New window and window unit sealing

[shakenfake]

Currently my big project is insulating the shop and cutting down on the heat coming in/air going out. Where I live it can easily get over 100 the entire summer. The AC unit absolutely helps but there are still a lot of things that are not great. I just added some Gila window tint over the garage door windows and that has easily cut down a couple degrees. The next thing I am looking at is doing my window.

The shop has a good size window (can't remember dimensions I will have to check tonight) that I am thinking needs replacement. It is probably from the 60s or 70s. I also would like to seal in my AC unit a bit more since it is not sealed up very well. Any recommendations on window brands, window material, glass type? I will be installing myself to cut costs although I have never installed a window. Afterwards I will install the same window tint film on it to help with the sun.

For the AC unit my plan is to purchase a sheet of plywood and cut a hole in it just large enough for the unit to sit in and perhaps mount the plywood to the window sill. I was also planning on using some rope caulk to seal off any escaping air.

Crude drawing of my plan. Inner box is AC unit, outer box is plywood sheet, squiggle lines are rope caulk. I may also put some between the unit and the plywood but I am not sure.

Questions, comments, concerns?

 

[shakenfake]

I am also thinking about purchasing some cans of spray foam insulator and spraying it on the inside of the plywood.

 

[Bert_]

Vinyl is the cheapest lowest grade window. Good windows are very expensive.

I am not sure why the plywood is being used. The ac is made to go right in the window. I would recommend removing the accordion filler pieces and cutting a piece of foam insulation to fill the gap on the sides of the window

 

[shakenfake]

The plywood would be to fill the rest of the gap in the window. I figured that it would provide coverage on the rest of the window that the accordion pieces would fill.

The only question I have with foam insulation is would it survive the outside weather? The point of the plywood was to have a rigid surface that could perhaps more accurately fill the hole. I would probably put some insulation on the inside of the window.

Why do you consider vinyl to be a low grade window? It should have the best energy efficiency as it does not have the heat retaining properties of an aluminum window no? Most of what I am reading online mentions vinyl being better at energy efficiency.

 

[Bert_]

I have a window ac that I put in my house every summer. I've been using the same piece of foil faced foam insulation for 4 years and it's holding up well.

Vinyl is cheap to buy, that's the only positive thing I can say about them. They don't seal that well and have a short lifespan.

 

[Sumboodie]

I have a window ac that I put in my house every summer. I've been using the same piece of foil faced foam insulation for 4 years and it's holding up well.

Vinyl is cheap to buy, that's the only positive thing I can say about them. They don't seal that well and have a short lifespan.

2 or 3 pane vinyl windows are pretty much the standard window these days.

They hold up fine here, where it's below zero much of the winter.. currently 3*

It'd be ridiculous to spend big bucks in some super high end custom window for a garage.

Most windows have UV shielding now too. I found that out trying to grow cucumbers in my bay window.

 

[shakenfake]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Johns-Manville-Common-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-AP-Foil-1-R-2-7-Faced-Polyisocyanurate-Foam-Board-Insulation/3851113

Something like this perhaps?

The window price difference between Lowe's and HD is pretty large although I don't see where on HD page you can select Energy Star rated...

 

[strutaeng]

You need to install some R38 fiberglass insulation between your ceiling joists for most "bang for your buck" gain. If anything, a ceiling of the foam sheets nailed to the bottom of the ceiling joists will do for cutting down on heat gain installed in full sheets like drywall.)

The addition that I mentioned on the other thread measured 22' wide x 67' long x 2 stories high, but 2/3 of the length is basically a double volume space (17' ish ceiling.) Insulation was R19 walls plus R5 continuous exterior rigid insulation. I started insulation the walls and the window AC didn't seem to cool much. UNTIL 100% of the ceiling insulation, it was able to cool to around 75 degrees while it was hitting 102-104F outside.

Ideally, ALL ceilings AND walls are well insulated. Even a small "hole" of the thermal envelope not being insulated has a huge impact on thermal heat gains or loses. i.e. windows. But most of your walls are solid.


Don't get hung up on window thermal efficiency. Double insulated glass is a mere R5, LOL.

I subscribed to Fine Building magazine and it's kinda comical how they present stuff: they have a bunch of articles on high energy efficiency, insulation, double walls, net zero, carbon footprint, etc. And then the article of the featured cool house has nothing but glass walls! WTF!

 

[shakenfake]

@strutaeng The whole building is brick and does have insulation in the walls (albeit insulation from the 80s most likely but insulation none the less) I figure I would start with some of the smaller things such as windows and doors especially because the window unit is only surrounded by the accordion paper lol

I was looking at some of that DIY spray foam for my roof and ripping out all the old failing insulation but I was not sure what brand was best so I put it on hold for now.

Edit: Also damn I didn't think that addition was that big lol

 

[strutaeng]

@strutaeng The whole building is brick and does have insulation in the walls (albeit insulation from the 80s most likely but insulation none the less) I figure I would start with some of the smaller things such as windows and doors especially because the window unit is only surrounded by the accordion paper lol

I was looking at some of that DIY spray foam for my roof and ripping out all the old failing insulation but I was not sure what brand was best so I put it on hold for now.

Edit: Also damn I didn't think that addition was that big lol

Next time I go to Summit Racing to buy stuff I'll buzz you. Maybe I can stop by and check out your shop for my opinion.

 

[shakenfake]

@strutaeng Likewise

I keep seeing stuff in Dallas I want to go buy but I keep getting side tracked with my other projects

 

[loganb]

So in Texas as you've probably noticed...the default window choice is either vinyl(generally white but can be other colors) or some cheap aluminum product as the primary building code concern in terms of thermal performance is Solar Heat Gain Coefficient(SHGC) and is controlled by the type of glass you put in. In the residential world, most all the companies have very similar glazing options and for Texas you generally need a SHGC of less than or equal to .25 and a U value that varies but is normally between .30 and .45 depending on what version of code the project is subject to.

What this means is most any window can work in a climate like Texas where it doesn't get that cold. I'm not going to recommend any brands as I work for a major window manufacturer and deal with Texas codes a lot....but couple things to look at:

• What is the warranty/how long have they been in business-Warranties aren't worth much when the company that issued it's out of business, so review what their history is if you intend to be there for any length of time
• Glass Type-Double pane is standard, it's a waste of money to do triple pane for a shop in your climate. The Low-E type or coating will be a low solar gain type to meet the SHGC requirements, each company will call it something different but many will be buying the glass from Cardinal Corporation and their coating name for what you want(or the competitive equivalant) is LowE 366. Most of the marketing names will likely have some form of "Sun" and "Guard/Shield/Protector/Defender/Shield" etc in it as that's what it's doing...protecting from the sun
• Installation-What's the exterior of the structure look like? Replacing a window when you can use a nailing flange/nail fin is pretty straight forward but when exterior conditions don't allow that it can be slightly more time consuming to do it right. Replacement windows often get what's called a "block" frame which still isn't extremely difficult to install...but just takes a bit more time and attention to detail(especially when measuring to ordeR)