in the future.

 

[nadogail]

I use Wago connecters, particularly for repair and remodel applications.

They are approved by people smarter than I.