New wiring questions

[GS-Louie]

My new garage is getting close to electrical time. Because of the vaulted ceiling I am trying to to avoid over head wiring as much as possible. At the last minute I did manage to get a few 3/4" conduits placed in the floor to strategic areas.

My plan is to pull THHN wires to a junction/outlet box and then through the walls from there with 12-2 non-metallic cable to the rest of the outlets.

The questions I have are:

1. How many wires can I put in the 3/4" plastic conduit?

2. How many outlets can go on a 20 amp breaker?

3. Does the bathroom light and switch need to be on a GFCI circuit?

4. Does anyone have any experience with a small electrical point of use instant hot water heater?

5. The walls will be 2X6. If I run the wire in the middle of the stud do I need nailing protection?

Any help and tips would be appreciated. Thanks for helping.

Lou

 

[aandpdan]

1. Schedule 40 or 80? For schedule 40 it is 15, for schedule 80 it is 12 - that's #12 THHN conductors and 2011 code.
2. No limit in the US
3. So long as it is just the light, no GFCI. Receptacles would need to be GFCI.
4. I've used a 4 gallon one.
5. Not a problem.

 

[Beemer533]

There may not be a limit for outlets, but I would break them up a bit. In my garage (24x24) I did a 20A breaker for each wall, which in my case was 6 outlets per breaker. A bit more wiring perhaps, but I'd rather be a bit overkill.

It is also convenient if I have to do any electrical I only have to shut down the wall I'm working on and still have outlets for work lights, battery chargers, etc.

I also did the outlets for my door openers on a separate breaker.

 

[Aceman]

1. How many wires can I put in the 3/4" plastic conduit?

9 plus a ground before derating becomes an issue. I'd shoot for no more than 6-7 though.

2. How many outlets can go on a 20 amp breaker?

13 or less, it's really not practical to put a bunch on one circuit in a garage. Use more circuits with fewer receps so you lessen the chances you overload the circuit.

3. Does the bathroom light and switch need to be on a GFCI circuit?

No, just the recep.

4. Does anyone have any experience with a small electrical point of use instant hot water heater?

If you don't know what you're buying, I'd run a 10-2 NM to the area it will be in. Chances are it will draw less than 20 amps and you would only need 12-2, but you're covered this way.

5. The walls will be 2X6. If I run the wire in the middle of the stud do I need nailing protection?

You only need nail plates if the hole, not the cable, is less than 1.25" from the edge of the stud. You shouldn't have that issue with 2x6's.

 

[C96]

Hi Lou,
Sounds like a nice build, just remember all 120V receptacles in the garage and restroom must be GFCI

Good Luck

 

[GS-Louie]

Thanks for all the quick responses. I like the idea of one breaker per for the outlets, I am also glad I asked about the wire limits in the conduit.I was thinking 6 wires would be the max, nice to know I can pull in more if needed. I plan to put all the outlets on GFCI breakers.

I plan one circuit for the 2 garage door openers and the 3 outside lights, 3 20A breakers for outlets, 2 or 4 breakers for indoor lighting and one 20A breaker for the bench outlets and lights and one breaker for the lift. Once I get the specs for t he mini-split I will wire that in too.

Again, thanks for the answers, ideas and tips.

Lou

It's Memorial Day - Thank a Vet and plant a flag.

 

[Mustang51js]

How many lights you plan on using where you need 4 circuits for lights.

 

[GS-Louie]

How many lights you plan on using where you need 4 circuits for lights.

I will have 2 rooms in the garage, 2 circuits per room. each powering half the lights in that room. Total unknown at this time.

Lou

 

[theoldwizard1]

How many lights you plan on using where you need 4 circuits for lights.

I will have 2 rooms in the garage, 2 circuits per room. each powering half the lights in that room. Total unknown at this time.

Lou

If you are installing light switches it may be cheaper/easier to run a hot to the switch box and then to the fixtures. Of course, some people "switch" their lights with the breaker at the panel.

 

[Norcal]

If you are installing light switches it may be cheaper/easier to run a hot to the switch box and then to the fixtures. Of course, some people "switch" their lights with the breaker at the panel.

Which is OK if SWD rated breakers are used.

 

[justsam]

4. Does anyone have any experience with a small electrical point of use instant hot water heater?
Any help and tips would be appreciated. Thanks for helping.

Lou

Which type of Point of Use are you considering, with or without tank? I have one of each and I am a big fan of the tank type. My 4 gallon works for me.

I also have a tankless type in my master bath. Know the limitations/specs of these before deciding if it will meet your needs. My unit is a EEMax SP3012.

See http://www.supplyhouse.com/Eemax-SP3012-SP3012-Single-Point-Electric-Tankless-Water-Heater-12160000-p

If you review the specs you will see that it raises the water temp by 40 degrees, if you restrict to 0.5 GPM. Depending on your incoming water temp and your desired rate of flow this may not get it for you. Higher flow rates decrease the temp raise. As has already been pointed out, best to make this a 30Amp dedicated circuit.

The small 4 gallon tank type works great for me, it is an Ariston GL-4. Down side is if you need more than 4 gallons, you have a long recovery.

In regard to GFI breakers, I am a big fan. Before changing from the outlet style GFI I had some nuisance trips really due to poor location of outlet on outside garage wall. The other GFI wound up being behind a large file cabinet, and difficult to reset if needed. Nice to have all located at the panel and of course GFI protection now begins at the panel as opposed to the first outlet.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Which is OK if SWD rated breakers are used.

Learn something new every day !

 

[GS-Louie]

I will only be using the water heater to supply a sink to use for personal cleaning. I probably won't need much. I was hoping to not have a tank type since I don't expect to be using it very often. Thanks for the tips on checking the heat rise specs. I will be in the store tomorrow so I shall look around to see what is available.

Thanks for the help.

Lou

 

[justsam]

I will only be using the water heater to supply a sink to use for personal cleaning. I probably won't need much. I was hoping to not have a tank type since I don't expect to be using it very often. Thanks for the tips on checking the heat rise specs. I will be in the store tomorrow so I shall look around to see what is available.

Thanks for the help.

Lou

My need is similar, hot water to wash up, and an occasional bucket full to mop epoxy floor.

I think you will find that the tankless point of use will give you WARM, not HOT water unless you slow the flow rate to a trickle.

I have not monitored power usage for my 4 gallon tank type, but does not seem crazy. It is well insulated and I guess you could add more, but it increases under sink bulk. You could also put it on a timer if your schedule is predictable.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

i have a two gallon Titan under sink water heater. Its OK, I wished I had a 4 gal or an instant unit, as I like to fill buckets with hot wash water to use on the car and when doing shop rags, etc. 4 gal units were not to be found when I bought mine a number of years ago. I've been looking at incoming temps, flow rates, temp rise charts and such and have determined I need a 11K to 13K instant unit (#6 wire and a 60 amp circuit) to do what I want. Well water is about 45° to 50° incoming in winter, a little better in the summer as it comes from down the street about 1500 ft away (HOA owned well). Looking for about a 50°F temp rise at about 1.75 to 2 gpm. Rheem instant units are good price, but scary bad reviews, I've been looking at Bosch. I would just have to run another piece of EMT and pull wires. 40 space breaker panel is just about not enough.!!!!

Charles