New Work vs Remodel Electrical Boxes

[forced induction]

So my question is that I have an unfinished garage that I am looking to install many new outlets during my wiring/rewiring. I also plan on covering the walls with OSB as opposed to drywall.

With that being said I am thinking it will be quicker and easier if I just leave my wires hanging in the stud space then come along later after I hang the OSB and mount my boxes with remodel boxes so I wount have to find the exact spot that the nail on box is located and then have to cut the OSB in place like you would normaly do with a dry wall install. It would just seem easier to cut the hole patterened for the rework box, reach in, grab the wires, and mount the box.

I Know the nail on's are more permanant and stronger I'm sure but the ease of installation this way seems like it may be a way to go? What do you guys think??

Thanks for the advice.

 

[madosta]

Interesting.

I have seen drywall put up and then a roto zip run around the box and the sheet finally screwed down. You could also put wax pencil or lipstick on the boxes for a good mark then push your sheet to it.

 

[MeentSS02]

Just FYI, they do make remodel boxes that have screws that catch the studs at a 45* angle, giving you the option to remove/reposition them in the future if deemed necessary. They're called Smart Boxes, and a Google search will net you a couple places that sell them online.

I used this style of box when I added quite a few outlets to my garage, and have been very pleased with them...just as sturdy as a new work box with the ability to mess with them later on if needed. Which, oddly enough, I've needed to do about three times now.

 

['04 Cummins]

Just FYI, they do make remodel boxes that have screws that catch the studs at a 45* angle, giving you the option to remove/reposition them in the future if deemed necessary. They're called Smart Boxes, and a Google search will net you a couple places that sell them online.

I used this style of box when I added quite a few outlets to my garage, and have been very pleased with them...just as sturdy as a new work box with the ability to mess with them later on if needed. Which, oddly enough, I've needed to do about three times now.

+1 on these boxes. I have seen them used before and they are WAY better than the plastic old-work boxes.

 

[bczygan]

Consider what obstruction that insulation may impose. Won't work for foam. Also, you typically run a wire horizontally through studs and leave a loop of wire in the stud space where you want an outlet, so you have enough wire to pull through the box and make connections. You will need to do this in every potential space.

 

[MoonRise]

If you want to install the walls first and then put in 'old-work' boxes, you can do that.

Although I don't know if the electrical inspector is going to be all that happy with you for the multiple rough-in inspections. Inspecting the wire itself in the wall (routed and installed/fastened/supported 'correctly', etc), then inspecting the wire in the old-work boxes (clamped/support to boxes correctly, general workmanship, etc) , and then inspecting the 'final' electrical (terminations and attachments to the outlets/switches/etc, general workmanship, etc).

And IIRC, the old-work boxes are ever so slightly more expensive the the new-work boxes. Which can add up if you are doing lots of boxes.

For the new-work boxes, running a Roto-Zip bit through OSB is not all that much harder to do than running the bit through drywall. Little less dust with the OSB and you have to use the 'general-purpose' bit and not the drywall bit. XB-MP or XB-MPDM2 in or XB-MPGP2 5/32 size, or the SC in 1/8 inch size.

http://www.rotozip.com/en-us/AccessoriesandAttachments/Documents/Accessory Compatibility Chart.pdf

 

[Falcon67]

I used a mix as there were a couple of places where the fit was too tight to mount a regular box. For the rough in, I put a box and outlet on the end of the wire. All I did later was cut the hole in the OSB, then push the box through the hole - didn't even take it apart. You can still staple within 12" and have plenty of wire to wiggle the box through the OSB.

As messy as it was to cut holes in the OSB and the busted off little chunks when the hole was near the edge of the panel, if I ever do another I might drop all the general outlets with old work boxes. What worked best was in the tool room where I placed 4" boxs on studs for the start of a run, then mounted the OSB. Then used a through 4" box on top of the wall box and ran MC cable from that down the wall to other outlets. Easy to install and I can change the whole layout later without having to enter the wall at all.

 

[pfctblu]

code usually wants a wire staple secured to a stud within a few inches of the box. You may have problems with your electrical inspector being cool with your method.

Its not too hard to line up the cuts, just ensure that you level your first sheet on the wall and then use a drywall square to keep you lined up for the hole cuts.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Someone send this guy a measuring tape... please...

 

[wyliesdiesels]

FYI- NM cable(aka Romex) is required to be stapled within 12" of a junction box and @ 4.5' intervals. (NEC 334.30)

Also, cable is required to be secured to the junction box, with an approved clamp. Either metal NM clamp if metal JB or plastic NM clamp if plastic JB.(NEC 314.17B,C) This can be avoided if the NM is stapled within 8" of the box and the box is single gang.(NEC 314.17CX)

In light of this, I'm not sure how easily u would be able to do this if your gonna just leave the cable hanging in the stud bay and cut in holes after putting up OSB. Also, if you're gonna bring the romex down into each stud bay from the top, you're gonna waste a lot of wire. Usually, holes are drilled in the studs and NM is run horizontally!

 

[forced induction]

Thanks for the input guys. I like the idea of mixing it up. I am not really planning on an inspection for these changes. The garage and electrical are existing and were inspected originally. I am making these changes behind the scenes.

I like the smart boxes also. And I may just install some new work boxes and see how they go. I don't have a rotozip but I do have a dremel with a drywall bit and base. I don't have a rotary bit for wood and I don't know if the dremel could handle the osb?

Thanks again guys I appreciate the input.

 

[eljefino]

You can do a plunge cut in the osb with a circular saw then finish it off in the corners with a jigsaw. (or start with a drill and jigsaw the whole thing, double check your work through the drill hole before you open it up all the way.) I like the lipstick on the boxes idea. If you plunge in from behind, where the box "shadow" would be, the rough side of the cutting would be on the inner wall cavity side of the OSB and not visible. Besides, that's what they make (oversized) covers for.