New with some questions

[MustHang]

Hi,

this is my first post but I have been lurking and drooling a lot recently on this site and I want to buy a new house which has already a garage but the interior is unfinished. I have a couple questions for the garage junkies.

The framing has been done in 2x4 unfortunately. What are my options as far as insulation goes for good/maximum effiency ?

The garage has 10' ceiling and standard trusses. Would it be possible to modify the trusses without removing them to make them like cathedral trusses. Well not all of them but maybe enough to clear the top of my car for an eventual lift.

Since I plan on working a lot in the garage. I guess there's not much flooring available but what could I do to protect the concrete ?

Thanks to all.

 

[Yotaforce]

There's nothing wrong with the 2x4 construction, it's probably the most common of all. Insulating is fairly simple as well. Buy rolls of insulation in the width you need (assuming 16" spacing), staple it in as directed, then sheet the walls in either sheetrock, or paneling of your choice. There are ways to alter the trusses to suit your needs, however, that is one thing I cannot help with. Good luck.

 

[JMURiz]

I would not touch the trusses (they are engineered correct?). Perhaps if you contacted a structural engineer or architect they could put your mind at ease about doing such a thing though.

I plan on using a concrete sealer on my floor, something like the H&C Clear 23. I like the industrial look and it'll keep the floor from dusting and don't have to worry about it looking like **** if welded on or scratched.

Typical bats for a 2x4 16"OC wall are R13....but I'm looking at the high-efficiency R15 kraft-face insulation. Have any others used this, and will the extra 2 in r-value really make a difference? My space will probably have a mini-split heat-pump (a/c and heat).

 

[flesburg]

I would not modify the trusses either. If you talk to a lift company like Rotary, they have two post lifts that have "low ceiling" options, which will work with 10' ceilings. And, depending upon your car(s) will give you up to 5 or even 5 1/2 ' clear under the car when it is all the way up. A lot better than with a little scissors lift for changing wheels and tires or oil changes. Bigger problem will be the floor space they require. Try to get a garage that is minimum of 24' wide, or the lift will take up more than 50% of your garage width.

My "working bay" with my lift is 20' wide with the lift centered in it, so I have 4 1/2 feet on the outside of each post. So, it your wife will let you, center your lift in the up to 24' wide garage and call it a one car garage.

 

[MustHang]

I was kind of against of modifying the trusses too. Was just asking if it was a common practice but will let them like they are. The garage is(would be) all mine and is 20' wide by 24' long. I know that a 4 post would fit nice(height wise) with a 10' ceiling but they are taking a lot of precious space.

Would you recommend against a scissor lift ? and why ?

 

[dropride]

I just bought a house a few months ago with a 22x22 detached garage. Walls are 2x4 as well, i used r-13 insulation and 1/2" drywall and it cost about $300 for the materials.

 

[MustHang]

Thanks for the finishing cost.

 

[rsanter]

you can modify the trusses if you want. you should just get a plan to do so by a qualified engineer. depending on what you have to do, you may be suprised by the cost/effort to do it though

bob

 

[6768rogues]

I would not modify the trusses, either, without a design professional being involved. Another option to explore is cutting rafters of adequate size to replace the trusses, putting them beside the trusses and using collar ties. Then the trusses would be doing nothing and could be hacked up as you please.

 

[Bencrx91]

2x4 is pretty common for garage construction.
I build mine using 2x4. My house (1973) is also made of 2x4.

In my garage I have used :

I used Roxul R13 mineral insulation bats between stufs + a 6mil plastic/foil to cover it up. Apparently helps to radiate heat towward inside.

http://www.benoitcloutier.com/ALBUMS/PUBLIQUE/GarageBen/slides/22.html

I have used on the ceiling the same concept, but with 1 layer of 4" insulation between trusses and another layer perpendicular to it on top of that. Below the trusses is bublewrap R-FOIL insulation then there is 3/4" gap (forence) then gypsium board.

http://www.benoitcloutier.com/ALBUMS/PUBLIQUE/GarageBen/slides/20.html

I can tell you, it's warmer, than in my house ! haha !

I would not mess with the trusses, before contacting a building engineer.

Good luck
Ben

 

[MustHang]

Thanks Ben, I'm near montreal so having you telling me that this insulation works is good news for me. I already saw your build, pretty nice. I will check it back for sure in couple of months since I just sold my current house !

 

[sharpshooter]

Im in the process of buying a house (pending home inspection tommorrow) and it has a stick built 24x24 that was built in the last 5 yrs. Currently it has 1in foam boards as insulation (walls and ceiling), Im looking to pull these down and put in regular roll insulation and then put the foam back up.... I wonder if this will be over kill ???? good luck with what ever you come up with.

 

[Red Green]

Im in the process of buying a house (pending home inspection tommorrow) and it has a stick built 24x24 that was built in the last 5 yrs. Currently it has 1in foam boards as insulation (walls and ceiling), Im looking to pull these down and put in regular roll insulation and then put the foam back up.... I wonder if this will be over kill ???? good luck with what ever you come up with.

IMHO you can never have to much insulation.

 

[boiler7904]

Trusses are modified every day but the modifications have to be designed by a structural engineer (preferably at the company that built the trusses). You'll likely need a permit since it's a structural change and will need to be inspected. All it takes is a misread nailing schedule for a truss mod to go terribly wrong.

The best insulation out right now is probably one of the spray foams. It does a great job of sealing all air leaks in a building which is where other types of insulation are lacking. It acts like a vapor barrier as well. Problem is that it is an expensive option that can't be DIY'd. Blown cellulose is good but tricky in walls unless you have experience with it. Fiberglass is OK as an insulator and it can be done fairly easily. Roxul is probably the most balanced option in terms of efficiency and ease of installation.

For flooring, look around at various garages here and see what catches your eye. You'll also need to know the kinds of work that will be done in this space. For instance, welding and grinding are big no-nos on epoxy. Depending on the work you're planning stained or bare sealed concrete may be your best option.

 

[MustHang]

Thanks, I'll leave the trusses alone and maybe consider a mid-rise lift if I ever get one.

 

[SDBOB]

I was/had been a builder for 25+ years.WE never did modify a truss.However A friend did exactly what you want/for the same reason.The garage is a satnd alone garage. Remember the weight is pushing down and out,controlling these forces should be no problem.We have built homes with 2X12 rafters for cathedral ceilings with no ties/ceiling joist at the wall height.WE also have reenforced old rafters that were sinking or spongy with larger framing lumber.I guess my point don't just modify the truss,. add additional larger structural members will allow you to do waht you want,then modify the truss in the area for the lift.It can take some 'finesse' to get the larger memebers alongside the existing but I've done it. Bob